Double Bass Endpin Battle Royal

This was the whole gist of the video, really. I wondered if it was a placebo. I the end, there were differences for sure, but in the trenches I'm not so sure it would be noticeable much. I have a (socially distanced) record date in a week--I might try both endpins and see what happens. Thank you for watching and for your input!!

There is definitely value, though, in us hearing what we want to from our instrument. When things sound and feel like I want them to, I play better, I lock in better, and I have a better time, which may carry over to music and other musicians and even audience.

So, we should never apologize for doing things with our instruments that make us feel better about playing them.
 
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I can imagine the stability when standing to be amazing! I had a ply bass as a loner when my neck repair was happening years ago, it had thick carbon pin, that was great.
My Chadwick has thin carbon pin, that I don't hate, but it will be my main bass when my other bass goes in for repair, I think one of these could change everything.
I have a 14mm carbon fiber endpin on my Chadwick that I got from Gollihur - sounds great and is very stable.
 
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Has it been verified that the common and popular Gotz endpin shaft is, in fact, made of "stainless steel"? (As stated in the OP's video above.)
Stainless Steel is NON-Magnetic, and my old Gotz endpin in the photo below is NOT Stainless Steel - see the Refrigerator Magnet (red arrow) sticking nicely to it in the photo below.
Maybe more recent Gotz-type shafts are SS? Mine is fairly sh***y common steel, I believe - very easy to file and cut with crappy hand tools.
Stainless Steel is a bear to work by hand.
Sorry to go all Metallurgical on this (interesting) Thread.
(Where is @robobass when you need him??)
See below.
Thanks.
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Well... I'll be....Maybe the Gotz IS a type of Magnetic SS?
From Google-land:
There are several different types of stainless steels. ... Due to this difference, ferritic stainless steels are generally magnetic while austenitic stainless steels usually are not. A ferritic stainless steel owes its magnetism to two factors: its high concentration of iron and its fundamental structure.
 
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Nice! Naive question: Is the hole for the endpin assembly standardized?

You mean the hole where the plug fits into the endblock? I'll bet there are a couple of different "standards" and myriad crazy variations on older basses... My Arvi has what must be a custom wooden plug there, but my Kimmel uses a New Harmony pin, which I'm sure must be pretty standard. I'd love to find out that they're literally using the same bore and diameter, but somehow I doubt it.

And of course, endpins themselves vary somewhat in diameter, too. 10mm, 1/2", etc?
 
I make about 12 different endpin types on my big old lathe: wood, steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, and titanium for one major reason:

-every single person seems to have a completely different preference directly related to how much time they spend reading on the internet and obsessing vs. how much time they spend practicing and playing!

But...it is a pretty small indulgence, so I encourage folks to experiment away in the same manner that I usually keep a half dozen materials and weights of tailpieces available for them to swap out and an equal amount of soundposts in different woods & materials. You can buy a very nice new endpin a lot cheaper than a set of nice strings, but how often do folks experiment with that end of the bass? We've got a whole forum of string addicts here!

Often I see a lot of contradictions, such as using a lightweight wood for the new endpin but mashing it into a very heavy ebony endpin socket that the tailwire attaches to, or with the New Harmony, they use a very nice solid carbon fiber rod but it goes into a piece of junk injection molded plastic socket that warps and deforms from basic string tension.

Often getting a new endpin also means cleaning up and reaming what may have been a very loose or worn out old tapered hole in the bass block. Without a clean, well fit junction, nothing transfers sound very well, so it is often that improvement that makes a big difference. My favorite humor is when they get a new bridge, new soundpost, new tailwire, and glue 3 foot of loose seams and then claim the improvement is from a $75 endpin swap!

In general, very lightly built responsive basses will have a noticeable difference from subtle changes while on an overbuild 5 string Kay you won't be able to tell the difference between a chopstick and a ten pound cinder block.

Can I repost this from last month? The piggyback multiple crutch tip stack on a 1/4" cello shaft into a small cello endpin pocketed into a 70 year old poor fitting bass endpin terminating into a poorly fit ovalized socket filled with mystery paper, cork, & sawdust gap fillers featuring an old coat hangar "tailwire". How much of the original sound do you think is transmitting through that mess??? Almost any change will produce a noticeable improvement.

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How about this "endpin issue":

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Nobody will argue the benefit of this improvement:

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A few customs, the first in African blackwood & 1" carbon fiber:

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One of my personal favorites, fixed length 1 1/8" titanium tubing and another 1" fixed carbon fiber from the "porn star" series, with the primary focus being tough and intentionally non adjustable for some folks who are extremely hard and aggressive on stage:

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A nice, solid endpin is one of the most important things you can do. That Gollihur pin fit my Chadwick and made it solid bass for playing and practicing rather than a just a great travel bass that has my set up.
My main bass had a goofy endin I had even rigged up with bike parts that was too short. After about 14 years I finally had a nice Gotz endpin installed and changed everything.
Endpins are productive to obsess about!