Would lowering a too high nut allow for overall lower string action?

[NoiseNinja]

I am quite certain that the nut slots in the nut on my main bass are cut too high, quite a bit even, and when I press down the low E string on the first fret down to a more reasonable height I can see this also affects the string action at the 12th fret (and otherwise as you go down the neck), as in it decreases slightly.

So my thought is that if I lowered the nut to the correct height it would also mean that I could decrease the string action slightly, or in other words I should be able to keep the saddles just how they are now in terms of height and still don't get any fret buzz, as is the case now, meaning that as an effect of lowering the nut the overall lowest possible string action without buzz actually will decreased slightly as well.

Or would lowering the nut to correct height just mean that I would have to adjust the saddles accordingly higher to match the current action measured at 12th fret (with the too high nut), in other words, the string action would only really get lower by the first few frets than currently is the case as an effect of the lower nut, but otherwise all that really changes is that the strings will have a slightly steeper upwards angle towards the bridge?

The fact that you can use a capo on the first fret without raising the string action at the bridge without any additional fret buzz I would think ought to be the proof that my first assumption indeed would be true, but I'd still like to have this confirmed.


Edit!!! :

Found the answer myself, and it is :

Yes! : Would lowering a too high nut allow for overall lower string action?


And then comes the other question, as the strings actually sit perfectly fine in the current nut slots, but the nut is just being too high in relation to the first fret/fretboard, could I just sand some height off the nut at the bottom of it as a legit fix?

 

[202dy]

The height of the string over the first fret is dictated by the depth of the slot. Once the string is stopped at the first fret (or above) the nut is out of the equation.

 

[NoiseNinja]

The height of the string over the first fret is dictated by the depth of the slot. Once the string is stopped at the first fret (or above) the nut is out of the equation.

I appreciate that you are trying to help but I don't think you understood my question, try reading my whole OP post again if you still want to help.

Or perhaps I didn't understand your answer, in that case could you please rephrase it in a way so that it relates directly to my main question?

I mean the nut height does effect the overall string action for sure and not just the string action at the 1st fret, given of course the bridge and saddles otherwise remains the same (look at the first sentence of my OP for proof of that).

If I fret the low E string at for instance the 5th fret after the nut has been lowered and leave the saddles the same height as they are currently I will have to apply less force, because the string will be a little closer to the 5th fret because of the lowered nut, however would that mean that I can most likely keep my saddle setup exactly as it is now and just lower the nut without any fret buzz, as is the case now with the higher nut, and therefor slightly higher overall string action?

 

[JimmyM]

I appreciate that you are trying to help but I don't think you understood my question, try reading my whole OP post again if you still want to help.

(or maybe I didn't understand your answer, in that case could you please rephrase it in a way so that it relates directly to my main question?)

If I fret the low E string for instance 5th fret after the nut has been lowered and leave the saddles as they are now I will have to apply less force, because the string sill be a little closer to the first fret, however would that mean that I can most likely keep my saddle setup and just lower the nut without any fret buzz, as is the case now with the higher nut, and therefor slightly higher overall string action?

You’re asking that if you shave the nut down a little, that means the pressure needed for you to push down on the 12th fret from open would be slightly decreased. Does it matter a hill of beans?My guess is probably not. It will definitely make fretting lower frets easier though. Again, enough to make a difference in a hill of beans? Probably on the first or second frets. Pass that I Expect diminishing returns

 

[NoiseNinja]

You’re asking that if you shave the nut down a little, that means the pressure needed for you to push down on the 12th fret from open would be slightly decreased. Does it matter a hill of beans?My guess is probably not. It will definitely make fretting lower frets easier though.

I am quite certain that the nut slots in the nut on my main bass are cut too high, quite a bit even, and when I press down the low E string on the first fret down to a more reasonable height [edit: as in where the nut should have been cut] I can see this also affects the string action at the 12th fret (and otherwise as you go down the neck), as in it decreases slightly [edit: but still quite noticeable].

My personal experience is that even rather minor changes in string action can have a huge and even quite essential influence on how an instrument feels to play.

You know, never mind, I found out myself, and the answer is: Yes!

I simply put a capo on the first fret, and as a result I overall lowered the string action and made it slightly easier to fret/play all down the neck, and without any fret buzz.

 

[96tbird]

To answer your question, yes you can shave off the bottom of the nut.

But it’s a bad plan; too difficult to be accurate on each slot.

It’s easier to just pop the string out of the nut and file the slot, pop the string back in and check it.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Regardless of the effect on the action at the 12th fret, if the nut slots are too high then that should be corrected. If the existing slots match the fretboard radius already and are all too high by the same amount then, yes, you could carefully take material off of the bottom of the nut until everything is good. IME, the slots are seldom all off by the same amount so some individual adjustment will be required.

Lowering the nut slots will have some effect on the string action but isn’t the only factor involved in wether or not you’ll be able to have lower action further up the neck. Relief, fretwork and a few other factors will also be involved.

 

[NoiseNinja]

To answer your question, yes you can shave off the bottom of the nut.

But it’s a bad plan; too difficult to be accurate on each slot.

It’s easier to just pop the string out of the nut and file the slot, pop the string back in and check it.

Thanks.

But yeah, that did occur to me when I thought it through again a bit after I posted my last post in this thread, it would not take into account how the individual slots actually are cut.

I don't trust my own abilities at getting it right though, so just think I will take it to a local music shop with a guitar workshop and have the guitar technician there do it, as I understand it isn't the most expensive procedure to have done.

Regardless of the effect on the action at the 12th fret, if the nut slots are too high then that should be corrected. If the existing slots match the fretboard radius already and are all too high by the same amount then, yes, you could carefully take material off of the bottom of the nut until everything is good. IME, the slots are seldom all off by the same amount so some individual adjustment will be required.

Lowering the nut slots will have some effect on the string action but isn’t the only factor involved in wether or not you’ll be able to have lower action further up the neck. Relief, fretwork and a few other factors will also be involved.

Yeah, as you can see above I didn't think of that initially.

Though my test, as I mentioned, with actually placing a capo on the first fret and then checking how the bass played and that it had no fret buzz when the strings were fretted going all the way up and down the entire fretboard length ought to be a safe fool proof way to say that in this case the answer would indeed be a yes.

 

[stuntbass77]

No, do not shave the bottom of the nut. You could accidentally shave it uneven and you want it to sit perfectly flat. You can get dremel bits for cheap on eBay and they work for a cheap mans nut slotting tool. They come in like a set of 20 or so. I use them by hand and not with the dremel. Getting the strings right at the nut will help with your overall action, best of luck !

 

[stuntbass77]

 

[stuntbass77]

Also, buy a cheap caliper as it will help you choose the right bit that is closest to the size you need. You will be surprised how much other things you will use the calipers for, trust me. All total will cost less than a set of stew Mac nut files. They are great but really expensive and I get by just find on what I have. If you filled to low you can use the “baking soda and super glue” trick to file the nut back in and re-file the slot. Just make sure to use the “water thin” super glue. Do not use the regular stuff you find at menards. You can use plastic shavings or if you have a bone it you can use bone dusk and the super glue. I have used all three in the past and works great. I put a bone but it me MIA jazz and can’t say a hear a difference but it was a fun project and turned out well.

 

[James Collins]

Depending on how much you need to adjust the nut, it might be better to shave the bottom of the nut than file the nut slots. If you need half the nut gone, then the bottom needs filed.

It is just difficult to fine tune the change filing the bottom compared to the top.

Taking the guitar to a guitar store that services guitars is not expensive to have the nut setup. I think it runs 10s of dollars.