PRICE! Plus, it's just for jamming. I really don't need anything stronger.
? All I know is that it still hums when I unplug my guitar.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
Welcome to TalkBass! Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
PRICE! Plus, it's just for jamming. I really don't need anything stronger.
? All I know is that it still hums when I unplug my guitar.
With the 115 it will be getting 4 times the power as each 10' in the 410 should not be a problem as far as power handling but you probably won't be able to hear it. The 210 each speaker will get twice the power as the 410. But only playing with 300 watts still should not pose a problem. Of the two I would go with the 210 but best case would be another 410 of the same make and model as the one you have .
I think we were talking about the hum intensity. You know me: I like to squeeze every ounce of life out of a component before it heads for the trash heap.
Riis
Like Two Fingers said on the last page ,if there are two jacks , they are almost certainly both multi directional. It doesn't matter which one you run to the amp or which one you run to the other speaker cab. As to running two different cabs (i.e. a 4 10 and a 15) this will send different amounts of power to the speakers in each cab. While it will probably work , it is not an ideal situation.
If you're going to grab another cab, get another headliner 410. You'll spread the power out evenly, you'll have apples to apples, and everything will get along better. Otherwise you're going to distribute power in odd ways and possibly be out of phase. Could also run the behringer to the 1810 and a more powerful amp to the 410, at the same price of another headliner.
If it hums with no input, and the input turned down, this is one of the few times suggesting a recap may be appropriate, and some control cleaner. If you pitch the amp for issues that trivial, it's good money down the drain . . . .
- Feb 12, 2006
- 52,447
- 176,650
- 14,248
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
It may also be a poor internal connection, common in that era Peavey give their current (and respectable) age.
It takes 10x the power to double volume... That 120 watts is (estimating here) about 2.4 dB difference! You wouldn't be gaining a lot if your 4x10 magically became 4 ohms
I said caps on *this* one due to age . . . I have seen numerous older amps have age related failures which make them noisy . . . not necessarily the main supply, but sometime in the low voltage (I have 5 Crest CA series amps, and 4 of 5 have needed this in the preamp power supply . . . ) Never been in an old Peavy, so if connections are a known problem, check that as well . . .
And yeah, I cringed at making the suggestion . . . .
And yeah, I cringed at making the suggestion . . . .
The bold statement is false. The 18 is a 4-ohm driver, and the two 10s are four ohms together (they are 8 ohms individually, wired in parallel for a 4-ohm load). When running full range, the crossover splits the signal between the 18 and the 10s without changing the 4-ohm total system impedance. To be certain, you can test your drivers with a multimeter. A 4-ohm driver typically reads about 3 ohms of resistance on a multimeter, since the meter reads resistance only rather than impedance. An 8-ohm driver typically reads about 6 ohms of resistance.
- Feb 12, 2006
- 52,447
- 176,650
- 14,248
- Disclosures
- Development Engineer-Mesa Boogie, Development Engineer-Genzler (pedals), Product Support-Genz Benz
Ok, here's a 2 days ago "bad cap" story... I was summoned to a problem with an expensive Yamaha installation mixer that we had installed a couple of decades ago, with the complain that the output lacked bass. After reading on the internet, he was POSITIVE that it just HAD to be a bad cap. He demanded that I replace every cap in the mixer, I told him that the odds were that he was wrong, though when I gave him a quote he said he could do it himself because he obviously understood this topic more than I did because he learned from "real experts" on the internet.
I asked him to bring it by so that I could at least run some diagnostics on it and identify the real cause of the problem. If it ended up needing new caps I could certainly take care of that but didn't want to do this without being sure it would fix the problem (which my gut instincts said it wouldn't). I ran the diagnostics and found the problem... it was simply an intermittent contact on the input pad switch on the ONE channel that he had been testing. Since this amp uses a balanced multi-position switched pad AND an input transformer, if one leg's series switch opens up the transformer becomes only marginally terminated on its input winding and you will get exactly this result. EVERYTHING else in the mixer worked perfectly, and due to the style of the switch (and NiAg contacts) it could be properly cleaned for a perfectly reliable repair. I tested a few of the caps and they were well within spec, no issues whatsoever.
Customer was happy the repair cost less than $100, but was pretty pissed that he was wrong and didn't take a step back to consider that MAYBE I might have a little more credibility than "most" internet experts. I was also a Yamaha certified pro audio tech back in the day AND I happen to own a dozen of these mixers myself.
There is no substitution for really understanding what's going on under the hood. A 1 hour repair with no parts versus an 8 hour repair with about $100 worth of parts is a big difference at my level. Is the mixer worth a full restoration? Maybe, but just replacing otherwise good parts just because it "feels good" is nothing but a waste. I have restored many of these guys for industry, where they remain powered up 24/7 for 20 years and they want to keep the identical infrastructure, but it MUST be recognized that this is about 175,000 hours of on time and I would expect some parts to be legitimately at the end of their life. I have a test amp (a Genz Benz ML-200) powering my shop system that is also an aging experiment, it's been powered up for the last ~5 years non-stop (that's about 45,000 hours) without any issues whatsoever, and the filter caps still easily meet design spec. If you were to play your bass amp 4 hours a day, 5 days a week for 20 years, that would be only 20,000 hours and even at that rate you would go through strings and frets pretty regularly.
I tend to design for a target of between 20,000 and 40,000 hours as a MINIMUM. As an example, since this came up recently, I used ball bearing fans in the Subway amps even though they are slightly noisier because they typically last a minimum of 40,000 hours (they are rated to 50,000 hours) whereas the sleeve bearing fans typically last between 10,000 and 20,000 hours (under favorable conditions). The slightly higher noise level is IMO a VERY worthwhile trade-off in the long run in terms of value to the player.
I asked him to bring it by so that I could at least run some diagnostics on it and identify the real cause of the problem. If it ended up needing new caps I could certainly take care of that but didn't want to do this without being sure it would fix the problem (which my gut instincts said it wouldn't). I ran the diagnostics and found the problem... it was simply an intermittent contact on the input pad switch on the ONE channel that he had been testing. Since this amp uses a balanced multi-position switched pad AND an input transformer, if one leg's series switch opens up the transformer becomes only marginally terminated on its input winding and you will get exactly this result. EVERYTHING else in the mixer worked perfectly, and due to the style of the switch (and NiAg contacts) it could be properly cleaned for a perfectly reliable repair. I tested a few of the caps and they were well within spec, no issues whatsoever.
Customer was happy the repair cost less than $100, but was pretty pissed that he was wrong and didn't take a step back to consider that MAYBE I might have a little more credibility than "most" internet experts. I was also a Yamaha certified pro audio tech back in the day AND I happen to own a dozen of these mixers myself.
There is no substitution for really understanding what's going on under the hood. A 1 hour repair with no parts versus an 8 hour repair with about $100 worth of parts is a big difference at my level. Is the mixer worth a full restoration? Maybe, but just replacing otherwise good parts just because it "feels good" is nothing but a waste. I have restored many of these guys for industry, where they remain powered up 24/7 for 20 years and they want to keep the identical infrastructure, but it MUST be recognized that this is about 175,000 hours of on time and I would expect some parts to be legitimately at the end of their life. I have a test amp (a Genz Benz ML-200) powering my shop system that is also an aging experiment, it's been powered up for the last ~5 years non-stop (that's about 45,000 hours) without any issues whatsoever, and the filter caps still easily meet design spec. If you were to play your bass amp 4 hours a day, 5 days a week for 20 years, that would be only 20,000 hours and even at that rate you would go through strings and frets pretty regularly.
I tend to design for a target of between 20,000 and 40,000 hours as a MINIMUM. As an example, since this came up recently, I used ball bearing fans in the Subway amps even though they are slightly noisier because they typically last a minimum of 40,000 hours (they are rated to 50,000 hours) whereas the sleeve bearing fans typically last between 10,000 and 20,000 hours (under favorable conditions). The slightly higher noise level is IMO a VERY worthwhile trade-off in the long run in terms of value to the player.
Andy, could you please move to my city (Hobart, Tasmania, Australia) & be my amp tech?
Please!
The ones I cited I think were either bad spec, or just bad parts. Both channels would get noisy on powerup, and then the mute relays would buzz/chatter. Schematics led me to one 470uF 25v cap in the 12v supply running the pre's and mute/protect stuff, which typically metered at 10 to 15uF upon removal. Replace it, all symptoms gone . . . 4 times. I've had old test gear lose supply caps as well . . . Not often, but electrlytics do age, and it's not like the 'bargain' mfg's always use top-shelf parts. (Sometimes it's amazing haw far out of spec parts can be an gear still work . . . ). But yeah, just did a preamp and turntable . . . switches gunky in the unit and too many tugs on the turntable cables broke both at the plus. Hummed like a monster. If this was gradual, i'd bet caps . . . if sudden, mechanical . . . .