you need the specs of the speaker. a drill. need to make a circle, a nail, a pencil, and a piece of string. Measure your cab. find the x point of where the center of the hole is mark it and nail the nail in the center. measure the string to the just of over half the circumference of the speaker hole. tie the string to the pencil and the nail that in the center of the board. pull tight and raw the circle. use the drill to make many holes a long the circle line. better than a saw. you'll have to sand stuff anyway.
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How to handle these (cab) dummies
- Thread starter therecluse
- Start date
+1 Make a template.
Use a "flush trim plunge template router bit with upper ball bearing"
Cut a piece of MDF taller and wider than the cab. Lay the cab on it's back and screw blocks to this to snugly fit the cab like a cap.
Take the template off the cab and cut the holes with a circle cutter.
Make sure the speaker fits perfectly on the template.
On the cab do a rough cut inside the line first with a jigsaw. The sides of the cab will be in the way - just stay inside the line.
Put thie template back on the cab and use a flush trim plunge template router bit with upper ball bearing to ride the template and cut the actual holes.
Pattern following router bits are used all over the place for music making projects. Like adding a jack plate. It's a good investment.
I 3rd the nomination for taking the time to make a drop in template that will fit flush with the front lip. It works well Ive done it on other cabs.
Christopher DBG
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- May 18, 2015
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- Luthier/Owner, Christopher Bass Guitar
There are these amazing things called hand tools out there. If you don't already own a jigsaw or reciprocating saw, cheapest way is buy a keyhole saw. You can have two 15" diameter holes cut in mdf in less than an hour. You'll spend 5 times that building jig for a router.
In the past, higher end cabs that were made of MDF (ya, I know) typically had plywood baffles. These days, inexpensive combos tend to be all MDF. The plywood is strong and helps when used for the baffle. An option is to cut out the MDF baffle, build a new one out of plywood and install it. Triangular pieces or poplar strips can be used as a frame to glue it in place.
Also, there's different grades of MDF, some stand up well, others can crack when dropped. I had a 3/4" MDF cabinet that the casters punched through, another much older pair of cabs are doing fine. So it depends on the type of MDF.
There is a tool called a trim router that's smaller and uses router bits. They are a bit bigger than a zip tool but can get into smaller spaces.
Also, there's different grades of MDF, some stand up well, others can crack when dropped. I had a 3/4" MDF cabinet that the casters punched through, another much older pair of cabs are doing fine. So it depends on the type of MDF.
There is a tool called a trim router that's smaller and uses router bits. They are a bit bigger than a zip tool but can get into smaller spaces.
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Someone's gotta say it:
Pretty sure that's on the edge of violating the Indiana Porn Law!!!Someone's gotta say it:
The good stuff looks like Masonite, and you machine it as much as you "Woodwork" it. Kitchen counter tops.
The white junk is more like heavy Styrofoam and breaks when cut. Cheap shelving. Needs banned from the universe
As one who does not work with wood, I simply salute the fact that the OP's time and elbow grease will save these boxes from further clogging a land fill.