Defretting ?

I have read this thread start to finish and am really interested in defretting my Westone ThunderII. It is an old Japanese (I think) little known number but I just got a Washburn which sounds a 100x better so I would like to convert it.
Anyhoo my question is, is there any difference between active and passive basses when considering this transformation and could I get some moral support if it all goes wrong, (counceling or help-line) as the model in question is 1 piece if I screw it up the whole guitar is gone!! :bawl:
 
Great thread everyone! I have a couple of questions, for which i can't find the answer:

1) On steps 5 and 6 of Chasarms' thread (http://www.geocities.com/charlesarms/), at what point (and where) is the glue applied. For instance, would I put some glue in the fret slot (after cleaning it) and then attempt to fit the wood in there?

2) If I want to use a radius block to finish my fingerboard as Hambone suggested in the 3rd thread, how do I know which radius to get? Also, will those that they sell at StewMac (http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Frettin...ishing/2/Fretboard_Radius-sanding_Blocks.html) work on my 6-string, which is wider, obviously, than 4-string necks?

3) What grades sandpaper are considered 'medium'?

Many, many thanks,
Aram
 
Petary791 said:
I'm trying to take mine out, and it doesn't seem possible without really messing up my neck. I mean, I tried all sorts of things, nothing seems to clamp on. What is your opinion on what to use?

Much thanks.

Some makers, notably Fender use a fret with a "T" shaped base, that will destroy your finger board if they're not pressed out from the edge of the neck. You might try to use a nailset (very small), a hammer and tap the fret untill it sticks out from the edge of the neck. Then you can grab it and pull it sideways out of the neck as opposed to trying to pull straight up out of the fingerboard.

Oh and since I'm new here and someone has already mentioned this sorry if I repeat old news.
 
catdriver said:
Some makers, notably Fender use a fret with a "T" shaped base, that will destroy your finger board if they're not pressed out from the edge of the neck. You might try to use a nailset (very small), a hammer and tap the fret untill it sticks out from the edge of the neck. Then you can grab it and pull it sideways out of the neck as opposed to trying to pull straight up out of the fingerboard.

Oh and since I'm new here and someone has already mentioned this sorry if I repeat old news.
Frets inserted from the top are more common, in my experience. What you need to do, if your frets are indeed hammered in from above, is to pry up the end with a knife blade. After that, you can get a grip with the pliers.
 
catdriver said:
Some makers, notably Fender use a fret with a "T" shaped base, that will destroy your finger board if they're not pressed out from the edge of the neck. You might try to use a nailset (very small), a hammer and tap the fret untill it sticks out from the edge of the neck. Then you can grab it and pull it sideways out of the neck as opposed to trying to pull straight up out of the fingerboard.

Oh and since I'm new here and someone has already mentioned this sorry if I repeat old news.

Terrrrible advice here, just terrrible!

The STANDARD fret in use today by everybody - not just Fender, has the fully rounded top with a perpendicular "tang" attached below. The tang has barbs molded into each side of it to help hold the fret in place in the slot. These aren't shaped like a fishhook barb. They look more like a shallow diamonds. They are merely designed to provide friction in the slot, not to "hook and hold" the fret in the slot as has been alluded to. Why don't they need to to be so severely shaped? Because frets are prebent before installation. The preshaping relieves most of the tension that would lift the fret from it's moorings. Only the ends usually are left to be glued down. And, YES, gluing a fret down is a very common thing, especially when a slot is a little too wide to grip the tang. There are even entire techniques built around gluing frets in.

Now, onto the idea of pushing a fret out the side of the neck. This is wrong in so many ways I don't know where to begin. The poster mentions using a nailset to punch the end of the fret so the opposite end becomes exposed to grab and pull. If one were to attempt this, one works against all of the strengths and advantages the fret has in this situation. You are pulling against ALL of the tangs at the same time and they are all engaging the neck wood at the same time. This makes it extremely difficult to pull. What that means, and this comes from doing this kind of work and being able to foresee the eventual, is that there will be some kind of accident if you loose your grip. Not good. Another problem is that as you pull, and assuming the fret is going to cooperate, you must pull in line with the contour of the arch of the fretboard to avoid lifting the entire edge. This is because as the fret slides out of the slot, it will naturally feed down as it's curve relates. If you don't pull that way, the remaining fret in the slot will cause lift the fretboard at the sides of the slot.

So, all in all, there's a lot working against you when you attempt this method. It's not a wonder why the world's reknown repairman Stewart MacDonald recommends doing it the other way...

Lifting the frets staight up offers many advantages. First, the builder only has to clear about 1/8" before the fret tang clears the slot - not an inch or two as the tang is being dragged along the slot. Second, only a short portion of the fret is lifted at a time. This means that it's easier to lift being that the resistance is cut into a fraction of the resistance the other method presented. Third. if done correctly (like ANY procedure) this won't damage the fretboard at all. In fact, I just removed the frets from a Fender style neck. Nothing at all wrong with the frets, I just wanted to replace the fretboard material so removing them was the first step. Using my specially modified straight cutting dykes (like the StewMac version) I was able to lift each fret out by grasping it in the middle of the fret and jerking it in one swoop. Each fret came out perfectly undistorted, without ANY damage to the fretboard and I was able to save the frets for use as repair fodder should I need them later. Of course, THEN I totally destroyed the fretboard getting it off the neck but that was going to be the case anyway :D

So, be careful about what you read and what you attempt. Always measure from who and where your information comes from and if it fly's in the face of what sounds like logical, sound advice, get another opinion and even a third if that's what makes you comfortable. Guitars and cars have so many myths, legends, and wives tales told about them that it's devilishly difficult to tell the truth from all the rest.
 
i could've sworn i posted this yesterday, but i can't find it and i'm new to the site (so i could be missing something completely at the moment), but uh, are there any specific things i should know before trying this on an acoustic bass?
thanks.
 
Hey 20one,

Not sure if you're still following this post, but I was halfway through the process of defretting my EDB500 4-string when I read your post (major coincidence). I filled the holes with epoxy and am currently using epoxy for the finish on the neck. Make sure you use tape, as described on the link provided in this thread. The ebony is VERY soft and I chipped out some pretty substantial chunks of fretboard. But I filled those in and I think it will play good. By the way, I used a curved wood-working chisel to get the frets out. I got it really sharp on a grinding stone first, it worked great, no indents. Lemme know if you go through with your project.
 
im new to the fourms so HI! im a little confused tho, after taking out the frets do u put little wood blocks in there place and sand them down or fill in the hole? if i fill it in what do i ues? and what should i use for the coats after im finished with ALL the defreting and sanding? jw thanks

JB
 
In lieu of marine-grade epoxy, what is the best polyeurethane to use for the fingerboard?

Also, will CA glue mixed with crushed mother-of-pearl in it look good for the fretlines or should I try something else? Thanks!
 
I was looking at the pictures Chasarms provided on his site and I was thoroughly confused due to lack of 'how-to' knowledge. I also had several questions, all of which have been forgotten. Is there any guide to defretting a bass that is incredibly specific (i.e. says where to get certain items and exactly what tools to use, etc.)? I would really appreciate the information!
 
Fillers are usually veneer of some sort. You can probably get them at a hobby shop, or wood supplier in your area, and you can deffinantly order them online.

The guide posted on the first page you said you read is all I used and came out with good results. I thought it was pretty clear. Mask off the frets, use fret pullers from Stew Mac to get them out, gently working one edge until it pops up, then slowly work them out down the width of them. Pull up, dont try and slide them out the side, that wont work.

Once out, cut strips of the veneer you get, long enough to fill the gap and then some, and tall enough that they come up a bit out of the slot. I glued them in with epoxy on mine. Once they were set, I used a razor blade to remove the excess on the top, shaving them down very gradually until they matched the board. I then clipped the excess on the ends with fret cutters. I sanded everything down with a radius block (also at Stew Mac), then applied an epoxy coating, very thin with a foam brush and sanded that down. Then I buffed it out with some wax and voila. Actually I also had to shave down the nut slots to lower the action. You can get nut files from Stew Mac as well.