Winter Build Off 2018 - WalnutKarma Bass

b3e

Sep 5, 2017
323
758
4,861
Warsaw, Poland
I'm late in and don't know if I manage to finish on time, but.. lets do this! :) I allready gave up twice, cause I couldn't find the right wood. And a big "Thank You!" here for @Scoops for motivating me and even offering a billet off of his walnut pile :)

This is my pile of wood, and so far I'm still waiting for one piece. Here you will find American Black Walnut (body), European Walnut (neck & fretboard), African Walnut (neck, still waiting) - oh yeah let's get crazy ;) The top and headstock veneer will be spalted maple, which should not override the percentage rule. Since I'm focused on the singlecut design currently, I just cannot think of anything else, therefore it will be the singlecut. Since everything in the end came my way - I'll call this one the WalnutKarma Bass.

walnut.jpg
 
Love spalted maple. We lost a big limb from our maple a few years ago, I didn't realize it was spalted until most of it was burned off :(

Sorry to hear that.. could have been beautiful inside! I'm working with spalted maple for the first time, so far it planes just fine, but I can see there can be problems with this material, when you would approach it with tools that are not razor sharp.

I spent some time deciding how to glue the top together. Since my power supply is working again, and I can be back on the computer (yeah, sorry phone! ;) ) I did some quick photoshop mockups. The matching can be done in so many different ways, there are of course the simple bookmatched versions:

wb---01---bookmatched.jpg

wb---02---bookmatched.jpg


The flip side doesn't match at all and makes no sense, but I can flip one board to have another few options. It reverses the grain, but I can handle it with a sharp plane at an angle. Here are the next versions to choose from. I have my favourite I guess.. or two.. at this point. Or three ;)

wb---03---non-bookmatched.jpg

wb---04---non-bookmatched.jpg

wb---05---non-bookmatched.jpg

wb---06---non-bookmatched.jpg


The fingerboard, cuts, bridge and pickup are just quick mocks, I will still have to figure what hardware and pickups to go with, but @mapleglo got me thinking about those oval pickups, so I wanted to try how they would look. Anyway, I'm gonna give it a day, because I cannot look at those any longer for now, cause everything swirls together :)
 
As I was helping my brother to prepare the wood for building bee hives, I didn't have much time to spend on the build yet, so just a quick update. The missing piece of the puzzle - African walnut (aka Bodo, Boire) just arrived. Can't wait for cutting up that bad boy ;)

LRM_EXPORT_20180115_121430.jpg


I also matched the top and glued it up and moved on with prepping the board for the body, which.. ended up to be a little disastrous. But that will be covered in the next episode :))

LRM_EXPORT_20180115_121651.jpg
 
As I was helping my brother to prepare the wood for building bee hives, I didn't have much time to spend on the build yet, so just a quick update. The missing piece of the puzzle - African walnut (aka Bodo, Boire) just arrived. Can't wait for cutting up that bad boy ;)

View attachment 2876296

I also matched the top and glued it up and moved on with prepping the board for the body, which.. ended up to be a little disastrous. But that will be covered in the next episode :))

View attachment 2876297

#6
 
As promised, this will be the story about a perfect walnut billet and how it nearly got destroyed by an unskilled craftsman ;) I finally found and ordered a piece of walnut, that was the perfect length (90cm) and width (18cm) to cut out two pieces and join them into one body. But.. as the piece was 5.2 cm thick, I had the crazy idea to resaw it. I was aiming for a board of around 2.3 to 2.5cm thick for this build, as the final thickness of the top will be 1cm, so this would add to 3.5cm, which proved to be perfect in the prototype. So I carefully took out a tiny twist using my jack plane and winding sticks and dimensioned the wood blank. The plained grain showed up to be a very calm and nice pattern:

IMG_20180112_131558-01.jpeg

IMG_20180112_132213-01.jpeg


The board chipped at one corner, which I figured is not a problem at all, since it was to be cut of probably. Next I marked 2.5cm from the flat face around the board adding a couple of mils extra to account for removing the saw marks and started resawing the board. I took on with one of the japanese saws. Quickly it proved, that the two boards clench around the blade and the further I was the more wedges I had to use to give the blade some space. Ok, "wood will release tension when cut" I told myself and moved on. Somewhere in 1/3rd of the board I switched to my regular handsaw and noticed, that even I am through the board from one side, I actually am not through the board when I flip it. That meant, my saw must have gone awry and I have probably two cuts parallel to each other.

IMG_20180112_154853-01.jpeg

IMG_20180112_192144-01.jpeg

It actually looked pretty clean from the outside, but proved - it was not. I tried to plane it out a little, but the other cut went deep inside, being just a few millimeters away from the other one, but I would loose probably 5 millimeters trying to plane it out clean and would end up with a board just 20mm thick - not good enough. Remember the 65% walnut rule? right. :)

I decided to glue up the blade channel and try to make it work with the board anyway. You can see how it looked with the glue and clamps:

IMG_20180113_161231-01.jpeg

IMG_20180113_162058-01.jpeg


It's about fixing mistakes, right? So If I could flatten it enough and glue on the top, so that the mistakes would disappear, I should still be fine. So I spend the next few days figuring out how to cut and join the right edge, so the mistakes go inside the body. Remember the chipped piece of the board? And another factor, that it grabbed the saw while cutting - yes it cupped additionally.

In the end I found an edge that would work, joined the board, planed it as flat as I think is necessary from the top and the back, accounting for all the cutouts and there it is, from the back, and the front:

IMG_20180118_173431-01.jpeg

IMG_20180118_173523-01.jpeg


The two error areas are in the control cavity, so this one might disappear and in the upper waist, which is a exposed point, but I think, I can patch it still. The surface is flat besides and the top will have a neat joint, you can see how it meats the template

IMG_20180118_173558-01.jpeg

IMG_20180118_173612-01.jpeg

As you can see the upper error area will still need some attention, but I can definitely move on with it. I've learned a lot in this round :) On the weekend I will be probably able to cut the wood for the neck and meanwhile, I will admire all the other builds around. Cheers! :)
 
Wow, that’s tough; proves that “triumph over adversity” thing though. :thumbsup:

Beautiful grain on that board. Looking forward to this one!
 
  • Like
Reactions: b3e
I breathed a sight of relief myself, seeing that it will work out. No gray hair yet! ;) What I was worried about the most was, that I damaged such a nice piece of wood. So happy it could be recovered. I learned actually simple things, like using the twist for my advantage or joining the board in a way, that gave me the best flat surface on top, so I could remove just a tiny bit of corners and do some smoothing passes to achieve a good surface. What surprises me is, that the final thickness is 23.5-24mm, which is about perfect.

I may go with the suggestion of @postalflunkie of filling the gap with ca and dust, but if it will be over 2 millimeters, I'll probably make a patch of walnut with matching grain out of scrap. I'd like to have a crisp line around the body :)

Thank you everyone for the kind words and advice! :)

@Scoops, I was actually going to suggest that we do that, are you reading my mind?:)
 
Moving on, slowly but steady. Spend some time during the weekend preparing the African walnut blank for cutting. Since we were cutting some more basswood for the bee hives with my brother I used the occasion to cut some stripes on his portable saw. I planed one side and one edge square to it and moved on with cutting some pieces for the laminate. African walnut is probably one of the most difficult woods I've worked with so far. It has a lot of interlocking grain and you get tear out even with the sharpest tools. Just look at this board:
IMG_20180120_120945-01.jpeg


We had also a nice fire outside to end the day :))

IMG_20180120_142950-01.jpeg


Later this week I managed to plain everything flat for lamination with a lot of patience. I decided to go with additional Ash stripes, so the whole neck is a sandwich of African walnut on the sides, European walnut in the center and Ash stripes. After gluing everything together I spend another few hours of fine planing the blank before I went on with gluing on the wings of the headstock.

IMG_20180123_181723-01.jpeg

IMG_20180123_181740-01.jpeg

IMG_20180123_191558.jpg


You can still see some tear out left in the last picture, but I'll get to it in the last planing session just before gluing on the fretboard. The best approach in found is to go with very shallow passes, taking of really hair thin material of the neck and going by a 45 degree angle. The plane must be super sharp. I spent around 1.5 hours planing this blank from raw to square and usable. Phew:))

Wings are also ready and being glued on, and that's it for today. Walnut saga continues
IMG_20180123_191528-01.jpeg

IMG_20180123_191524-01.jpeg
 
Last edited: