Good luck on your project and I get where you're coming from as far as learning repair.
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$25 Beater Bass...help me bring them back to life!
- Thread starter lauregami
- Start date
Good luck on your project and I get where you're coming from as far as learning repair.
Thank you all again for your support. The Dweezil Zappa video is so great. Love the grace with which he takes the "modifications" the airline made. My repair certainly isn't as bad as that one. I doubt I'll need to install splines or anything like that.
Thank you for the resources that you all have provided, too. I have sought out a copy of the Erlewine book, and Frets.com has proven to be a blessing!! I found a repair journal for a crack that looks just like a worse version of the crack in this neck. This is going to be the main "guide" I go by. But I don't think I'll have access to hide glue, so I will buy my own wood glue. I don't own a vehicle to leave my bass in, and I keep it away from open windows, so I don't see the potential expansion of the glue as a problem. If I can get hide glue I will use it.
I'm sort of planning in my head how I'm going to work on the neck. My bestie's dad is a carpenter so I'm going to ask if I can use his shop. I don't expect to use any power tools. I need to remove the tuners and get some padded cauls on either side. Ideally the padding will match the contour of the neck, but I may have to work some scrap to match it. A flat caul on the top with padding would also be ideal.
...am I understanding what a "caul" is correctly? It sounds like it's a piece of wood that you use to prevent damage from the clamp to the instrument.
I've started inspecting the Ibanez, too, the guts of which will go into this P-Bass. The two pieces of the pickup are in the opposite place, as you can see in the picture below, but my understanding is that that these are two separate pieces and can be switched around. I will need to get soldering tools to handle this, since I don't know how I'm gonna take it all out with the wires intact. The good news is: I did check and the knobs fit on the p-bass like a dream! (I did end up just de-tensioning the strings instead of removing them entirely, though. I will remove them soon as I need to get the tuners swapped out.)
I have NEVER done any electrical work before so does anyone have any recommendations for safety? I won't have the electronics plugged in, of course. But I'm going to try and use the wiring from the broken p-pickup on the white bass as a guideline for how to do the wiring. Should I pick up some fresh wire while I'm at it? Safety goggles?
It sounds like the main expenses to me will be new strings and possibly some shielding material for inside the bass. I think I can harvest most of this stuff from my Ibanez: the pickup, the knobs, and the tuners. Maybe even the strings...but I'd have the same problem of using long-scale strings on a short scale bass that I did with my Jaguar. They work fine but have a hard time holding their tune. (Did I mention this is a short scale bass?)
Last, any detectives know anything about what this bass might be just from the body and make? Any way for me to find out? Like I said, it has no branding and the serial sticker was taken off. I'm sure it's an old copy of a copy or something. But I can't wait to get them working again.
Thank you all for your continued guidance!!
Thank you for the resources that you all have provided, too. I have sought out a copy of the Erlewine book, and Frets.com has proven to be a blessing!! I found a repair journal for a crack that looks just like a worse version of the crack in this neck. This is going to be the main "guide" I go by. But I don't think I'll have access to hide glue, so I will buy my own wood glue. I don't own a vehicle to leave my bass in, and I keep it away from open windows, so I don't see the potential expansion of the glue as a problem. If I can get hide glue I will use it.
I'm sort of planning in my head how I'm going to work on the neck. My bestie's dad is a carpenter so I'm going to ask if I can use his shop. I don't expect to use any power tools. I need to remove the tuners and get some padded cauls on either side. Ideally the padding will match the contour of the neck, but I may have to work some scrap to match it. A flat caul on the top with padding would also be ideal.
...am I understanding what a "caul" is correctly? It sounds like it's a piece of wood that you use to prevent damage from the clamp to the instrument.
I've started inspecting the Ibanez, too, the guts of which will go into this P-Bass. The two pieces of the pickup are in the opposite place, as you can see in the picture below, but my understanding is that that these are two separate pieces and can be switched around. I will need to get soldering tools to handle this, since I don't know how I'm gonna take it all out with the wires intact. The good news is: I did check and the knobs fit on the p-bass like a dream! (I did end up just de-tensioning the strings instead of removing them entirely, though. I will remove them soon as I need to get the tuners swapped out.)
I have NEVER done any electrical work before so does anyone have any recommendations for safety? I won't have the electronics plugged in, of course. But I'm going to try and use the wiring from the broken p-pickup on the white bass as a guideline for how to do the wiring. Should I pick up some fresh wire while I'm at it? Safety goggles?
It sounds like the main expenses to me will be new strings and possibly some shielding material for inside the bass. I think I can harvest most of this stuff from my Ibanez: the pickup, the knobs, and the tuners. Maybe even the strings...but I'd have the same problem of using long-scale strings on a short scale bass that I did with my Jaguar. They work fine but have a hard time holding their tune. (Did I mention this is a short scale bass?)
Last, any detectives know anything about what this bass might be just from the body and make? Any way for me to find out? Like I said, it has no branding and the serial sticker was taken off. I'm sure it's an old copy of a copy or something. But I can't wait to get them working again.
Thank you all for your continued guidance!!
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Cauls are indeed padded blocks that are placed between the work piece and the clamp. It does double duty, directing (or re-directing as in this case) the force of the clamps and protecting the work. The better they fit, the better they work. Most of the time and energy in a project like this goes into making the cauls. Gluing is easy. Most of the time.
Hide glue is used warm. That means either purchasing, borrowing, or cobbling together a glue pot. A baby food jar in a pot of water used like a double boiler works in a pinch.
Another thing to know about hide glue is that the open time is very short. Sometimes as little as thirty seconds before the clamps need to be applied. To compare, yellow glue (Titebond) is five minutes and white glue (Elmer's) is seven minutes. Making sure the parts are warmer than room temperature helps, but it doesn't double the amount of time you have. Make several dry runs aligning the parts, putting the cauls in place, and applying the clamps. Time yourself. It's that critical.
Dry runs are a good idea no matter what glue you choose.
As far as make and model go, St. Louis Music marketed that design under it's Memphis label in the nineties. Several other distributors sold similar or identical instruments during that time period.
Hide glue is used warm. That means either purchasing, borrowing, or cobbling together a glue pot. A baby food jar in a pot of water used like a double boiler works in a pinch.
Another thing to know about hide glue is that the open time is very short. Sometimes as little as thirty seconds before the clamps need to be applied. To compare, yellow glue (Titebond) is five minutes and white glue (Elmer's) is seven minutes. Making sure the parts are warmer than room temperature helps, but it doesn't double the amount of time you have. Make several dry runs aligning the parts, putting the cauls in place, and applying the clamps. Time yourself. It's that critical.
Dry runs are a good idea no matter what glue you choose.
As far as make and model go, St. Louis Music marketed that design under it's Memphis label in the nineties. Several other distributors sold similar or identical instruments during that time period.
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Yeah, from my research it looked like I would have to make several dry runs to make sure everything is set up right. I will ask the person who has the shop if they have any hide glue. If not I think I may just pick some up. They sell it on StewMac and I was needing to pick up a couple things from there anyway, I think. I will remember to keep the glue in hot water, though.
I can use a flat piece of wood with a little padding for the top, but I will have to make some kind of cambered caul to fit the neck that's flat on the clamp side. I have to figure out how to do the measurement so the neck sits in it exactly. I doubt this will take power tools, but I will have to figure out how to do the measurements of the curve and things like that. Perhaps I will use a wire as a baseline for the curve, and then from there I can make a paper template that I can translate to the wood. I will do research on how to copy the curve.
Holy **** I get to do some woodworking! This is actually really cool.
Thank you for the advice and the research on this bass, too. Sounds like that's as I figured - a copy of a copy of a copy. Wouldn't have it any other way.
I can use a flat piece of wood with a little padding for the top, but I will have to make some kind of cambered caul to fit the neck that's flat on the clamp side. I have to figure out how to do the measurement so the neck sits in it exactly. I doubt this will take power tools, but I will have to figure out how to do the measurements of the curve and things like that. Perhaps I will use a wire as a baseline for the curve, and then from there I can make a paper template that I can translate to the wood. I will do research on how to copy the curve.
Holy **** I get to do some woodworking! This is actually really cool.
Thank you for the advice and the research on this bass, too. Sounds like that's as I figured - a copy of a copy of a copy. Wouldn't have it any other way.
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That is comforting to know. I got some advice about handling the electronics in another thread, too, which I am very thankful for. I'll be sure to look up some diagrams and stuff, and maybe even watch some 101 videos. The electronics are the part I'm most terrified about.
Still wondering about the cauls. On the guides for broken headstocks on frets.com, he doesn't seem to make any specially shaped cauls. He uses heavy padding on top, and the padding contours to the shape. I'll need to think on this some more...need to think about my options. Either way for the top caul I may very well need to cut out a little bit to account for the actual frets. (Edit: I think of one exception, where he had to make a caul out of some kind of plastic for a particularly badly broken headstock. But I'm talking about for more typical breaks.)
Another thing: I have no idea what the finish is that's on the back of the neck, probably some polycarbonate, but there's no way I'll be able to conceal the crack. I was thinking of borrowing from Japanese kintsugi, the technique for repairing pottery by dusting lacquer with gold or silver to make the cracks look beautiful, and show the history of the piece, instead of trying to hide them. I'll need to get some kind of lacquer to cover the crack, but I think the kind of gold or silver dust that they sell for cake decorating should suffice fine for this task.
Not going to be buying stuff for the project tomorrow, though. After I get some bloodwork done I'm going to get either a cassette player or a CD player (whatever medium is cheapter at Rasputin's) and buy a ton of albums. I want to start studying R&B and funk and other music, and hopefully start playing along too. I've gotten to the point where I'm playing along with music (well, one song I have been practicing a bit because I like it). I want to become adaptable.
I also need some other basic tools (namely soldering tools, some smaller hex keys and one of those tuning peg twister things). As far as the shop stuff, I'm going to ask my bestie's dad if he has all the supplies, and pay him for whatever materials I use. He's a woodworker, so I would be shocked if he doesn't have some hide glue and scrap wood around.
Things have been very difficult for me for a while, in my life and emotionally in my own head. I feel like this project is starting to drive me a little. As I turn this pauper into a princess, maybe my own life will turn around a bit too, if not materially then mentally.
Still wondering about the cauls. On the guides for broken headstocks on frets.com, he doesn't seem to make any specially shaped cauls. He uses heavy padding on top, and the padding contours to the shape. I'll need to think on this some more...need to think about my options. Either way for the top caul I may very well need to cut out a little bit to account for the actual frets. (Edit: I think of one exception, where he had to make a caul out of some kind of plastic for a particularly badly broken headstock. But I'm talking about for more typical breaks.)
Another thing: I have no idea what the finish is that's on the back of the neck, probably some polycarbonate, but there's no way I'll be able to conceal the crack. I was thinking of borrowing from Japanese kintsugi, the technique for repairing pottery by dusting lacquer with gold or silver to make the cracks look beautiful, and show the history of the piece, instead of trying to hide them. I'll need to get some kind of lacquer to cover the crack, but I think the kind of gold or silver dust that they sell for cake decorating should suffice fine for this task.
Not going to be buying stuff for the project tomorrow, though. After I get some bloodwork done I'm going to get either a cassette player or a CD player (whatever medium is cheapter at Rasputin's) and buy a ton of albums. I want to start studying R&B and funk and other music, and hopefully start playing along too. I've gotten to the point where I'm playing along with music (well, one song I have been practicing a bit because I like it). I want to become adaptable.
I also need some other basic tools (namely soldering tools, some smaller hex keys and one of those tuning peg twister things). As far as the shop stuff, I'm going to ask my bestie's dad if he has all the supplies, and pay him for whatever materials I use. He's a woodworker, so I would be shocked if he doesn't have some hide glue and scrap wood around.
Things have been very difficult for me for a while, in my life and emotionally in my own head. I feel like this project is starting to drive me a little. As I turn this pauper into a princess, maybe my own life will turn around a bit too, if not materially then mentally.
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A cassette player? Get yerself a Victrola while you're at it 'n som'a Mr Edision's new fangled disky things that play music.
That 'turner peg twisty thing' is called a string winder. Get one for bass tuners. Don't let anyone sell you one for guitars. The bass winder will work on guitars but the guitar ones don't work too well on a bass. I have one of each; 'cause I didn't know any better and no one told me.
That 'turner peg twisty thing' is called a string winder. Get one for bass tuners. Don't let anyone sell you one for guitars. The bass winder will work on guitars but the guitar ones don't work too well on a bass. I have one of each; 'cause I didn't know any better and no one told me.
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