D&R's build thread

[definenredefine]

After close to a short eternity, a small update. I made a phone mic! I started with this -


First I pulled the mic and speaker. Paradoxically, I ended up using the speaker as the mic element. Seems counter intuitive, but you can't use the mic without a transformer, and I don't have any of those.


I had an old XLR cable with a dead connector, so I used that for wiring. I could have soldered it, but I figured why not use the screw terminals -


I drilled out and filed the bottom so I could fit a panel mount XLR jack in it. I've seen this done with running the cable out of the bottom of the phone and connected to the jack that way, but I thought this would be...cleaner? And I wanted the challenge.


I guess I didn't get any pics of soldering the XLR jack, but here's what it looks like installed -


Et voila!


I plugged it into the PA in my band room. It works, and it sounds just as thin and tinny as you would think. I've seen these used to add some color or an intentionally lo-fi character to recordings. Since my band just started working on a demo - behold the blanket fort! - I figure we have some use for it.


I have another handset and an old CB mic on the work table for conversion as well. Hopefully I'll get those done today.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

After close to a short eternity, a small update. I made a phone mic! I started with this -
View attachment 5340530

First I pulled the mic and speaker. Paradoxically, I ended up using the speaker as the mic element. Seems counter intuitive, but you can't use the mic without a transformer, and I don't have any of those.
View attachment 5340533

I had an old XLR cable with a dead connector, so I used that for wiring. I could have soldered it, but I figured why not use the screw terminals -
View attachment 5340534

I drilled out and filed the bottom so I could fit a panel mount XLR jack in it. I've seen this done with running the cable out of the bottom of the phone and connected to the jack that way, but I thought this would be...cleaner? And I wanted the challenge.
View attachment 5340531

I guess I didn't get any pics of soldering the XLR jack, but here's what it looks like installed -
View attachment 5340532

Et voila!
View attachment 5340535 View attachment 5340536

I plugged it into the PA in my band room. It works, and it sounds just as thin and tinny as you would think. I've seen these used to add some color or an intentionally lo-fi character to recordings. Since my band just started working on a demo - behold the blanket fort! - I figure we have some use for it.
View attachment 5340548

I have another handset and an old CB mic on the work table for conversion as well. Hopefully I'll get those done today.

I did that once. Ended up, like you said, using the speaker. I still have it here somewhere. I thought it might be good for harmonica or something. The unfortunate part is I’m not good for harmonica so I never found out.

 

[definenredefine]

I did that once. Ended up, like you said, using the speaker. I still have it here somewhere. I thought it might be good for harmonica or something. The unfortunate part is I’m not good for harmonica so I never found out.

Look I'm just getting into melodica so it's never too late...

 

[definenredefine]

Twinsies!

 

[definenredefine]

I converted the aforementioned CB mic into a...um...mic, but with a standard 3-prong XLR -

I hoped to keep the button, but I couldn't figure out the wiring, so I bypassed the internal momentary switch. Oh well.

Also this guy is super low output. I had to crank the gain on the PA to get anything out of it.

The nice thing is I got the mic out of the free bin at a local antique store, and the cable is the rest of the mic cable with the dead connector I had in the parts box.

 

[definenredefine]

A while back (about 2 years ago, I think), I bought a Magnavox era Ampeg V4. It was cheap owing to the cabinet being refinished in...less than ideal fashion.

Also, there were some silly things being drawn on in place of the original markings. Observe -

...and the handles are...um...not the best -

I have been meaning to refinish the cabinet for a while. I had some time today, so I finally got started. First I pulled the amp -

Then I sanded off enough of the finish to allow for a primer coat. The plan is to paint it dark gray.


Frankly, I think it looks better with most of the green stripped off. But never the less, I'll press on. Next steps are priming and repainting. Then I'll be looking at new handles, and building a grill to go under the amp's face (akin to the original.) Only thing I'm not sure about is what to do about the faded markings on the faceplate. The dumb lightning bolt and $ have to go, but I don't know what to replace them with. Can't seem to find a replacement faceplate...

 

[T_Bone_TL]

Only thing I'm not sure about is what to do about the faded markings on the faceplate. The dumb lightning bolt and $ have to go, but I don't know what to replace them with. Can't seem to find a replacement faceplate...

When building control panels for custom lab equipment, we often used dry transfer lettering (comes on a sheet of translucent paper or plastic, you lined it up where you wanted the letter/number, and rubbed that letter (or symbol) with something small and hard (a stylus or a ballpoint pen) to make it stick to the panel. Not only is is still available, my search to check that it was popped up several places that claim to make custom dry transfers (not a thing back in the day - if you needed custom, you were into screen printing the faceplate.)

You can also use a decal.

In either case you'll want to test (on a scrap test piece) for a clear finish to go over it for better durability.

Third possibility would be an art student who you're willing to pay a bit, if they are of the "can do neat and tidy lettering/lines freehand" segment of that broad population.

 

[Beej]

A while back (about 2 years ago, I think), I bought a Magnavox era Ampeg V4. It was cheap owing to the cabinet being refinished in...less than ideal fashion.
View attachment 5372236
Also, there were some silly things being drawn on in place of the original markings. Observe -
View attachment 5372238 View attachment 5372239
...and the handles are...um...not the best -
View attachment 5372237
I have been meaning to refinish the cabinet for a while. I had some time today, so I finally got started. First I pulled the amp -
View attachment 5372240
Then I sanded off enough of the finish to allow for a primer coat. The plan is to paint it dark gray.
View attachment 5372241 View attachment 5372242

Frankly, I think it looks better with most of the green stripped off. But never the less, I'll press on. Next steps are priming and repainting. Then I'll be looking at new handles, and building a grill to go under the amp's face (akin to the original.) Only thing I'm not sure about is what to do about the faded markings on the faceplate. The dumb lightning bolt and $ have to go, but I don't know what to replace them with. Can't seem to find a replacement faceplate...

I'm good at spending other people's money. Have you looked through Antique Electronic Supply's tolex selection?
Grill Cloth, Tolex & Piping - Type: Tolex | Antique Electronic Supply

 

[T_Bone_TL]

If you're going with fabric, you could confuse the unwary onlooker with Kustom tuck&roll vinyl or Fender tweed....

 

[definenredefine]

When building control panels for custom lab equipment, we often used dry transfer lettering (comes on a sheet of translucent paper or plastic, you lined it up where you wanted the letter/number, and rubbed that letter (or symbol) with something small and hard (a stylus or a ballpoint pen) to make it stick to the panel. Not only is is still available, my search to check that it was popped up several places that claim to make custom dry transfers (not a thing back in the day - if you needed custom, you were into screen printing the faceplate.)

You can also use a decal.

In either case you'll want to test (on a scrap test piece) for a clear finish to go over it for better durability.

Third possibility would be an art student who you're willing to pay a bit, if they are of the "can do neat and tidy lettering/lines freehand" segment of that broad population.

I'll look into dry transfers. Thanks!

I'm good at spending other people's money. Have you looked through Antique Electronic Supply's tolex selection?
Grill Cloth, Tolex & Piping - Type: Tolex | Antique Electronic Supply

I gotta admit that the navy blue looks pretty nice...

 

[Beej]

I'll look into dry transfers. Thanks!


I gotta admit that the navy blue looks pretty nice...

It sure does. Imagine it with different piping and fresh new corners and feet. While I'm spending your money, I'm guessing you've browsed here? Fliptops Home of Parts for Ampeg Lovers

 

[definenredefine]

It sure does. Imagine it with different piping and fresh new corners and feet. While I'm spending your money, I'm guessing you've browsed here? Fliptops Home of Parts for Ampeg Lovers

I have indeed. Unfortunately, they don't have the faceplate anymore. I thought about buying the grill from them but I'm gonna try making my own first.

 

[definenredefine]

Today, I sanded the cabinet back to 240 so I could start priming. Before I did that, though, I screwed a couple wood blocks through a couple of screw holes in the inner wood frame.


This way, I was able to get around the whole cabinet. Also, none of the outer surfaces were in contact with the bench, so I could get to the...um...bottom, I guess.

Then I put on the first coat of primer -


Obviously, there are many more coats to go (I'm thinking at least 5) before I think about the color coat. Also, the first coat made some empty spots a bit more obvious, so those will get filled before I put on another coat of primer.

Off to a decent start, I think!

 

[definenredefine]

Today, I finally decided to build a functional table for my miter saw, using a filing cabinet I bought for this some time ago. I've wanted to do this for a while because the stand that came with the saw was just a tad too long.

I started by cutting a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood to roughly the size of the saw's footprint, plus some extra, for the top.


Then I built a frame around the filing cabinet, and attached the top -


...and attached locking casters to the bottom.


Et voila -

I may add shelves, a power strip and a small ledge for longer pieces, but I think this is a pretty good start. It's helping optimize the space.

 

[definenredefine]

I've also made some progress with the V4 cabinet - filled in some small holes/gouges with wood filler and threw on another coat of primer. I gotta sand it back to 240 then throw another coat or 2 on before I can start with color coats.

 

[definenredefine]

I'm counting this since I've posted so few updates to this thread - very slight mods to the Squier Starcaster guitar my friend gave me (https://www.talkbass.com/threads/ngd-a-lovely-surprise.1647089/). Nothing drastic, all reversible.

Replaced the original tune-o-matic bridge with a roller bridge -


Put on block "inlay" stickers -


I also took the pickguard off a while ago, so this is what it looks like now -

 

[definenredefine]

Recently, I went on a fool's errand to replace all of the original Eminence speakers in the Peavey 4x12 with 2 Scorpions and 2 Black Widows. Finished that yesterday as well. In the process, I figured out series/parallel wiring.

I made 2 series loops, with each consisting of one 8 ohm scorpion and one 8 ohm BW -


The impedance checked out for each of those, so I moved on to making sure that the whole bloody thing is where it should be -


That'll work. Et voila -

 

[definenredefine]

The other day, I put another coat of primer on the V4 cabinet, and sanded it back to 220...or 240...or whatever. I think I'm ready to think about colors now, but I'm not entirely sure which direction to go. I have these colors on my shelf already -


I was originally planning to use the dark gray, but it's...too dark. Might as well be black. I like the light blue. However, I really think I wanna look at a nice dark blue...

Any suggestions?

Also, I finally started sanding back the Cort body, and I have a question - if I'm planning on a solid color refinish, how far should I sand back the original finish? It's a glossy natural finish, and I'm planning to prime it before color goes on.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Not sure on the cabinet color(s). I think I’m too used to seeing black cabinets. Dark blue could be pretty cool though.

On the Cort body, sand until it’s all flat and level. The factory did a better job of filling and priming then most of us can do at home so might as well take advantage.

 

[T_Bone_TL]

I was originally planning to use the dark gray, but it's...too dark. Might as well be black. I like the light blue. However, I really think I wanna look at a nice dark blue...

Any suggestions?

Color choice is a fairly personal thing, so consult the person in the mirror. Black is fairly standard and boring for cabs. If you decide you don't like the first color you pick, paint over it until you find one you like. Hot pink, fluorescent orange, fire-truck green, bright yellow spring to mind as "making a statement that the cabs are not standard and boring" but if dark blue floats your boat for that job, that's what you should use. Do be slightly wary of the way that a small color swatch is different than a full-scale colored object.

Then there's stripes, spots, geometric patterns, patterns borrowed from animals, etc. as opposed to just solid color. Or white with 5 black lines, an F clef, and some notes.