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http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Files/3-Corner_Fret_Dressing_Files.html See the video here as well. You can get by for a lot less money than what they ask for these files sold as for fret work.
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Onlin..._fret_ends_that_stick_out_in_dry_weather.html
Or an inexpensive file, (one, or two files), or a set from the hardware store like any of these: miniature file set - Google Search. and some masking tape will work too.
Files with handles, like these: 12 Piece Mini Metal/Diamond File Set - Garrett Wade help prevent cramping of the hand.
Diamond files work well for fret work.
Start with a coarse cut, and finish with a fine cut file.
A file with smooth, also called "safe" edges will help you avoid damaging the wood, if you can find one.
There are different "cut" and "pattern" types of files. Hand File Identification - The Tool Corner Swiss pattern files are probably better than American pattern files for fret work. Diamond files eliminate the task of choosing a cut, and pattern type.
Go slow, take your time. Do it in good lighting, and if you use a head-worn magnifying lens of some sort, you will be able to see how close you are getting to the wood without going too far. If you can remove the neck, or at least brace the instrument with the work oriented upward so you can see what you are doing, and find a spot to brace your hand or forearm so as to steady it and maintain better control, you should be able to get very good results.
Finally, polish with micro-mesh pads to get professional shiney looking, and smooth feeling results.
http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Onlin..._fret_ends_that_stick_out_in_dry_weather.html
Or an inexpensive file, (one, or two files), or a set from the hardware store like any of these: miniature file set - Google Search. and some masking tape will work too.
Files with handles, like these: 12 Piece Mini Metal/Diamond File Set - Garrett Wade help prevent cramping of the hand.
Diamond files work well for fret work.
Start with a coarse cut, and finish with a fine cut file.
A file with smooth, also called "safe" edges will help you avoid damaging the wood, if you can find one.
There are different "cut" and "pattern" types of files. Hand File Identification - The Tool Corner Swiss pattern files are probably better than American pattern files for fret work. Diamond files eliminate the task of choosing a cut, and pattern type.
Go slow, take your time. Do it in good lighting, and if you use a head-worn magnifying lens of some sort, you will be able to see how close you are getting to the wood without going too far. If you can remove the neck, or at least brace the instrument with the work oriented upward so you can see what you are doing, and find a spot to brace your hand or forearm so as to steady it and maintain better control, you should be able to get very good results.
Finally, polish with micro-mesh pads to get professional shiney looking, and smooth feeling results.
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- Oct 7, 2000
- 18,557
- 38,701
- 5,316
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Musicman basses
If smooth PB works on your bass in the summer with no problems (I like the crunchy kind on mine), but you're having problems with Tang in the winter I suggest this:
Mix the Tang with just a little bit of water, dip a paper towel in, and spread it on your strings and frets like that. Just pouring the orange powder on won't work, nor will spilling it's diluted as per the directions on the label.
It worked for the astronauts when they took their guitars in Apollo 9.
It will work for you.
I think I may have to re-read the OP. Still... half asleep. Apologies.
Mix the Tang with just a little bit of water, dip a paper towel in, and spread it on your strings and frets like that. Just pouring the orange powder on won't work, nor will spilling it's diluted as per the directions on the label.
It worked for the astronauts when they took their guitars in Apollo 9.
It will work for you.
I think I may have to re-read the OP. Still... half asleep. Apologies.
You need a file like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IE431K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a pretty fine file which will allow you to file down the fret ends without filing through the rosewood. The trick is to file the ends of the frets, and stop as soon as you see the tiniest bit of rosewood sawdust. Not too big of a deal with rosewood (as opposed to maple, which typically has a finish), as you can just coat any bare spots with the same oil you'd use to maintain the rosewood finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IE431K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's a pretty fine file which will allow you to file down the fret ends without filing through the rosewood. The trick is to file the ends of the frets, and stop as soon as you see the tiniest bit of rosewood sawdust. Not too big of a deal with rosewood (as opposed to maple, which typically has a finish), as you can just coat any bare spots with the same oil you'd use to maintain the rosewood finish.
My Fender Strat had the same issue when I bought it. I got a small triangular file, masked the area around the fret, and gently filed the end down. The file I got has a smaller surface and was easier to handle. Good luck.
- Oct 7, 2000
- 18,557
- 38,701
- 5,316
- Disclosures
- Endorsing artist: Musicman basses
I like the idea of starting with a wide file, but once I am flush with the wood, I finish with a narrow file, especially on a maple fret board. I use a few different shaped files. I remove the sharp edge on the profile of the fret end that is above the fret board by rounding it slightly. Then, I polish all the surfaces of the fret with micro-mesh sheets.
Sheets - Products by Type -MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC
I wrap it around something the width of the fret end to create a narrow sanding block to polish the ends.
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Editing the OP isnt fair! My response isn’t fun anymore!
Still funny just now in that semi crazy needs more coffee kind of way
The filing and masking as mentioned above is the correct way to do it.
Another way, which is not technically correct at all, is to take a 9v battery or a screwdriver with a round shaft and rub that up and down the edges of the neck to blunt the sharp fret ends. Depending on how aggressive you get with it, it can also give the edges of the board a more rounded, broken in feel.
Say what? Could you describe this process in more detail, because I'm not imagining how that would work.
It's an old guitar player trick for getting rounded fretboard edges. You rub any smooth piece of metal up and down the edge of the neck, from nut to body, until everything smooths out. Minor fret sprout included.
Like I said, it's technically the wrong thing to do, but it works.
I’ve seen the same “rolled edge” trick done with a screwdriver shaft. I used the Stewmac fret shields on new frets for filing down the tangs after rough beveling, worked well and protected the board. Should be a one time job.
With Tang and some Space Food Sticks, you got yourself a hearty Space-Age Meal.
P.S.
Anybody who remembers Space Food Sticks is officially an old fart like me.
DiabolusInMusic
Functionless Art is Merely Tolerated Vandalism
If you mask the neck with tape, you will only file to the tape. You do not want to use tape but I would also not recommend learning to do this on an instrument you love.
Get a humidifier & keep the RH 40-50% where your bass is & you're golden.
I use tape. I file with a more aggressive file until the tape starts to be abraded away. Then I switch to a narrower, finer file, and take more care to avoid removing material from the wood. I think this method allows me to work faster with less risk of over-filing.
It just occurred to me that maybe I could use a thinner tape than masking tape for this, like cellophane, or packing tape that would allow me to get closer before switching to a finer, (slower) file.
I have found that instruments that I paid fairly high prices for have never required any fret end work, while my lower cost, (yet still nice) instruments have needed this one-time improvement, even when the frets did not stick out initially. I don't have a problem with this at all, and expect to do a little refinement on lower cost instruments.
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