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Can’t lower action on G string to desired height - help troubleshooting?
- Thread starter Stagelab
- Start date
I recommend playing card as well. Business card is too thick, especially considering how little adjustment you need to gain.
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The issue is action on the G and the solutions discussed here are all good options. I see no reason to bring my bass to a tech. I can do all this work.
If I cared to fix the bridge alignment I’d fill the screw holes with dowels and drill new ones and remount the bridge, but I’m not bothered by the bridge as is.
When you say you can't lower it below 5/64", do you mean that the saddle can physically go no lower? Or do you mean you can't lower it without buzz?
Shim. Playing card. Sandpaper like factories sometimes do, I’ve seen masking tape .
Shims DO NOT cause ski jumps.
Full pocket shim works best.
Filing the saddle is also viable.
The shim is the simplest, cheapest, most reversible solution.
Playing card or 2, screwdriver, patience, and persistence = success
Shims DO NOT cause ski jumps.
Full pocket shim works best.
Filing the saddle is also viable.
The shim is the simplest, cheapest, most reversible solution.
Playing card or 2, screwdriver, patience, and persistence = success
Saddles have bottomed out but action is still too high = partial shim in neck pocket at the rear.
Saddles are really high and grub screws nearly falling out but action still too low = partial shim neck pocket at front. At least that is what I have done to correct either irksome situation in the easiest manner.
Can't recall where I read it on TB or who posted it, but the partial shims were made of masking tape layered thinner at middle of pocket and thicker towards the rear ie one piece thick strip in middle of pocket, than a two piece thick abutting that strip working towards rear of pocket and then a 3 piece thick strip Gives a gradual wedge shape I guess from thicker to thinner. Just swap tape around so thicker at front of pocket if saddles to high was the issue
Saddles are really high and grub screws nearly falling out but action still too low = partial shim neck pocket at front. At least that is what I have done to correct either irksome situation in the easiest manner.
Can't recall where I read it on TB or who posted it, but the partial shims were made of masking tape layered thinner at middle of pocket and thicker towards the rear ie one piece thick strip in middle of pocket, than a two piece thick abutting that strip working towards rear of pocket and then a 3 piece thick strip Gives a gradual wedge shape I guess from thicker to thinner. Just swap tape around so thicker at front of pocket if saddles to high was the issue
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No, a shim is not the only solution. You can file the string slot lower in the G-string saddle.
I'm assuming the nut slots are correct height? Factory nuts are usually way too high, which will make the action too high. High nut slots can also fool you into lowering the bridge saddles lower than they should be, which may cause other issues.
You've already said the neck relief is ok.
But yeah, there are quite a few things you should consider before you shim the neck. And if you do, use a proper shim, not just a piece of cardboard.
I'm assuming the nut slots are correct height? Factory nuts are usually way too high, which will make the action too high. High nut slots can also fool you into lowering the bridge saddles lower than they should be, which may cause other issues.
You've already said the neck relief is ok.
But yeah, there are quite a few things you should consider before you shim the neck. And if you do, use a proper shim, not just a piece of cardboard.
And I agree with checking the nut slot height. What is that G at in 64ths at the first fret? Always set relief before nut slot. If you do the nut to its lowest height. Which is usually 1-2 ,64ths at the first fret then set relief you could end up with a low nut slot. One swipe of a file can ruin your day.
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Conventional wisdom holds that an end-of-pocket shim is the soundest approach when dealing with bottomed-out saddles. This is assuming the strings are installed correctly and the balance of the set-up is within spec. Deepening the saddle slot is a workaround but, as others pointed out, this may compromise the plating. OTOH, saddles are relatively inexpensive and easily replaced.
On the plus side: once the neck is removed, this is a great opportunity to do some light "housekeeping" which may have been under-addressed at the factory.
*Chase the pocket screw holes so there's a clean pass-thru and modicum of wiggle-room.
*Add some screen to prevent lateral slippage.
*Once the neck is re-installed, leave the mounting screws loose and use feeler gauges (...if necessary) to align.
*Once the strings are re-installed, tune to pitch or near-pitch THEN full tighten the mounting screws. This pulls the neck heel firmly into the pocket.
Riis
On the plus side: once the neck is removed, this is a great opportunity to do some light "housekeeping" which may have been under-addressed at the factory.
*Chase the pocket screw holes so there's a clean pass-thru and modicum of wiggle-room.
*Add some screen to prevent lateral slippage.
*Once the neck is re-installed, leave the mounting screws loose and use feeler gauges (...if necessary) to align.
*Once the strings are re-installed, tune to pitch or near-pitch THEN full tighten the mounting screws. This pulls the neck heel firmly into the pocket.
Riis
I took care of step 1 last month. What do you mean “add some screen”?
I presume screen mesh, which you’d put in the neck pocket under the heel, to keep the neck from rotating. I’ve seen some people do that, and while I never found it really necessary, I wonder if it could also help with action?
Turnaround
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Yeah those pesky zeros. So I feel yall through this. Fenders are always just right there at the critical seesaw. Either is or isn’t. For the most part a shim is not needed with a bent plate and vintage saddles but even that isn’t a guarantee. Any oversized saddle or bridge will probably need one. I highly recommend stewmac full pocket shims. The thinnest of that pack is all you need.
G string nut measures 0.011 when fretting fret 3 and measuring at fret 1. Sadowsky recommends 0.004-0.012. It’s an adjustable nut and is set at the lowest level.
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Oops. Typo. 0.012. Just brought it down to 0.010. G action is still a tad higher than D and A. I’ll add a shim.
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I place a small hunk of aluminum screen (....swiped from wife's art studio) between the neck heel and pocket floor. Actually, any abrasive will work including bow rosin. OCD-driven and may not be necessary but won't hurt anything.
Riis
Added my paper shim at the heel. Set action to 4/64 at the G, D and A and 5/64 at the E. Small change but feels better having the 3 strings set to the same height. I don’t see a need to order a StewMac shim and cut it to size. I had the same paper shim in my Jazz for years, no issues.