DIY tips for cable management

This is just stupid, maybe point out to all the detractors who can't provide any reason that every single sodding cable bought in a retail setting started it's life as part of a huge spool of wire in a factory somewhere. So ask them, what part of cutting, and soldering two connectors on the ends makes this length of spooled wire unspoolable?

Muppets..
I use these - 12 20' cables typcially fit on. I went from repairing 8-12 a year to maybe 2. My experience. YMMV

BTW - these get used for about 110-125 shows a year - if that is any reference
 
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As already stated velcro wraps but at a push a roll of masking tape is a quick way of securing cables and is not to sticky. If you are also dealing with a lot of ac power cables or long lengths an option to consider if not the case already is going for rubber cable instead of pvc, it is a lot more expensive but compared to pvc rubber cable roles up easier, lies flatter and neater and is very durable in conditions of being worked with all the time, i have also found that pvc can be soft when new but seems to harden over time and in cold weather really does not want to cooperate.. Best of luck
 
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This is just stupid, maybe point out to all the detractors who can't provide any reason that every single sodding cable bought in a retail setting started it's life as part of a huge spool of wire in a factory somewhere. So ask them, what part of cutting, and soldering two connectors on the ends makes this length of spooled wire unspoolable?

Muppets..
That bulk cable spool in the factory has a core diameter somewhere between 10" and 16". The "consumer" spools rarely have cores more than 3" diameter. That's a big difference even if it is stupid.
 
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Heres an idea..Im not sure it would work, and Im not sure it hasnt already been suggested (Im not reading through 5 pages of posts to find out hahaha!). Maybe using a disc golf bag would be a good way to sort them by length, connector, etc. It already has dividers and it is made for discs that are roughly the same size as a coiled cable.

Edit: Google image link for those who may not be familiar
disc golf bag - Google Search
 
LOL!

Start by holding both ends of the cord in one hand (assuming the cord is straight) (like jump rope handles). Grab the middle of the cord, where it makes the 180 at the half way point, and fold it into the hand holding the two ends. I usually keep each fold a little shorter, so that I know the order for unfolding. Repeat until the cord is a convenient folded length - 2 feet +/- for overhand knot or 1 foot +/- with velcro. Easy peasy.

This is pretty much what I do and so far no issues or breakages .
 
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That bulk cable spool in the factory has a core diameter somewhere between 10" and 16". The "consumer" spools rarely have cores more than 3" diameter. That's a big difference even if it is stupid.

Yeah, that's at the factory. Last time I bought cable, about five years ago or so, I bought it at the local electronic supply house, came off of a spool with maybe a 3" core. Worked fine, in fact I believe my brother-out-law is still using that cable, maybe one day he'll return it to me...
 
Yeah, that's at the factory. Last time I bought cable, about five years ago or so, I bought it at the local electronic supply house, came off of a spool with maybe a 3" core. Worked fine, in fact I believe my brother-out-law is still using that cable, maybe one day he'll return it to me...
Sure, the cables may be spooled in the factory, but that is before they have soldered connections on their ends. Personally I wouldn't be worried about damaging the cable so much as the terminals which were never intended to sustain being wrapped around a core and knocked around like they would be during (un)spooling.
 
Any good tips for storing/transporting/sorting/using all the various XLR and 1/4" cables we all rely on? I'm starting to amass quite a collection, and my OCD is telling me I need to do a better job organizing everything...

Pics would be appreciated but not necessary.
I tried a few things over the years. What seems to work best for me is to keep cables as short as possible. Here's my setup
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i use a pedal wireless. A wireless eliminates the need to use a really long cable, having a pedalwireless allows you go wireless and use pedals without having cables run from a wireless in the rack to the pedalboard and then back to the rack. I have 3 foot long custom made rediculously thick speaker cables. The power chord from the Furman is maybe 6 feet long. The cable from my pedalboard to my rack is the longest I regularly use at 10 feet. And I have a 20' cable in the pouch on my rack bag just in case the wireless fails but I haven't had to pull that out in well over a year. Funny thing is other than the long 20 foot backup I never actually wind up my other cables. I just shove them in the back of my rack bag and zip it shut. Because most of them are so thick and they are shorter cables they don't get to be a tangled mess.
 
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I tried a few things over the years. What seems to work best for me is to keep cables as short as possible. Here's my setupView attachment 1003332View attachment 1003331 i use a pedal wireless. A wireless eliminates the need to use a really long cable, having a pedalwireless allows you go wireless and use pedals without having cables run from a wireless in the rack to the pedalboard and then back to the rack. I have 3 foot long custom made rediculously thick speaker cables. The power chord from the Furman is maybe 6 feet long. The cable from my pedalboard to my rack is the longest I regularly use at 10 feet. And I have a 20' cable in the pouch on my rack bag just in case the wireless fails but I haven't had to pull that out in well over a year. Funny thing is other than the long 20 foot backup I never actually wind up my other cables. I just shove them in the back of my rack bag and zip it shut. Because most of them are so thick and they are shorter cables they don't get to be a tangled mess.

I agree, keeping your cables as short as possible helps a lot. I have all rack stuff, so my bass rig (even though it's a 6 space rack and a 4x10 cab (with two additional powered 15s)) is very organized. Setup/tear down for bass is under 5 minutes once the equipment is in place. It's the PA stuff that really gets out of hand quickly.
 
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Sure, the cables may be spooled in the factory, but that is before they have soldered connections on their ends. Personally I wouldn't be worried about damaging the cable so much as the terminals which were never intended to sustain being wrapped around a core and knocked around like they would be during (un)spooling.

Sure, if you're placing the connector against the core and then wrapping over it, forcing it against the core of the spool, yes eventually the connector is going to give up the ghost. But why would you? These commercially available reels are made for a hose or extension cord, so one end is going to be connected to a power point or faucet, so these reels typically give you an access point into the core so you can do this. Push the connector into the core, wind, the outer connector isn't up against the core, and the effective diameter of the core is now larger. You can get more innovative as well if you are uncomfortable that the connector will have undue stress on it, but the point remains, use your eyes and the wrinkly grey thing behind them, and you'll be fine. As for the knocking about, it's gotta be less than the stress of throwing a cable across a stage (seen it done many times) or dropping a coiled cable on the ground...

Really, it can be done, I never will, I have 7 cables to manage, and 3 of those are spares. Even in the case where we provided PA and such, I still don't think I'd go this route... Any reel is more mass and more volume than the cables it supports on their own.

But like I said, if you use your eyes and brain you can make one of these things work, if your inclined to go down that road, which emphatically I'm not.
 
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I redid all of my cables, sort of, and color coded the Neutrik XLR with these:
Neutrik XXR-2 Colored Coding Rings for XX Series Connectors - Red

They not only help me identify cable length, but for mics, I give the same color to the same band member each gig.

Whole slew of them for different types of XLR, as well as 1/4"
Markertek - Search Results for colored neutrik

Truth be told, no real issue with 1/4" for me, as they're individual instrument cables - change the connector color, or for me, the cable color.

BTW, not that I have any horse in Canare's race, but I use both the GS-6 for instrument cable, and the L-4E6S for balanced cables, in different colors. Yeah, mostly black, but I like Red, and my guitar player likes orange for his MI cable.

Wrapped properly, and small velcro for each cable, and a large velcro to wrap at least 2 together of similar sizes/color/whatever, stacked into a backpack (just because my kids get new ones for school each year, I take "last year's" one).

Note: the BEST thing about the colored XLR, especially if you're running direct to the board, is you no doubt know which channel any given player is on, whether coming from a mic or DI.
 
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