Widening String Through Holes On A Bass Guitar

Hi TB
I've got myself a 35" scale 5 string bass, and I've obtained some damn thick strings so I can play absurdly low tuning. Although, my .174 gauge B string is too thick to fit into my string through holes.

I'm wondering if it is recommended to widen these holes so my string can pass through. I can string this bad boy through my bridge alternatively, but it's too thick to fit in my nut, I need it to go through the straight hole so the tapered part of the string fits into the nut snugly.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi TB
I've got myself a 35" scale 5 string bass, and I've obtained some damn thick strings so I can play absurdly low tuning. Although, my .174 gauge B string is too thick to fit into my string through holes.

I'm wondering if it is recommended to widen these holes so my string can pass through. I can string this bad boy through my bridge alternatively, but it's too thick to fit in my nut, I need it to go through the straight hole so the tapered part of the string fits into the nut snugly.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If the tapered part of the string is in the nut the string will not play in tune. The taper has to be between the edge of the nut and the tuner.

File out the nut.
 
.174 B-string. Wow...

I have no experience with such high gauges, but I do know that even at more conventional .125-.130 these strings are hard to bend over the bridge at the angles required by the through-body mounting, so mounting through the back of the bridge may actually make the procedure easier. OTOH, I'm not sure many bridges actually have holes that wide, so some hacking may also be required at the bridge...
 
I can string this bad boy through my bridge alternatively, but it's too thick to fit in my nut, I need it to go through the straight hole so the tapered part of the string fits into the nut snugly.

Don't modify your ferrules or your bridge. That's a big mistake. Cut a bigger slot in your nut. Problem solved. Nuts are meant to be replaced now and then so that's where you should make the modification.
 
I can string this bad boy through my bridge alternatively
You should, in order that the tapered section sits on the bridge. It will also mean less or no bridge modification is needed.
Huge strings do not like going through sharp bends so you should never string huge gauges through the body, the break angle over the saddle becomes too sharp.
Kalium make it clear that you cannot string their huge strings through the body.
I need it to go through the straight hole so the tapered part of the string fits into the nut snugly.
As above ... don't. This will cause fret buzz problems and affect intonation. The full gauge should always sit on the nut.
Filing a nut slot wider is easy, just be very careful to not deepen the slot.
lz4005 is correct.
Have you considered what those 'damn thick' strings are going to do to your neck?
There's no issue, the .174 is probably for tuning to roughly F# a fourth below B, at that pitch it has no more tension than a typical B string. Tension depends on what pitch you tune to, not just gauge.
 
There's no issue, the .174 is probably for tuning to roughly F# a fourth below B, at that pitch it has no more tension than a typical B string. Tension depends on what pitch you tune to, not just gauge.
There's the problem. Because of a significantly greater mass, at the same tension as the B string, the F# is going to feel even floppier that a regular B string.
 
There's the problem. Because of a significantly greater mass, at the same tension as the B string, the F# is going to feel even floppier that a regular B string.
A little more floppy yes, so some people prefer a little more tension for F#, but they don't need more tension than the typical A or D.
Large gauge, high tension F# strings are very rarely used because the disadvantages of the large gauge outweigh the benefits of a high tension.
Almost all F# strings available are around .175 maximum which has similar tension to a .130 B.