Best Guage for a low B ?

Hex core is your friend on a low B. Don't overthink the gauge, because there isn't an enormous difference in tension between .125 and .135. IME, with .125 (or even .120) pitch definition is a bit sharper and stays clear higher up the neck (and equivalent playability to you E string) and if you choose bigger gauges you are doing so because you desire better tone (more brightness, sharper attack, tighter envelope) and higher tension (which let's you dig in more and achieve lower action). Big strings are always an exercise in compromise, you always have to adjust your playing to them to a certain extent, and find the gauge that hits a sweet spot you can manage well.
 
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and if you choose bigger gauges you are doing so because you desire better tone (more brightness, sharper attack, tighter envelope) and higher tension (which let's you dig in more and achieve lower action).

This myth keeps coming around here, and it doesn't jive with the Physics (yes, I studied the Physics of musical instruments and have a degree in Acoustical Physics).

On other one hand, we have people saying that bigger gauges give you brighter tone, and on the other hand we have people who gravitate to longer scale lengths so they can use skinnier strings - to avoid "tubby" tones you get with big B strings. So, bigger strings give you brighter tones and darker tones at the same time? One of these two camps has to be wrong.

It's not the mass of the string that gives you more overtones. If it were, flats (which pack more mass than a round wound, because there aren't the gaps between windings) would give more overtones than rounds, which we all know is preposterous.

So, what gives you more overtones? It's flexibility and less damping - string construction details. Less contact between windings gives you flexibility (rounds are brighter than flats). The same detail makes stainless rounds brighter than nickels - the harder metal means the windings don't dig into each other and the core as deeply as they do with nickels, so less contact = less damping = brighter strings.

Bigger strings (all else being equal) give you darker tones. You can be fooled if you're overdriving things - bigger strings will give you more output, which, if you have drive going on, means you'll get more drive, and in that situation, you will get more harmonics - from the electronics. But without overdrive, and with other construction details the same, skinnier strings give you more harmonics/brighter sound.
 
OK, "best" is going to be subjective, but...

Earlier this year I acquired a cheap Squier VM 70s Jazz Bass V. After giving it a clean and a set-up I restrung it with a medium gauge GHS Bassics (set M6000-5). The .130 B string is easily the "best" fat boi I have ever played.
 
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I do all my 4 string bass’s as BEAD and always use bright round wound low B strings of various brands to get a bright clean non-muddy sound.
I try 125, 130 and 135 gauges but was wondering if one of those gauge sizes would give me more of the bright defined sound I’m always wanting,,,,, or does gauge size make a difference ?

My apologies if that’s a dumb question
Thanks in advance for for any opinions and feedback.

Cheers, Davyo

Gauge size will make a difference in tension and tone (or so I find). I find the larger gauge strings aren't as bright to my ears.

125-130 for me. My prosteels set has a 127 that i really like...

Good Luck!
 
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I do all my 4 string bass’s as BEAD and always use bright round wound low B strings of various brands to get a bright clean non-muddy sound.
I try 125, 130 and 135 gauges but was wondering if one of those gauge sizes would give me more of the bright defined sound I’m always wanting,,,,, or does gauge size make a difference ?

My apologies if that’s a dumb question
Thanks in advance for for any opinions and feedback.

Cheers, Davyo

Not a dumb question at all. I used to automatically go with a 130 or 135. Lately I’ve been using a 125. My experience has lead me to believe it boils down to how rigid the neck of the bass is, your technique and the construction of the string set you’re using. I can play light or heavy and find that a hex core string on a stable neck will allow me to use even a 120. With round core strings I prefer to start at 125.

The shorter answer is you may have to experiment to find what works for you. I like to have the B string match the rest of the set tonally and not sound overly thuddy.

I have a real world bass playing friend whose experience is a bit different than mine and needs something different than what I need. We both sound good and play some similar basses. So back to technique and experimenting. It’ll be fun, a bit pricey and completely worth it.
I'll definitely have to second ^THIS^. My experience with low B strings on BEAD 4 string bass is fairly limited; one bass ('06 Carvin LB-20), with 4 different kinds/brands of strings. But, my experience was pretty similar. It first wore the set of Warwick Low Bs that I first tried on my '78 Kramer 450B lumie. Which, IMO, is not the bass to try this with - unless you want to kill people with the tone/sound pressure. Plus, I really didn't want to carve up the lefty, scarcer-than-hen's-teeth pinned aluminum nut on the thing. However... on the Carvin? They worked pretty darn well. Only my dislike of round wound strings made me remove them. The B string was a nice one, though... IRC, the next strings were the heavy strings from a 5 string set of 40-125 Nickel Slinkys. I really liked those - especially the B string. But, my dislike of rounds struck again, so... on went the 65-135s from a set of La Bella Black tapes. Which would have been just about perfect - except for the just-a-little-too-rubbery B string. Which surprised me; there are fairly light gauge rounds under that black nylon. So, off they came. The final set of strings - and the ones that stayed the longest? The 65-130 strings from a set of Roto RS775LDs. The 130 B string was plenty stiff - although I suspect the bridge-cable tension that Roto 77's are famous for had more than a little to do with that... Still, I really liked those strings; they were on the bass for several years. And, they probably still would be, if I hadn't bowed to the fact that I, personally, just have no need for a BEAD 4-string bass, and hardly ever played the poor thing. So, I - reluctantly - replaced the nut with the original one, and put a set of OG Sadowsky Blue Label Flats on what is a very, very nice bass. Which now gets played a whole lot more than it used to...:whistle:
 
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I do all my 4 string bass’s as BEAD and always use bright round wound low B strings of various brands to get a bright clean non-muddy sound.
I try 125, 130 and 135 gauges but was wondering if one of those gauge sizes would give me more of the bright defined sound I’m always wanting,,,,, or does gauge size make a difference ?

My apologies if that’s a dumb question
Thanks in advance for for any opinions and feedback.

Cheers, Davyo

I like to use 125’s as I find thinner strings give a stronger, clearer fundamental with less weird overtones than the heavier strings do. However I am not playing with a pick and may have different tonal goals in mind!
 
I think it's safe to say that thinner gauge is more flexible and will lend itself to more clank, overtones, brighter tone and easier to sound more aggressive. Thicker gauge you're getting stiffness, darker and more out front fundamental. The key is to have just enough meat and potatoes fundamental but to also have enough flex and brightness and as far as tapers go I prefer untapered just because I have to adjust them more to get the right tone and it's usually higher than the other strings and it's nicer to have string height more uniform. Also untapered feels a little stiffer which to me helps me not dig too hard when I'm playing. And after experimentation with 135 I'm going back to 125, 128 if it's blue steels, or 130 but no thicker and untapered if I have a choice. I like to have just enough fundamental to go with the brightness so it sounds big but not muddy. I've been through tons of strings finding what makes each brand interesting and it really helps to narrow it down when you have a clear sound that you're trying to achieve.
 
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