Fearful vs Fearless?

#41
allenhumble said:
Thanks for the input guys. I do appreciate it. I think I'm going to use ply for this "first" one and think of other ways to church it up. I've got other projects woodworking related that I can do for nicer woods at the moment.
I did read on some other sites that species of wood is important. Denser woods like pauduk and bubinga or Wenge would be good choices for cabs do to stiffness/rigidity but not on the lighter side. I may try this later on. I'm not looking to gig a cab like this. It would be specifically for my practice room.
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Cool. On my DIY website you can see some cabs I built using 3/4" "Europly," which is very heavy but quite pretty as far as plywood goes. You can always use prettier solid wood or veneer for trim, both of which I have also done.
 
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#43
popgadget said:
The Fearless cabs are not tuned quite as low as the fEARful, and the different drivers and crossover smooth out the the overall response. It's a very noticeable difference with full range program material. They are noticeably more compact and lighter.
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For those seeking a relatively flat, studio monitor type response, the True 3-way fEARful crossover is worth considering.
 
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#44
Here's the progress from my builder. Just needs the grill and I will pick it up next weekend ready for my gig Saturday night.
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#47
jlepre said:
Here's the progress from my builder. Just needs the grill and I will pick it up next weekend ready for my gig Saturday night.
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That shop looks vaguely familiar!
The best part is that I get to play through every cab before it leaves. Sometimes it seems like it's the the only chance I get to do any woodshedding, and as it's part of the QC process, I "have" to do it.
 
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#48
Well we all know quality control is a must and so I'm glad you are committed to going the extra mile. So what is your average QC time on each cabinet? I hope it's more than just a few minutes because that would be doing your customers a great disservice. So I toast you for your many hours of QC ....hip, hip hurray! I applauded your due diligence and I drink to you sir!
 
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#49
jlepre said:
Here's the progress from my builder. Just needs the grill and I will pick it up next weekend ready for my gig Saturday night.
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Congrats. It'll be a game changer. You have what i consider to be one of the best cabs on the planet.

Get some watts!
 
#51
jlepre said:
Well thank you. Can't wait to give it this Saturday with my Genzler MG800. Is 500 watts enough?
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400 at 8ohms if I'm not mistaken, but still:

Enough to give you all the volume you'll likely need, or enough to drive the F112 to its full potential?

Probably yes to first, definitely no to the second (which is probably a good thing if you value your hearing).
 
#52
kap'n kro said:
400 at 8ohms if I'm not mistaken, but still:

Enough to give you all the volume you'll likely need, or enough to drive the F112 to its full potential?

Probably yes to first, definitely no to the second (which is probably a good thing if you value your hearing).
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True 400 watts...I was confused with my STM-900, but still it pumps out some power. I'm sure it will sound thunderous.
 
#59
Dave Hill said:
I bet. Tell Paul Dave and Uncle Al said hello!
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Message received! And likewise

Doug Parent said:
Feel free to ignore if the question is too intrusive, but I'm wondering if you used a roller and if so, what size in applying the duratex? Or is it sprayed? Looks very even, excellent result!
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Yes I roll it, using a high quality 3/8 nap 9"roller. There is a bit of "knack" to get an even finish, the key is to be able to "feel" the right time for the final "texture pass" for each coat. I find that it's helpful to use an oversized roller pan and get a very even coat on the roller, and to make sure to keep the roller direction consistent.
 
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#60
popgadget said:
Message received! And likewise

Yes I roll it, using a high quality 3/8 nap 9"roller. There is a bit of "knack" to get an even finish, the key is to be able to "feel" the right time for the final "texture pass" for each coat. I find that it's helpful to use an oversized roller pan and get a very even coat on the roller, and to make sure to keep the roller direction consistent.
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Very good advice there. I've rolled about 6 cabs and I still feel like I'm learning how to do it right. Your finish looks flawless, that is no small feat. Of course it helps to roll on virgin wood as opposed to trying to cover up blems and gouges. There is a lot of time that goes into assembly and construction, especially if you want a flawless result. Great work.
 
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