Double Bass DB bicycle thread

[Chris Fitzgerald]

I'm in the same situation with drop bars: "My neck don't bend that way no more." I'm prone to tweaking some nerves in my neck, and want to avoid the danger zone while riding.

Twitchy means that the bike is highly responsive to control from the handlebars, making it much more maneuverable but also perhaps a bit unnerving to the casual rider. Two things. First you quickly get used to a twitchy bike, and second, our kinds of bikes start out with much more stable geometries (having to do with the angles of the steering tube and fork) to begin with. I've not experienced a problem with any of my bikes. One is essentially a sporty-looking hybrid, the other an old Schwinn road bike frame built up with odds and ends from the bone yard.

In addition to the wrist angle and higher posture, I also like my hands further back so I'm not reaching out as much. And further adjustments are possible. On my yellow bike, look how short the stem is -- the handlebar is barely a couple inches forward of the steer tube. Some bikes, you can flip the stem so it's pointing upward rather than downward. There are steering tube extenders. Lots of options. At some point you might find that the cables aren't long enough for further adjustment unless you install longer cables.

Indeed, I've noticed that the marketing pictures always show bikes with high saddles and low bars, but when you see guys my age on the same bikes, they've always raised up the cockpit.

Thanks so much for this detailed info! My bike tech guy, who sold me the Orbea and put the new handle on it last year, told me that he doesn’t recommend extenders. He also said I had a limited amount of raising I could do before I’d need longer cables. But I intuitively like the look of the bars on the red bike in your pics. It looks like that wide, swept grip would be very comfortable. Between it and the other bike with the shorter bars, which one is less “twitchy”?

 

[fdeck]

Thanks so much for this detailed info! My bike tech guy, who sold me the Orbea and put the new handle on it last year, told me that he doesn’t recommend extenders. He also said I had a limited amount of raising I could do before I’d need longer cables. But I intuitively like the look of the bars on the red bike in your pics. It looks like that wide, swept grip would be very comfortable. Between it and the other bike with the shorter bars, which one is less “twitchy”?

The red bike. The bar is a "Origin8 Citi Classic." One question is the diameter of your existing bar, up where it clamps to the stem.

 

[Reiska]

In the competitive road riding world, looks can really fool a mere mortal guy like myself. It`s all about " slamming the stem ". IME most of us mere mortals will only get lower back pain when the bars are too far away and / or low to reach. Whenever anyone asks me what kind of bike to buy, I allways recommend buying right size first, and if it`s about road / cc / road style gravel, buying the bike with a professional fitting service. IMO it`s money well spent, a bit like taking your teacher to the bass shop when purchasing your first bass.

 

[turf3]

In the competitive road riding world, looks can really fool a mere mortal guy like myself. It`s all about " slamming the stem ". IME most of us mere mortals will only get lower back pain when the bars are too far away and / or low to reach. Whenever anyone asks me what kind of bike to buy, I allways recommend buying right size first, and if it`s about road / cc / road style gravel, buying the bike with a professional fitting service. IMO it`s money well spent, a bit like taking your teacher to the bass shop when purchasing your first bass.

With drop bars, a standard starting position would be with the top of the bars level with your saddle. Racers, yes, they have the bars much lower than this. They're also young, flexible, and they have one objective - cross the finish line first.

Actually, for most people drop bars are BETTER for the back - sitting upright, all road shocks go straight up your spine, whereas in a more bent-over position the spine can flex. Also, the leaning-forward position allows teh big muscles of the lower back to come into play. For me, however, it's the arthritis in the neck that kills me and has driven me to raise the bars. Obviously anyone with an injury history (and over 50, we've pretty much all got one) has to take that into consideration, so for one person the upright position might really be mandatory and for the next it might really need to be avoided.

On occasion I drop the bars to where I'd have had them in my twenties and I can feel how much more power I can deliver to the pedals - but in fifteen minutes my neck is killing me.

As I've noted elsewhere, recreational cycling seems to have been turned into one of three things:

- Imitation road racers stuff their 40 lb. overweight bodies into Lycra like they were sponsored racers and then weave along in the traditional wrong gear

- Imitation mountain bike racers brag about how gnarly the trails are that a mountain goat wouldn't bother with but they rode (and then of course all the injuries)

- Or you buy the 50 pound walmart special and tootle around the neighorhood for 15 minutes after dinner a dozen times and then it gets permanently stored.

People like me, who enjoy sporty riding but without the need to emulate racers; who want reasonably lightweight bikes that're comfortable and versatile, don't find a lot of support either in internet discussions or in the stock on sale at the store.

 

[turf3]

...At some point you might find that the cables aren't long enough for further adjustment unless you install longer cables.
....

Cables are a consumable item. Put the type of bars that work for you, where they need to be, and then buy new cables if you need to.

 

[JBarz]

Actually, for most people drop bars are BETTER for the back - sitting upright, all road shocks go straight up your spine, whereas in a more bent-over position the spine can flex.

100% — I find the hunched over, butt out stance my drop bars afford helps counteract the C-curve in my spine from 30 years with a saxophone hanging from my neck 4+ hrs a day. Is physical therapy for me minor scoliosis.

 

[Chris Fitzgerald]

Actually, for most people drop bars are BETTER for the back - sitting upright, all road shocks go straight up your spine, whereas in a more bent-over position the spine can flex. Also, the leaning-forward position allows teh big muscles of the lower back to come into play. For me, however, it's the arthritis in the neck that kills me and has driven me to raise the bars. Obviously anyone with an injury history (and over 50, we've pretty much all got one) has to take that into consideration, so for one person the upright position might really be mandatory and for the next it might really need to be avoided.

Agree.

On occasion I drop the bars to where I'd have had them in my twenties and I can feel how much more power I can deliver to the pedals - but in fifteen minutes my neck is killing me.

Me too. My arthritis in the L4-L5 area also complains shortly after that.

As I've noted elsewhere, recreational cycling seems to have been turned into one of three things:

- Imitation road racers stuff their 40 lb. overweight bodies into Lycra like they were sponsored racers and then weave along in the traditional wrong gear.

Don't wanna start fight, but I see these folks a lot. 40 lbs. is sometimes on the conservative side around these parts. SMDH.

The other imitation road racers are younger and fitter, but some of these do this thing that I hate where they want to be treated like a car on the road, until they come to a line of cars stopped at a light; then, they act like a bike to move along the side of the line to the front and pull in front of the very first car to wait for the light to turn green. Many times I've seen a pair of riders ride side by side in a lane, then do this at a light. That isn't going to lead to anything good, and it poisons the well in motorists' minds for every other bike on the road, which is one reason I don't ride on the road if I can help it.

- Imitation mountain bike racers brag about how gnarly the trails are that a mountain goat wouldn't bother with but they rode (and then of course all the injuries)

I know these guys, too. But there are other guys out there like James, who go all out and don't complain.

- Or you buy the 50 pound walmart special and tootle around the neighorhood for 15 minutes after dinner a dozen times and then it gets permanently stored.

Sure. But there other types out there as well. I know more than a few folks like Francis who bike to work. My brother bikes for exercise and kicks my arse when we ride together, but then he is also known to go for morning 9-mile runs and has done so for decades. I like to ride for relaxation with audiobooks/podcasts/music (no spandex), but this means riding where there is no real car traffic. I don't often keep track, but an average ride is probably 10-20 miles with plenty of hills and plenty of coasting. It's about being out of doors and not trying to get anywhere but just enjoying the experience.

People like me, who enjoy sporty riding but without the need to emulate racers; who want reasonably lightweight bikes that're comfortable and versatile, don't find a lot of support either in internet discussions or in the stock on sale at the store.

I know some of this type, too. You're getting support on this internet discussion, I hope?

 

[turf3]

The other imitation road racers are younger and fitter, but some of these do this thing that I hate where they want to be treated like a car on the road, until they come to a line of cars stopped at a light; then, they act like a bike to move along the side of the line to the front and pull in front of the very first car to wait for the light to turn green.

Yep, either you're a vehicle, in which case you obey ALL the rules of the road, or you aren't, in which case you shouldn't be riding on the road. You don't get to run red lights because you're on a bike.

Read "Effective Cycling" by John Forester. There's a lot there, and a lot to potentially disagree with, but if you are going to take up vehicular cycling, you can't be an arsehole about it.

 

[fdeck]

People like me, who enjoy sporty riding but without the need to emulate racers; who want reasonably lightweight bikes that're comfortable and versatile, don't find a lot of support either in internet discussions or in the stock on sale at the store.

What I've learned over the years is that it's easier to find something close and modify it to my needs. And not give a hoot what it looks like. Also, the more particular you are about specs, the more expensive the bike gets. Bikes that are made with swept bars are either cheap cruisers, or expensive "commuter" bikes with all of the bells and whistles.

Like basses, I don't need a lot of new bikes. I got the yellow bike because none of my bikes would support all of the newfangled things that I wanted to try, such as disc brakes and wider tires. Throw in a modern drivetrain, and it was cheaper to buy a new bike than to build one up.

But the swept bars are an add-on, as is the saddle. The hard cob of a saddle, that the bike came with, was painful, and I threw on an ancient Avocet leather touring saddle that I got for $5 at St. Vinny's.

My preference for fit is a swept bar, that's relatively level with the saddle. So I'm not sitting bolt upright, but I'm out of the danger zone for aggravating my neck. The reason why we all have the same osteoarthritis in our necks is computer use, IMHO. The best thing I've done for my neck is to be hyper conscious about my posture at the computer, and to avoid GUI-intensive software. I can write code with my eyes closed.

 

[bassfran]

A beater with a belt!

I found this on my local CL recently and couldn't pass it up for the price. It's an earlier Priority 3 speed with a medium aluminum frame; the tires are kinda' shot, the gear box is a mess, (I'm just keeping it in '2-ish'), but I wanted something to roll around the neighborhood and not have to worry about. I'll tinker around on it after the season and probably convert it to single with a freewheel, if possible. The ride's softer than my regular bike and it has that city beater charm for easy slow trips to the store.

 

[james condino]

Is there no type of chain guard or flange to keep that belt from slipping off the front chainring????

My lights are charging and everything is set to avoid Friday night downtown at all cost. 'Heading out into the forest for a long night ride when all of the tourists have left for the day. I'll drink in a symphony of crickets, tree frogs, owls, and fireflies, plus if I'm lucky there will be large mammals. I came face to face with a bobcat last week and it has been almost two weeks since a bear. I'm hoping to repeat it all again for my regular solo Sunday evening half marathon night run. Running ups the game because I can't outrun the large mammals on their own turf! The more rowdy I get on stage, the more reclusive I get when the crowds go away...

 

[fdeck]

Is there no type of chain guard or flange to keep that belt from slipping off the front chainring????

This might be one of the ones where a groove in the middle of the belt engages with a ridge on the cog and ring to keep it centered.

With that said, it looks like a nice bike, and I'd enjoy trying a belt drive system.

The hub should not be too hard to service. With 3 speeds, the complexity is manageable. Lubrication and cable adjustment may be all it needs.

 

[bassfran]

Is there no type of chain guard or flange to keep that belt from slipping off the front chainring????

My lights are charging and everything is set to avoid Friday night downtown at all cost. 'Heading out into the forest for a long night ride when all of the tourists have left for the day. I'll drink in a symphony of crickets, tree frogs, owls, and fireflies, plus if I'm lucky there will be large mammals. I came face to face with a bobcat last week and it has been almost two weeks since a bear. I'm hoping to repeat it all again for my regular solo Sunday evening half marathon night run. Running ups the game because I can't outrun the large mammals on their own turf! The more rowdy I get on stage, the more reclusive I get when the crowds go away...

This might be one of the ones where a groove in the middle of the belt engages with a ridge on the cog and ring to keep it centered.

With that said, it looks like a nice bike, and I'd enjoy trying a belt drive system.

The hub should not be too hard to service. With 3 speeds, the complexity is manageable. Lubrication and cable adjustment may be all it needs.

Yep- a center groove keeps it in place.

James, your forest rides must be amazing. We used to take night rides in our forest preserve system here and they were beautiful mini-escapes from the everyday grind.

Francis, thanks for your encouragement. We just set up our workroom off the back porch and I finally have a nice organized space to putz around with projects again.

 

[JBarz]

Ya’ll got this hopeless consumerist gear nut internet/screen addict researching titanium, hydraulic disk brake’d, belt driven (!?!?) gravel bikes and “bikepacking” (instead of riding my bike or playing my bass, mind ye) in a moment of weakness.

This future is pretty neat, though, I’m not going to lie…

 

[fdeck]

 

[Ketbass]

View attachment 6983664

Just really begs the question, Why? Gravel bike by definition can and should go/do anything. Special lane? I guess it’s nice to have a bike lane at all.

 

[james condino]

As I've noted elsewhere, recreational cycling seems to have been turned into one of three things:

- Imitation road racers stuff their 40 lb. overweight bodies into Lycra like they were sponsored racers and then weave along in the traditional wrong gear

- Imitation mountain bike racers brag about how gnarly the trails are that a mountain goat wouldn't bother with but they rode (and then of course all the injuries)

- Or you buy the 50 pound walmart special and tootle around the neighorhood for 15 minutes after dinner a dozen times and then it gets permanently stored.

Don't forget about the new breed of E bike folks who live stream themselves in full power mode up classic hills and then spend 15 minutes taking selfies and congratulating themselves about being a local after living here for 9 months....

It is hot out there this week; take care of yourselves. I find it ironic how much of a tortured training season I have to endure right now so I'm strong when the best two riding months of the year hit us in September and October. Dr. said I got kidney stones from overtraining for a marathon during the hot season a few years back....not something I wanna repeat!

 

[turf3]

I think "gravel bike" is what we used to call a "bike". Say, Raleigh Super Course, Peugeot PX-10, 1970s Miyata, Takara, Surly Cross Check, etc. Normal geometry, ability to put 32 mm tires, even fenders.

I never had a bit of trouble riding any of those kinds of bikes on a gravel road, or even a fairly smooth forest trail. Trails with big rocks and roots, you gotta pick the thing up and carry it.

 

[Wasnex]

I think "gravel bike" is what we used to call a "bike".

AFAIK the most basic difference is the dirt-oriented tires.

 

[turf3]

AFAIK the most basic difference is the dirt-oriented tires.

So I can take a Super Course, put cyclocross tires on it, and it magically transmutes from "old road bike grandpa used to ride, but not me" to "hip new gravel bike"?

I swear, the marketeering in bicycles has gotten completely out of hand. We need less cheap money, so people will buy a "bike" rather than 7 different ones each for its supposed ideal use, and then they stuff their 40 lb overweight body into Lycra, slip on the insectoid goggles, and pretend to be Lance Armstrong (or whoever the marketeers have decided this week will be the equivalent).