1959 Precision Bass(es) conundrum

[magnaton]

Two vintage 1959 P basses have become available to me for purchase from a private seller. While I'd obviously love to buy both, that's not something I can entertain right now (and owning one would be special enough!)

Had an incredible time putting them through their paces and they're unique and fun in their own way so having an impossible time choosing.

Trying to get a sense from the collective wisdom here which is the way to go. They're available to me for the same price. Both 3TSB, anodized guard, maple neck, tweed case and 2-59 neck date. Wanted to call out some key differences below. Which way would you go and why?

Bass 1:
Refret and new nut. Neck finish, while original, feels quite thick compared to Bass 2. More tacky to slide up and down almost like a newer P, which I don't love.

Bass 2:
Original frets and nut. Neck much smoother and more worn so really feels great like a vintage P should. From finish transfer marks where neck and body join (you know, how some body paint lands up on the neck butt) it seems like this neck is not original to the body. So at worst *possibly* a period correct neck swap.

Help me please! Carrots assumed to be the right option so left out of the polls

 

[J_Bass]

No pics, no bass, you know the rule.


If I liked both the same way, and they sounded both great, I would pick the one that could be most valuable in the future.

 

[5StringBlues]

rhubarb

 

[Goatrope]

If for me, bass 2, but I’d want to know facts about that neck pedigree. May be a bargaining chip if they don’t have info. I’m no collector/investor, so how it plays is my priority.

 

[FenderP]

I had a mixed '63/'66 P at one point.Part of the point of the design is that you could swap necks.

If you're buying it as a player not a museum piece, get the one that feels better in your hands.

That said, I don't think an era appropriate neck swap is going to affect the price much, if any.

 

[electracoyote]

Well, I'd like to know fret/nut condition on Bass 2, but even if the nut is good and there is 70% or more left on the frets, the possibility of a non-original or period-correct neck concerns me.

With what I know, Bass 1 gets the nod, and do some gentle treatment on the back of the neck until it's not so sticky for you.

 

[magnaton]

Thanks all! Helpful so far

No pics, no bass, you know the rule.

I know ugh sorry. Seller asked for discretion but promise NBD and tons of pics after I make the purchase.

Well, I'd like to know fret/nut condition on Bass 2, but even if the nut is good and there is 70% or more left on the frets, the possibility of a non-original or period-correct neck concerns me.

Fret and nut condition of Bass 2 is probably at around 60%. Maybe a bit less but I play flats so likely not gonna be an issue.

 

[elgranluis]

I’d go for number 1. You don’t need To worry about a future refret. If the finish is indeed original, then your personal opinion of what it should feel like is irrelevant.

I’ve ever only owned one 58-59 P. It was a wonderful bass. But , there is nothing that The 59 bass was better at than a modern production (cv or CS squier), except for mojo.

keep in mind that these basses were made in a workshop , not anything close to a modern factory.

If you can afford either one , go for the one that clicks with you. If you have to stretch your budget to buy either one , buy the one with the highest possible resale value.

 

[MtManiac]

I voted #2 because:
- there isn’t a carrots option. I mean, they’re both ‘59 P basses.
- you like the feel of the neck better, and for me that’s always the weightiest factor. But maybe a little light sanding on the neck of bass #1 wouldn’t be a big deal? Anyway, I like a satin or even bare wood feel on the back of a neck. It’s really the only thing I like about relic’ed basses.

 

[Bob_Ross]

The tacky neck finish of Bass 1 is easily fixed without jeopardizing the instrument's value, whereas the questionable pedigree of Bass 2's neck would be a red flag for me.

 

[Thumper]

FOR ME, at the end of the day it's always about feel and weight. The best feeling and lightest would go home with me

 

[MultiScaleMale]

I'd go with #1 and get some steel wool out for the neck

 

[sonojono]

 

[Rabidhamster]

Two vintage 1959 P basses have become available to me for purchase from a private seller. While I'd obviously love to buy both, that's not something I can entertain right now (and owning one would be special enough!)

Had an incredible time putting them through their paces and they're unique and fun in their own way so having an impossible time choosing.

Trying to get a sense from the collective wisdom here which is the way to go. They're available to me for the same price. Both 3TSB, anodized guard, maple neck, tweed case and 2-59 neck date. Wanted to call out some key differences below. Which way would you go and why?

Bass 1:
Refret and new nut. Neck finish, while original, feels quite thick compared to Bass 2. More tacky to slide up and down almost like a newer P, which I don't love.

Bass 2:
Original frets and nut. Neck much smoother and more worn so really feels great like a vintage P should. From finish transfer marks where neck and body join (you know, how some body paint lands up on the neck butt) it seems like this neck is not original to the body. So at worst *possibly* a period correct neck swap.

Help me please! Carrots assumed to be the right option so left out of the polls

I didn’t vote and almost didn’t post because I don’t care either way, but are you playing it or collecting it?
Your description sounds like you preferred playing 2. But I don’t know what your goal is in buying either of these two basses. Perhaps identifying that will help you narrow it down.

 

[BurningSkies]

Buy them both.

 

[Killing Floor]

I voted 1 because no pics and also because a played bass of that age isn’t devalued with frets or a nut or a pot any more than replacing strings.
Since no pics I also vote dropping in an EMG pickup and all new black Hipshot hardware just to poke the TB bear. That would be a funny thread.

 

[BurningSkies]

Are we sure that the neck on bass #1 isn't an overspray or refin. If the finish is thick and still 'sticky' but it's had enough play to need new frets and a new nut, I'd be suspicious.

 

[BurningSkies]

I voted 1 because no pics and also because a played bass of that age isn’t devalued with frets or a nut or a pot any more than replacing strings.
Since no pics I also vote dropping in an EMG pickup and all new black Hipshot hardware just to poke the TB bear. That would be a funny thread.

Routed for a Kahler bass trem.

 

[Stewie]

#1 Lemon Pledge on the back of the neck will clean it AND make it an easy slide. Repeat every couple weeks or as necessary,

 

[shufflebass123]

I would go with #2. Why do you think it's a period correct neck swap? Therer's an easy way to find out if that's the case:

1. Check the date stamp or pencil mark on the neck itself. I'm assuming there are pics. If there aren't, this guy is up to something and it's a scam. That's true for both of these.

2. Check the dates on the Pots. The months don't have to match up exactly and often times don't. But if they match up within a few months, it's real. If they're off by 6 months to a year, it likely isn't.