Ampeg B100R

[Texan]

I found an Ampeg B100R in a pawn shop today. No price, dirty and the transformer is slightly rusty. Everything works on it, tje gain is pretty scratchy, but I'm sure deoxit can take care of that. The price they quoted me was about half the price that I have seen them sell for. This made me almost take it, but the person said that it was a final sale, common at a pawn shop. But it made me weary, even though it could just be old stock that they need to move.

I'm considering going back tomorrow and letting it sit and burn for about 20-30 mins to see if it acts up. Can anyone that knows these amps give me ideas of what else to look for on this amp that would hint at a problem?

 

[JimmyM]

Just work the switches and knobs and make sure everything works. As for the tranny rust, it happens. Not to worry unless it's not working, and even then, it's probably not the tranny.

 

[Hoochie Coochie Man]

The worst thing about the B100R is that they are heavy. Don't expect it to go extremely loud. Sometimes the cardboard port tubes fall off. Some of them make a "pop" sound when you turn the power switch off. It's normal, don't worry about it. I think the vital electronic devices aside from standard resistors, capacitors, diodes, switches etc, that make it work are not obsolete yet, so they should be repairable if something goes wrong. They were made in the USA for a while, and then they were made in China. I have one of each, and don't think there is any difference.

The good thing about them is that they sound really good for a low cost solid state combo amp. There are a few TB members who like me own two of them. That should say something about what owners think about them.

Where I live, they go for about $300.00.

I think if you buy it, you will like it.

 

[beans-on-toast]

A light coat of rust is not bad, it acts as an insulator. A transformer normally has an insulating coat of lacquer on it anyway. A heavy coat of rust that penetrates between the transformer’s plates is not good.

Unless you know how to remove rust from the transformer plates, best to leave it alone. Do not attempt to remove it by sanding or with a wire brush.

Check for signs of water damage. If the cabinet was standing in a foot of flood water, you would see it. Mold isn’t good.

 

[p5string]

The hardest thing to repair on a B100r is the pilot light. They're a bit of a pain in the arse. Just about every thing else is stand fare. Great sounding amps but a tad on the heavy side. If the price is right snag it.

 

[Bobby Bass]

I'm old (68 years old) & been moving my B100R around since 1997 & don't think it's that heavy. Great amp. I love mine & gig with it almost all the time unless it's an outside gig.

 

[Bugeyed Earl]

I bought my B-100R at a pawn shop for chump change also, it only needed a new pilot light and touching up a few cold solder joints, but those weren't really apparent when I was testing it in the shop. The circuit is pretty simple and should be cheap to repair if anything goes wrong.

It's a great sounding amp, I honestly prefer mine to my Mesa Walkabout. Good luck with the purchase!

 

[Texan]

After letting it burn for a bit the sound started going in and out. They wouldn't go low enough for me to be comfortable with a potential paper weight. The guy tried saying "they sell used at GC for over $350 and a new one would be over $450"...ya for a clean one and they haven't been made for 20 years...

 

[JimmyM]

After letting it burn for a bit the sound started going in and out. They wouldn't go low enough for me to be comfortable with a potential paper weight. The guy tried saying "they sell used at GC for over $350 and a new one would be over $450"...ya for a clean one and they haven't been made for 20 years...

8, but who's counting? Hmmm...I guess I am. Oh well...

 

[ghostinthemach]

I own one, bought used $250 for backup, became go to because of tone and convenience.
I learned to beware of input jack failure due to the leverage of a vertically oriented straight plug into the jack which is soldered directly to the circuit board.
The castors help a lot.

 

[Figjam]

B100r was my first real amp. It was heavy, not super loud. But great tones. Eventually not aggressive enough of a tone for me, and not loud enough.

 

[Brad Johnson]

If you're considering buying one, fine a nicer example.

I think they're great combos. I've had mine for well over ten years but I don't gig with it.

I've owned three B-15's... I prefer the B-100R.

 

[nateynate]

I've had one for years and also love it. You can find them used pretty regular and they are great amps. Flip top with more low end.

 

[DaveDeVille]

i love mine , gets regular use in practice room ...

 

[Jaycephas]

Been using mine for practice. Just a great amp.

 

[anderbass]

After letting it burn for a bit the sound started going in and out.

That problem might just be a dirty headphone jack, its got a shunt that mutes the speaker when using headphones. The B100R headphone jack faces upward, so it's very prone to dust drifting down into the headphone jack... Sometimes, you can simply insert a guitar plug in & out of the headphone jack a few times to clear the dust and oxidation away from the contact points of the shunt.

If you go try the amp out again, you could wait until it starts acting up again; then try that simple remedy and see if it instantly solves the malfunction or not

 

[noeinstein]

Thinking of buying a used B-100R with no sound. Seems to power up (peak and signal LED's light up, but no power light and no sound). Any thoughts about what might be wrong?

 

[JimmyM]

Thinking of buying a used B-100R with no sound. Seems to power up (peak and signal LED's light up, but no power light and no sound). Any thoughts about what might be wrong?

Best case scenario is a disconnected speaker spade. Worst case is a $400 repair bill. Feel lucky?

 

[2F/2F]

I got one new in '97, and it was my only amp until earlier this year. They are outstanding amps IMO, to say the least. I love the tone, and it has been 100 percent reliable.

That said, they were $500 new, and they have never been hard to find or in big demand. The way I see it, they shouldn't go for any more than $350 now, in great condition. I'd pay no more than $150 for one with possible electronic issues, if the cosmetics were clean...and I'd have to know exactly what the problems were even to pay that much. If it wasn't clear what was wrong, I might pay $50 to $100.

They were not discontinued 20 years ago. They were still pretty new at that point. I believe that they were being manufactured continuously from the mid '90's till maybe 8 or 10 years ago.

They also aren't what I would call *heavy* – only in the relative sense, compared to today's lightweight amps. They're about 65 pounds, but awkwardly thick, and with a mediocre handle.

I cured the problem of the cardboard tubes falling off of the plastic port flanges 20 years ago by gaff taping the tubes to the flanges. That tape still holds today.

I added the proper Ampeg casters at some point (the amps came with the caster receptacles, but no wheels). The caster receptacles eventually blew out of the particle board cab, and I haven't bothered to fix this yet (but I will get to it some day).

Other than that, the amp is cosmetically kind of trashed, but has never had a functional problem of any kind. It's been all around the country multiple times, and has had close to 1,000 gigs put on it. It lived in my trunk for years straight at times – no joke. It's still 100 percent stock, right down to the rubber feet and power cable. And yes, even the light still works.

Needless to say, I highly recommend this amp.

Here's mine with my bass, about 4 years ago, before departing on a 30-day, 8,500 mile tour by van.

 

[SwitchGear]

I have an 1996 model B100R. Great sounding amp & it looks good, imo. Just a bit heavy and boxy to carry up and down stairs for what it is, a 100 watt combo amp. Mine stays at our rehearsal place.