Building a 1x10 cab

#22
JC Vallejo said:
Don't get me wrong, I'm not happy with the idea of buying a high cost driver and get an awful result, but meanwhile the driver has specs that makes sense I would just be scraping enclosures and several Sunday hours :D
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It sounds to me like you have the right attitude about the whole thing. IME, if you use a good driver, you can get passable or usable performance, even if the box design is not perfect. I would definitely recommend using a construction technique that allows you to adjust the duct length after the box has been built and you're able to test the results. Then you can make tweaks to the design without scrapping the whole enclosure.

Anyway, and as I've already said, it sounds like you've got the right attitude for a builder/experimenter and that you're heading into it with your eyes open. And I have to say, the lessons I've learned the best have actually been from making mistakes.
 
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#23
JC Vallejo said:
Your Sears suggestion will be my give up plan :laugh:
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:laugh:


seriously: i'm with the group who says this isn't brain surgery. manufacturer's recommendations for internal volumes will get you into the right universe. freeware can get you what you want. best of luck coming up with a cab solution that you like! :thumbsup:
 
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#24
B&C Neo for sure. But I'd increase cabinet size and use two 10s. Here is an early construction pic I had from one I use at rehearsals with a GKMB500. And set up for 8 ohms. And is plenty loud (being ported), and light weight.

I covered it with charcoal carpet, used 4 inch tuned ports, dual B&C drivers (16 ohm wired in parallel), covered every inside surface with 3 inch polyester pillow padding,
  • Height: 19"
  • Width: 23"
  • Depth: 14.5"
And plenty of power handling.
B&C Speakers

Dual 10 Cabinet.jpg
 
#25
nilorius said:
Power sake or headroom....there are no speaker 10'' that will give you 800W power in your headroom, only in your dreams.
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It seems I got it wrong. Maybe I got a typo in my first post but I don't remember writing that I wanted to get a 800w 10" driver. I don't think they even exist.

JimChjones said:
The downside would be that if you stack an 8ohm 1*10 and an 8ohm 2*10 the 1*10 will get half the output. If you think you'll never need to do that then no problem.
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You're right, but having a 1x15 solve my needs so it's unlikely the need for stacking... Unless I build a second 1x10 8ohm cab and play 4x10 through my Genz Benz Shuttlemax 12.0 (2×600w @ 4ohms) :thumbsup:

singlemalt said:
Build a fEarful 12/6 in either the cube or rectangular form.

It’s a sure fire winner. Free detailed plans, easy parts ordering. Go on over the Greenboy’s web site. Speaker hardware for one stop shopping.

I prefer the cube shape, since it stacks well with other fEarfuls. Use the inexpensive alpha 6 mid and the simple “cheap but good” crossover.

You’ll find tons of build threads and help on the Greenboy forum.

Or follow Duke’s plan for the 1-10, but build your own cab. The dimensions for that box are listed. You’d want to make some changes to have a grill.

There’s no need to reinvent the wheel, become a audio scientist, or rely on the wild ass guess.

The 1-10 is going to have brick wall limits for volume. The 12/6 will do a great job handling your power.

The fEarfuls blew all my other DIY cabs out of the water. I’ve built four so far, the 12/6 cubes are my favorites.
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Will take a look. Thanks!

Redbrangus said:
It sounds to me like you have the right attitude about the whole thing. IME, if you use a good driver, you can get passable or usable performance, even if the box design is not perfect. I would definitely recommend using a construction technique that allows you to adjust the duct length after the box has been built and you're able to test the results. Then you can make tweaks to the design without scrapping the whole enclosure.

Anyway, and as I've already said, it sounds like you've got the right attitude for a builder/experimenter and that you're heading into it with your eyes open. And I have to say, the lessons I've learned the best have actually been from making mistakes.
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Thanks! hopefully I'll update you guys once I'm hands on... or at least with an specific driver in mind :whistle:

JRA said:
:laugh:


seriously: i'm with the group who says this isn't brain surgery. manufacturer's recommendations for internal volumes will get you into the right universe. freeware can get you what you want. best of luck coming up with a cab solution that you like! :thumbsup:
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That's how I build my first cab. It has some flaws, I learnt stuff I the process and it's still good enough for rehearsals and venues. See pics bellow :D

Eddie LeBlanc said:
B&C Neo for sure. But I'd increase cabinet size and use two 10s. Here is an early construction pic I had from one I use at rehearsals with a GKMB500. And set up for 8 ohms. And is plenty loud (being ported), and light weight.

I covered it with charcoal carpet, used 4 inch tuned ports, dual B&C drivers (16 ohm wired in parallel), covered every inside surface with 3 inch polyester pillow padding,
  • Height: 19"
  • Width: 23"
  • Depth: 14.5"
And plenty of power handling.
B&C Speakers

View attachment 3443017
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Thanks for the suggestion. Surely I won't build a 2x10 because I already have one and I want to get something more oriented to different gig situations, but BTW do you know how much does your can weights?

This is my first built. Eminence Delta 45LF-4.
Mistakes: The cab needed wider and more braces. I had to add 2" thick mineral wool to rock with it without shattering walls. The driver is not the best regarding sensitivity and 4ohms is not flexible to pair with another cab unless I use a 2ohm head or a 2 channel head. Went for the large cab design for getting lower end but medium would have been punchier and maybe louder.

What I liked from it: I refused to get thicker plywood and used 5/16" Baltic birch. Is a lightweight cab that would be even lighter if wider braces were placed so I didn't have to use tons of mineral wool (is heavy).

After a couple of years I allowed my kids to draw on its face. :roflmao:
 

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#30
Your kids are incredibly cute!

I know this doesn't fit your plans for building something, but honestly for the money you will pay for the driver and other materials, you might be better off buying something already built. For example, this TC Electronics 2x8 cabinet, 22 lbs $200 USD. It'll be lighter, louder, and cheaper. Not sure what the situation is with having things shipped to your location.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/de...c88FdhSzZsvm1MRt3fikKPCTLHDStdyUaAiOfEALw_wcB
 
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#32
1x12 will slay a 2x8
Not louder in any way.

But yes correct diy is more expensive.

Personally haven't carried a cab in years.
Just a affordable cast frame Delta Pro 15a 1x15 with castor's and 1/2 ply braced construction will destroy most boob teac cabs.

Magic mids and loud n punchy 101dB
 
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#33
I'm intrigued with what the OP might come up with so please keep us posted. I have often toyed with the idea of building a cab but never have because when I thought about how much time it would take and the likelihood that I would really be able to construct something special, I always found what I wanted on CL or elsewhere. Your prior project, especially as decorated by the kids, seems to indicate you have a high level of ability so maybe my perspective does not really fit with yours.
 
#35
BogeyBass said:
1x12 will slay a 2x8
Not louder in any way.

But yes correct diy is more expensive.

Personally haven't carried a cab in years.
Just a affordable cast frame Delta Pro 15a 1x15 with castor's and 1/2 ply braced construction will destroy most boob teac cabs.

Magic mids and loud n punchy 101dB
Click to expand...

Please try not to generalize. "1x12 will slay a 2x8" is not a universally true statement, in fact I have a pair of 8" cabs that I built myself out of guitar speakers that can compete with a lower end 12" bass cab.
 
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#37
JC Vallejo said:
After a couple of years I allowed my kids to draw on its face. :roflmao:
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I like the drawings!

kesslari said:
MAS 1,8 fits your weight, size, volume, and tone criteria in spades.
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If you're going to buy a cab and are willing to spring for a good one, this is probably the most potent and high-fidelity cab of its size I can think of.

BeefPie84 said:
Don't buy a new amp or cab.

Push Cart Dolly by Wellmax | Functional Moving Platform + Hand Truck | Foldable for Easy Storage + 360-degree Swivel Wheels + 330lb Weight Capacity | Yellow Colour https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076ZYZ592/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y8gaDb6X8D1EH

Doubles as a cab stand.
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If what you've got now sounds good to you running at low-throttle in your current situation, some sort of cart is another possibility. Or maybe a hoverboard, like in the second (?) Back to the Future movie...

Back on the DIY front, while I'll leave specific technical considerations to others, I'll add that the most expensive driver won't necessarily be the best one for your purpose (might be, but might not).
 
#38
bherman said:
I know this doesn't fit your plans for building something, but honestly for the money you will pay for the driver and other materials, you might be better off buying something already built. For example, this TC Electronics 2x8 cabinet, 22 lbs $200 USD. It'll be lighter, louder, and cheaper. Not sure what the situation is with having things shipped to your location.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/BC208--tc-electronic-bc208-2x8-inch-200-watt-bass-cabinet?mrkgcl=28&mrkgadid=3333171319&rkg_id=0&product_id=BC208&campaigntype=shopping&campaign=aaShopping - Not In Stock&adgroup=Bass&placement=google&adpos=1o3&creative=337993469440&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQjwov3nBRDFARIsANgsdoGND16NilJ3jseCY0tRDQ2c88FdhSzZsvm1MRt3fikKPCTLHDStdyUaAiOfEALw_wcB
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I would wait for finding a used one, I'm curious about bass cabinets with small drivers. I hope I can hear one soon... A Phil Jones Bass 4C lite is another stuff that I would love to test drive. Regarding the BC208, it's 5lb lighter than my current Markbass. It's something but I wonder if staying in the single drive cab format would led to greater weight reduction.

kesslari said:
MAS 1,8 fits your weight, size, volume, and tone criteria in spades.
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I didn't know the brand but I'm drooling with the numbers, but a new one is a lot of money for me. I can't find a used one and considering the cost and the leap of faith for buying a single small driver cab without a chance for listening to it, it's unlikely for me to get one for a while. I would pull the trigger only if it's a bargain price.

Ampslut said:
If you are wanting to build it, look into the Bill Fitzmaurice (BFM) 1x10 simplex.
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Wil take a deeper look, just seen some prices but still don't know how it works. Do they sell plans for enclosures and let you know the driver's that will fit? because I can think about several 10" driver's that would bee different animals so I would not think of using a common 10" template to build a generic cab but a cab that will get the best from an specific driver. Surely after a deep research I'll see if is an option for me.
 
#40
JimChjones said:
Is your current cab 8ohm? And are you happy with the sound? If so my first thought would be to see if I could source a 16ohm speaker identical to those in the Markbass and build a half size version of the Markbass cab. You'd then have a choice of 1 2 or 3 10s with increasing power, and they'd all match sonically.
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Redbrangus said:
I agree that this is a reasoned approach. I'd probably just try to get the 8-ohm version of the driver under the theory that I'm never going to want to use both cabs together, but the other way is also very workable. I've had the experience of amps sounding kind of anemic when driving a single 16-ohm speaker but working fine with an 8-ohm driver.
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Walking on this path. So far I got eminence recommendation for using a Deltalite II 2510-4 (4ohms) in series. That because I asked for a replacement driver for my Markbass 102P. So considering that the project is a single 8ohm driver, I would translate the recommendation for a Deltalite II 2510. I have seen it in the catalog and didn't considered it because of some numbers:

Usable frequency range: 60 to 4,000Hz. I thought that 60Hz was not good for bass guitar applications but I guess that it works at least as I'm getting it in my current cab (assuming that the tech guy is right).

Other than that it seems ok. It's lighter than most that I've seen, good SPL, decent Xmax.

I'm waiting for B&C and Faital Pro recommendations.
 
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