Double Bass Help with Neck

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TLM

May 30, 2024
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I need to attach a new neck I have to my bass. The neck joint is too long and needs to be cut down so that fretboard wont be sticking out too far. I am probably not using proper terminology so please see picture. How far should the neck joint extend past the body? The pencil mark is flush.

IMG_0133.jpg
 
30-40mm

but, that is not a diy job.

you have to take into account the straightness L-R, the height of the heel which sets the string length, and the forward/back rake which determines the height of the bridge as well. And get a perfect wobble-free fit.

You have no fingerboard attached. So how are you going to do all that?
 
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30-40mm

but, that is not a diy job.

you have to take into account the straightness L-R, the height of the heel which sets the string length, and the forward/back rake which determines the height of the bridge as well. And get a perfect wobble-free fit.

You have no fingerboard attached. So how are you going to do all that?

Thank you for the numbers.

It was implied that this was a project. I am more than capable of gluing a fingeboard and cutting the neck to proper dimensions. I am not paying a luthier over 2k to work on a job that can be done by anyone skilled with tools. I called 3 different places and all of which they ballparked at least this amount maybe more. I am sorry, at that price I will just buy a new bass.
 
I am not paying a luthier over 2k to work on a job that can be done by anyone skilled with tools.

I understand the sentiment intimately. Just be aware that a lot can go wrong that's not obvious without direct experience, and this will likely be mainly a learning experience.

It appears you're working on a short-ribbed bass here. With less heel in the block, your joint will have to be especially solid. I would consider a little less overstand (25mm?) and a little more rake to get your bridge up to around 150mm. What's the block made of?

Edit: I'm also noticing that you have a flatsawn neck. You can ask around about that.
 
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Thank you for the numbers.

It was implied that this was a project. I am more than capable of gluing a fingeboard and cutting the neck to proper dimensions. I am not paying a luthier over 2k to work on a job that can be done by anyone skilled with tools. I called 3 different places and all of which they ballparked at least this amount maybe more. I am sorry, at that price I will just buy a new bass.

I am not a luthier and while there are a few setup and minor repair related things that I'm comfortable enough with tools to take on myself, i realize that the end result will totally be my responsibility and/or my fault.

That said, there are some things that only accomplished double bass luthiers, some who you have basically managed to insult here, have not only the tools and the forms and the supplies, but also have done the research and have the experience based wisdom to know how to do. True, it may be hard at first to know who in this forum has that true wisdom and who doesn't, but let me assure you that you and I are exchanging messages in this thread with true expert double bass luthiers.

There are a number of things not mentioned so far in this thread that are subtleties, yet absolutes of double bass life, which you may have no idea about. Unfortunately you may find out about many of them too late...

To save you some anguish in case you don't already know about it, let me mention what may be the most important subtlety in your situation, which is using hand formulated hot hide glue as your adhesive, specifically not using anything else that you may be able to buy in bottles at a store. If you use hot hide glue properly, with few exceptions no matter what you do wrong, it can be re-done correctly with minimal waste and damage. If you use any other glue, you will spend more time trying to clean that other glue from anything you have to re-do, in order to have healthy joints, than anything else you do.

Hot hide glue requires some simple inexpensive equipment, the powdered adhesive itself, water, and a lot of testing to get good experience before using it on your real project. While it may sound tedious, learning to use hot hide glue with musical instruments is a key to success, plus hot hide glue works well with most other woodwork too.

If you treat the luthiers here with genuine respect, and maybe drop some ego, you can probably get a lot of very valuable hints and help. We are here among giants, while they definitely don't advertise themselves that way.
 
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Oh boy. I'm a practicing mechanical engineer with 40 years experience in designing things with complex assembly angles, and I've been working with wood for over 50 years, and still I'd approach an adaptation job like that with trepidation. I certainly wouldn't cop a tude right off the bat. But you go right on ahead and we know that when the thing falls apart suddenly you'll be all quiet and stuff.
 
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I understand the sentiment intimately. Just be aware that a lot can go wrong that's not obvious without direct experience, and this will likely be mainly a learning experience.

It appears you're working on a short-ribbed bass here. With less heel in the block, your joint will have to be especially solid. I would consider a little less overstand (25mm?) and a little more rake to get your bridge up to around 150mm. What's the block made of?

Edit: I'm also noticing that you have a flatsawn neck. You can ask around about that.

Thanks for advice and input. I am aware of what I am getting into. My point of 2k being way overpriced amount for what I am doing. I am very skilled with woodworking and had I listened to others I wouldn’t have already successfully removed the broken neck. You have no idea how many people said, “only a skilled luthier can remove a broken neck”. Seems that there is just a whole lot of gatekeepers on here. Whole lotta hate for defending myself from a rude Aussie.
 
Oh boy. I'm a practicing mechanical engineer with 40 years experience in designing things with complex assembly angles, and I've been working with wood for over 50 years, and still I'd approach an adaptation job like that with trepidation. I certainly wouldn't cop a tude right off the bat. But you go right on ahead and we know that when the thing falls apart suddenly you'll be all quiet and stuff.

You guys are pretty soft if what I said offended you that much, lol.
 
Seems hard to blame a guy for posting a question on a forum that is all about helping people. 2k for a neck repair is crazy when you can go on eBay and snag a 50s Kay in good condition for 2kish. If that offends people, too bad.
 
Seems hard to blame a guy for posting a question on a forum that is all about helping people. 2k for a neck repair is crazy when you can go on eBay and snag a 50s Kay in good condition for 2kish. If that offends people, too bad.

You have done an economic calculation, which may be fair. You could pay a highly skilled luthier to do a job right, or you can decide that the whole instrument isn't worth that and put it in the burn pile. Probably better instruments than this one have ended up there as a result. If what you want is a 50s Kay in good condition, more power to you. But the people here (including a highly regarded luthier, I might add) are not being rude, they are being honest, and the advice they're giving is worth infinitely more than you're paying for it.
 
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You have done an economic calculation, which may be fair. You could pay a highly skilled luthier to do a job right, or you can decide that the whole instrument isn't worth that and put it in the burn pile. Probably better instruments than this one have ended up there as a result. If what you want is a 50s Kay in good condition, more power to you. But the people here (including a highly regarded luthier, I might add) are not being rude, they are being honest, and the advice they're giving is worth infinitely more than you're paying for it.

Only thing I asked for is one measurement. Then I get free advice of "how are you going to attach a fretboard" "how are you gonna manage the rake" etc. No offense but I don't need all this additional input. Seems like there are alot of insecure people on here that are taking great offense to the fact that a luthier isn't needed for all repairs. Do you ever work on anything on your house yourself or do you call someone everytime something goes wrong. Maybe thats how you guys do things but I try to fix things myself when I can.
 
Wow. I gave you the numbers you asked for and some free advice. And now I'm a rude Aussie! LOL.

but, that is not a diy job.

you have to take into account the straightness L-R, the height of the heel which sets the string length, and the forward/back rake which determines the height of the bridge as well. And get a perfect wobble-free fit.

You have no fingerboard attached. So how are you going to do all that?

I don't remember ever asking for this advice. And no, the wording of your post isn't rude at all, "so how are you going to do all that?"
 
One last thing, I honestly do appreciate the input of people who were actually trying to help. My intent was not to be rude and I have great respect for the trade. This is an old bass that broke about 15 years ago. It was sitting in my storage unit and I decided to start cleaning it out. I figured either get bass repaired or sell it as is. Did some research and realized with shipping costs, not worth selling. Called local luthiers, asking much more than what im looking to pay. Figured instead of throwing it out, maybe i could fix it. I'm not under the impression that the work or repair I am going to do will be as good as a professional fix. I never stated that. I just want to try to fix it well enough to be able to play it again. For what its worth, this is a forum based greatly around posting questions. Some of you guys might not want to be so eager to jump down someones throat for asking a simple question. Believe it or not, the internet was invented and with people having access to endless amounts of knowledge that were once not available, people are learning more and able to figure things out that were once "trade secrets".
 
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