Best way to remove sticker from Peavey Max 115 Grill?

#21
bass40hz said:
You are correct, it can be fixed...but why should it? Its brand new, got it yesterday. You don't get a new car today and tonight try to fix a faulty tail-light or troubleshoot a parking sensor (this actually happened to me n a brand new Jeep)...its new, you go back to the dealer because as consumers we should not have to pay good hard earned cash for inferior products and settle for less. Rock on.
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Yes you are right, if you can send it back, do so. I was thinking that with the packaging modified, the label removed, they might not accept it.
 
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#24
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#25
Bill Whitehurst said:
The sticker sucks, but the rattle is just so wrong.
It's not as if they have never built anything with any type of grill before.
This sort of thing really messes up their image of being simple, reliable and trouble free.

I still love my Cirrus, though. :D
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That image is why I chose this combo for this particular project...I needed reliable grab and go...Its a very poor design, the screws haven't any type of washer and the grill rests right on the cabinet frame, there really is nothing to dampen or cushion in between screw/grill/wood. Not too mention you cant get to the screws at top of the grill as its under the amp-head and you would have to totally remove it...they could have spent 2 cents extra on 6 rubber washers and this would never happen.
PEAVEY...ARE YOU LISTENING?!?!?
 
#26
Dean N said:
Naphtha, not acetone. Acetone will likely damage the paint.

1. Remove the grill, lay it flat, and place a rag with naphtha on it over the sticker (this will let the naphtha contact and soften the adhesive).

2. Wait a half hour or so. I'd recommend having a tasty beer. (Edit: Scotch, huh? Then I'd recommend Macallan. Or Highland Park.)

3. Go peel off the sticker, and wipe off any residue.

4. Reattach grill.

5. Post pics.
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No, no!! You're wrong!
Glenlivet :)
 
#31
57pbass said:
Windex works really well with adhesive stuff..
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Generally, Windex won't work at all.

The adhesives are based on non-polar chemistry, therefore non-polar solvents are necessary. Windex is a polar solvent, just like water, and works well on polar debris like sugars, and such. WD-40, Naptha, paint thinner and the like are non-polar solvents, which is why they work on non-polar substances.
 
#33
agedhorse said:
Generally, Windex won't work at all.

The adhesives are based on non-polar chemistry, therefore non-polar solvents are necessary. Windex is a polar solvent, just like water, and works well on polar debris like sugars, and such. WD-40, Naptha, paint thinner and the like are non-polar solvents, which is why they work on non-polar substances.
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Thank you for the information.. my experience has been while trying to remove residual adhesive from aluminum desktops I applied WD-40. Goo Be Gone .. both worked.
I applied Windex to a few and it worked much quicker and more effectively and without all the chemicals..
 
#34
Hot breath. Tried all the other crapolla methods. Exhale slowly and close to the edge of the sticker until the glue gets soft then gently peel off. Continue as you gently peel off the rest. There may be some residue left after so Windex with a rag will work to take the rest off or use those handwipes.
 
#35
bass40hz said:
NOW the issue is that at any type of volume above say 10:00 with gain at same EQ flat, the grill rattles and it rattles so loud you can hear it over your playing, never mind tweaking the EQ or adding some bottom, tightened everything AGAIN and no luck. At this point totally 110% disgusted and reminded why I never ever bought Peavey, a good deal isn't always that...its going back. Rock on.
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My music room has a resonant frequency near enough to D that when I play bass with any volume, I can hear the doors and ducts rattle. Put that on the list of things guitarists don't have to deal with.
 
#39
I have a ton of experience with decal remover especially foil applied to steel.
As a contractor, we bought and resold power line filters under our name.
The manufacturer would not ship without their label (not because of UL).
The guys in my shop must have removed over 350 in a 8 year period.

Acetone is dangerous and melts the adhesive making a big mess.
Decal Off, a product made just for this application and did not work well (at least with industrial adhesives).
WD40 was good but messy oil to clean up.
Naptha is flammable but worked very well and does not leave a big mess.
You don't need to buy it by the gallon as this is what Zippo lighter fluid is.

BTW, don't use Simple Green on aluminum alloy.
It stained a piece of 6061T6 aluminum that I had just machined and it was a complex part.
Got it to polish out and then re-grained the finish.
It's banned from my shop now.
 
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#40
jchrisk1 said:
I would try heating it up with a hair dryer, then try to peel it off. It might soften the glue enough. If not, I would use a thin razor blade and slice it off. But that would depend on how flat the grill surface is, and your blade operating skill set.
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^^^ This, except use a plastic scraper - then some Goo Gone on a Q-Tip. Patience and rubbing.

I'd be really pissed.
 
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