Fender Player VS Vintera series

Got two Players - a J and a P - and they’re both great basses. For the value, they are really good. Some complain about the quality of the tuners or the bridge, got no complaints on my side. They’re super easy to play, and sound good too. Finish on both is good too!

When it comes to the pickup on the P, same, quite happy with it, although I’m considering putting an EMG GZR in it... just because it’s good!
 
The Vintera line has a pain in the butt truss rod adjust. You have to unscrew the neck a bit.

Just use a smaller screwdriver and be careful to avoid scratching the pickguard and you don't have to do that at all on the Precision bass. Have a three-ply guard instead? Just do what some guys did back when this style was the norm and cut a notch in it instead of having to take the neck out at all.

Alternatively, if you're me, you'll scratch the pickguard anyways because you forgot to eat lunch and your hands are shaking, but it's small and hard to notice so I'm not bothered.

EDIT: Can also pick up one of these and make it even easier for the Precision bass, but if you have one of the Jazz basses you'll either be removing the pickguard or routing a hole to do the adjustment.
 
If you don't want something that looks like an old style bass, the only reason to go with a Vintera is the old school radius and frets.

That is enough for me; I highly prefer them to the 9 1/2" and medium frets used on anything but reissues.

The Vintera fretwork is also better quality IME.

The fretboard is "where the rubber meets the road," so to speak. It's the thing on an instrument (other than looks) on which you should compromise the least, IMO. It's "baked in," i.e. difficult to modify, and it's where you really interact with the instrument.

Both are overpriced IMO. But the Vinteras more so. So buy a lightly used or floor model Vintera if you want the old school radius and frets. I got my Vintera '70s J from Cream City Music for $620 plus tax and shipping. That's 40 percent off retail, just because it was a floor model that they really wanted to move along. It had the pickguard plastic peeled off. Other than that, it was as new. That's the right price. I wouldn't have paid full retail, unless a G&G case was included.
 
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I don't see how you can defend the combination of the truss rod placement/no notch in the body on these "vintage inspired" models. It's not that it's difficult to do, it's just a huge inconvenience and setup takes 5x longer as a result.

I sold off my 60s Jazz mainly because the neck profile/radius felt awful to me but having to take the strings off, take the neck off, make a small adjustment, screw the neck back on, restring, check the relief 3 or more times was ridiculous.

You do you though.
 
I don't see how you can defend the combination of the truss rod placement/no notch in the body on these "vintage inspired" models. It's not that it's difficult to do, it's just a huge inconvenience and setup takes 5x longer as a result.

I sold off my 60s Jazz mainly because the neck profile/radius felt awful to me but having to take the strings off, take the neck off, make a small adjustment, screw the neck back on, restring, check the relief 3 or more times was ridiculous.

You do you though.

I get what you are saying. From a neck feel standpoint I prefer the vintera. I dont adjust the truss rods very often. Im used to it though takes make a couple of minutes. I work on all my instruments including guitars so im just used to it. Its a bit inconvenient but not inconvenient enough to stop me form buying an instrument I want
 
I don't see how you can defend the combination of the truss rod placement/no notch in the body on these "vintage inspired" models. It's not that it's difficult to do, it's just a huge inconvenience and setup takes 5x longer as a result.

I sold off my 60s Jazz mainly because the neck profile/radius felt awful to me but having to take the strings off, take the neck off, make a small adjustment, screw the neck back on, restring, check the relief 3 or more times was ridiculous.

You do you though.

With those basses, you shouldn't have to take the strings off (just loosen them and capo at 4th fret) or take the neck all the way off (just rock it out a bit); alternatively, take the thicker pickguard off and make a notch in it (no need to notch the body with the cross nut) so that you don't have to go to that much work ever again. It's more of a hassle than a hex nut down there, for sure, but both are a lot better for long-term neck longevity than having the adjustment at the headstock.

With the anodized pickguard, you don't even have to do any of that.

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Please ignore the patterning of the blanket that is on that couch, because I don't think it's been changed since I was about 7 years old. But the flat head of the bit is fully seated in the nut and can turn it with no trouble; you don't need to have one that goes fully across the nut to deliver the torque.

Definitely don't keep a bass if you don't like the feel of the neck, though, there's no issues with that.
 
With those basses, you shouldn't have to take the strings off (just loosen them and capo at 4th fret) or take the neck all the way off (just rock it out a bit); alternatively, take the thicker pickguard off and make a notch in it (no need to notch the body with the cross nut) so that you don't have to go to that much work ever again. It's more of a hassle than a hex nut down there, for sure, but both are a lot better for long-term neck longevity than having the adjustment at the headstock.

With the anodized pickguard, you don't even have to do any of that.

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Please ignore the patterning of the blanket that is on that couch, because I don't think it's been changed since I was about 7 years old. But the flat head of the bit is fully seated in the nut and can turn it with no trouble; you don't need to have one that goes fully across the nut to deliver the torque.

Definitely don't keep a bass if you don't like the feel of the neck, though, there's no issues with that.

And that's a rather "fat" and Rube-Goldberg-esque instrument. Use a #1 screwdriver, and you don't even touch the guard.

Some old Fender manuals from the '60s used to state exactly this. Use a #1 screwdriver on half the nut.

I have been adjusting old style truss rods on my and my dad's, and friends' and customers', basses for over three decades. Never took a neck off. Never took a guard off. Laid down the same Fender brand polishing cloth since about 1990 or so, and/or taped off as a precaution. Bent the neck where it needed to go before even trying to turn the nut. Never made so much as a scratch.

People can't seem to figure this out, though, and gored up their basses using poor technique and/or poor tool selection...so Fender actually changed their manuals to cover their own butts. Now everyone thinks you have to undo the neck to adjust the old rods...and thus complains about it.

There are more idiot proof designs these days, and I have nothing against them; they work too. But that doesn't mean that the old ones don't still work fine in the right hands, or that vintage-styled instruments shouldn't use the old style one.
 
Easy not to touch the guard with that one when I'm not letting it lay on it like that picture, but it's not what I normally use anyways. Just there for illustration.
Actually, I think on the Vintera series (and the others with a heel truss) they are reinforced with the Bi-Flex Truss Rod compared to the Player series rods at the headstock. What I read somewhere. More neck longevity. What I didn't like about the Player series was the weaker pickup (compared it to a MIM standard yesterday and the standard sounded way stronger) and the tuners are the Highway One tuners which I don't care for. I think the tuners on the Vintera are higher quality right?
 
Actually, I think on the Vintera series (and the others with a heel truss) they are reinforced with the Bi-Flex Truss Rod compared to the Player series rods at the headstock. What I read somewhere. More neck longevity. What I didn't like about the Player series was the weaker pickup (compared it to a MIM standard yesterday and the standard sounded way stronger) and the tuners are the Highway One tuners which I don't care for. I think the tuners on the Vintera are higher quality right?
The Vintera has vintage style reverse tuners
 
I’m looking to upgrade to a Fender MIM bass, and I’m trying to decide which one to go with. The Vintera is better looking (IMO) but also more expensive. So I guess my question would be, is the Vintera bass worth the extra $200 (New) over the player series? Is it a better quality instrument? Or would I be paying for gimmicks (vintage styling)?
I have a player Precision and chose it over the Vintera for the feel of the neck.
I find it much more comfortable for my hand. As far as quality, yea you're paying more for the retro styling, tuners and bridge.
But the build quality on my Player is excellent! It's a personal choice but I'd buy for feel over looks anyday.
 
Different neck profile.
The Vintera has fatter neck AMD wider nut width, Player has similar to Squier Classic Vibe pbass like neck profile which slimmer.

Different fretboard radius 7.5 vs 9.5.

The most notable different between both are stock pickup voice. The pup on Vintera truly awsome and beautiful. Player pup sound dull and worst than Squier Classic Vibe pbass stock pickups....

Hopehelp
I agree with everything you said but I beg to differ on the pickups. My Player has the new alnico 5 pups, not to be confused with previous gen MIM ceramics..
I have flats on mine and it sounds great to me..And, for reference, I also own an American Precision.
 
Are they better quality though than the Player series tuners?

They're a bit better, but I didn't really have a problem with the Player tuners. The big things for me were the vintage styling (just a great look), and the neck profile—I find the Vintera neck and radius a lot more comfortable, personally, than any more modern precision bass.
 
It's very easy for anyone who doesn't read every post in detail to mistake recommendations for the far superior and discontinued Chinese CVs for the Indonesian CVs. They are COMPLETELY different instruments even though the black CV70 looks almost identical. Not that the Indonesian ones are horrible, they're just nowhere near as amazing as the Chinese CVs and I think a lot of people are confused by the constant recommendations for the identically named, almost identical looking series that were discontinued 2 years ago and now only available on the used market.
Can we stay on point? The issue is Player or Vintera. Not Chinese/Indonesian anything.