Ibanez instruments are at the top at every price point, you can’t go wrong with any of them. What I would consider as a beginner would not be pick ups and electronics but whether you are more comfortable with a long scale bass or a short scale.
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wintremute
mediocrity at its finest
- Oct 16, 2014
- 6,358
- 25,895
- 6,141
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Langstrom Carrot Farms
Good idea.
Quick note on the Gio line. They're similar to the SRs, but their necks are thicker.
SR:
- Scale : 864mm/34"
- a : Width 38mm at NUT
- b : Width 62mm at 24F
- c : Thickness 19.5mm at 1F
- d : Thickness 21.5mm at 12F
- Radius : 305mmR
Gio
- Scale : 864mm/34"
- a : Width 41mm at NUT
- b : Width 62mm at 22F
- c : Thickness 21mm at 1F
- d : Thickness 22mm at 12F
- Radius : 305mmR
Also, for those suggesting the Talman, it also has a thicker neck.
- Scale : 864mm/34"
- a : Width 41mm at NUT
- b : Width 62mm at 20F
- c : Thickness 21.5mm at 1F
- d : Thickness 24.5mm at 12F
- Radius : 240mmR
Also in your price range, but you didn't mention, is the Ibanez SR Mezzo. I messed around with those at NAMM, and they seemed to hold up with the SRs. They're not full scale, though, so I don't know if that would be an issue.
- Scale : 812mm/32"
- a : Width 38mm at NUT
- b : Width 62mm at 22F
- c : Thickness 19.5mm at 1F
- d : Thickness 21.5mm at 12F
- Radius : 305mmR
When you say that you don't like the colors, what is it that you DO like? What would you prefer?
If you really plan on selling it down the line, then I suggest buying used if you can (so you can come closer to breaking even). However, I really suggest you buy the one that appeals to you the most. You may end up not wanting to sell it.
Whichever is the most comfortable in your hands. My first bass was a used SR500. Worked great for a long time.
I played a mezzo a couple of months ago and was pleasantly surprised. A lot of bass for the money!
IMO:
If you/someone can score a pre-1997 MIJ Ibanez SR series, you/they win. $250-$500 (USD). Hardly anything beats their Japanese Luthiers during that time. Rival ANY U.S. made instruments ($1,000-$1,500) today.
Otherwise, pound for pound Ibanez can pack a whole lotta bass into their $900 (USD) and under instruments.
Had one of their entry fretless basses (2016 Indonesia) for a bit to learn on. While I thought the pick-ups were a tad too hot and appeared to be brittle, the instrument was solid.
Entry level and concerned about finishes?
Clear coat it, done.
Good luck.
If you/someone can score a pre-1997 MIJ Ibanez SR series, you/they win. $250-$500 (USD). Hardly anything beats their Japanese Luthiers during that time. Rival ANY U.S. made instruments ($1,000-$1,500) today.
Otherwise, pound for pound Ibanez can pack a whole lotta bass into their $900 (USD) and under instruments.
Had one of their entry fretless basses (2016 Indonesia) for a bit to learn on. While I thought the pick-ups were a tad too hot and appeared to be brittle, the instrument was solid.
Entry level and concerned about finishes?
Clear coat it, done.
Good luck.
Would it be worth replacing the plastic nut with a TUSQ XL?
Also, are the stock strap buttons adequate? Or does anyone have any recommendations?
Also, are the stock strap buttons adequate? Or does anyone have any recommendations?
wintremute
mediocrity at its finest
- Oct 16, 2014
- 6,358
- 25,895
- 6,141
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Langstrom Carrot Farms
Not sure on the nut. I haven't had any issues with them.
The buttons seem to be fine, but I always use the Fender rubber washers, so I never have any issues.
I highly doubt you’ll hear any tone difference with a Tusq nut, and unless you can do it yourself, needs a pro to cut correctly. The buttons are fine unless you plan on jumping around a lot, in which case get some strap locks. If it ain’t broke.....
Slickdeals just posted an ibamez on sale:
Ibanez SR Gio GSR200B 4-String Electric Bass Guitar $145 + Free Shipping
Ibanez SR Gio GSR200B 4-String Electric Bass Guitar $145 + Free Shipping
Ibanez is a great guitar and bass brand with great value for the money, and they offer a lot of great bass models ranging from their cheap budget line to their high end premium basses.
There is no such thing as a beginner instrument, and just about any Ibanez bass would be a good place to start.
It's really down to your personal preferences, beginner or not, though I realize it is harder to know your preferences when you just started out and have little to compare the different basses to.
My best advice would be to visit as many music gear shops you possibly can and try out as many different basses as you possibly can, and then chose the bass you liked best.
Personally I would priorities feel first, how do you like actually playing it, how does it feel in your hands, cause there is always the possibility to upgrade the pickups if they don't exactly match your personal tone preferences, as long as the bass sounds great acoustically, very close following feel on the priority list would then be tone, and the final absolutely least important priority point when choosing a bass, ranging way bellow feel and tone, I would put looks, since playing an instrument is all about how good the instrument feels to actually play on and music is all about how it actually sounds, absolutely no legendary bass lines became so because the bass the bass player played on happened to look amazing.
There is no such thing as a beginner instrument, and just about any Ibanez bass would be a good place to start.
It's really down to your personal preferences, beginner or not, though I realize it is harder to know your preferences when you just started out and have little to compare the different basses to.
My best advice would be to visit as many music gear shops you possibly can and try out as many different basses as you possibly can, and then chose the bass you liked best.
Personally I would priorities feel first, how do you like actually playing it, how does it feel in your hands, cause there is always the possibility to upgrade the pickups if they don't exactly match your personal tone preferences, as long as the bass sounds great acoustically, very close following feel on the priority list would then be tone, and the final absolutely least important priority point when choosing a bass, ranging way bellow feel and tone, I would put looks, since playing an instrument is all about how good the instrument feels to actually play on and music is all about how it actually sounds, absolutely no legendary bass lines became so because the bass the bass player played on happened to look amazing.
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I thought it was ironic & funny on the first page when someone called the SR400EQM Premium. It's not, it's just a different finish from the SR300E.
I'm going to suggest two options, go for it & get a real Premium Soundgear, but get it pre-owned & save money. Here in North America they can be had for under $1k USD.
Here's mine:
Titanium reinforcement, Tusq nut, Nordstrand pickups, lightweight (under 8 lbs.), active/passive switch
The other option is to go super-cheap & get the GSR100EXMOL, which I also have:
The reason I suggest this one is because it's completely passive, but the pickup is high-output. I was playing mine today & reminded of just how LOUD it makes my amp.
Downside to the cheap one is that you'll likely have to replace the machine-heads soon, but you can get them from GOTOH.
It's also lightweight, mine is 7 lbs., & I've owned one under 6 lbs..
I'm going to suggest two options, go for it & get a real Premium Soundgear, but get it pre-owned & save money. Here in North America they can be had for under $1k USD.
Here's mine:
Titanium reinforcement, Tusq nut, Nordstrand pickups, lightweight (under 8 lbs.), active/passive switch
The other option is to go super-cheap & get the GSR100EXMOL, which I also have:
The reason I suggest this one is because it's completely passive, but the pickup is high-output. I was playing mine today & reminded of just how LOUD it makes my amp.
Downside to the cheap one is that you'll likely have to replace the machine-heads soon, but you can get them from GOTOH.
It's also lightweight, mine is 7 lbs., & I've owned one under 6 lbs..
Hey KbD, I'm honoured that you took the time to comment. I've seen a number of your posts and recommendations to others, which has really helped me a lot.
I totally agree with you. While the SR400EQM may look a tad nicer, it's really just a thin later of bling!! Yeah it looks kinda nice, especially on the Ibanez website, where they have taken the best possible example and then used high quality studio lighting to bring out the best possible look. But it isn't quite that nice in reality.
Anyway, it was your advice and recommendations that made me consider an SR1820 for a silly price, but sadly it was ex-demo and I've had enough of been F'd about with used models advertised as new.
So I'm going to buy a budget bass to get started and then wait to see what Ibanez offer in the new year.
Thanks for your time and opinion.
Don't get the GSR200 is my advice, stick with a GSR100 with the single humbucker.
I can't stand the Phat-II controls on the GSR200.
That Power-Pole humbucker sounds lush!
I've had some experiences with the Standard SR necks & machine-heads that make me want to swerve them.
The neck on the GSRs are a little thicker.
I can't stand the Phat-II controls on the GSR200.
That Power-Pole humbucker sounds lush!
I've had some experiences with the Standard SR necks & machine-heads that make me want to swerve them.
The neck on the GSRs are a little thicker.
May I ask which SR models you are referring to? As they have changed the materials over the past 10 years. I'm of the understanding that the latest model is quite a step up.
Standard is everything between the GIO (GSR) & Premiums.
The majority of them have flimsy necks & their machine-heads are bound to fail.
This is why the Titanium reinforcement is so important, as well as the GOTOH machine-heads, on the Premium & Prestige.
The GSR have a slightly thicker neck, which helps, but their machine-heads are just as bad.
If you're going to buy a Standard SR, get one built on or before 2012.
or figure out how to check the neck for stiffness before purchase, and know you'll probably be buying new machine-heads for it
The majority of them have flimsy necks & their machine-heads are bound to fail.
This is why the Titanium reinforcement is so important, as well as the GOTOH machine-heads, on the Premium & Prestige.
The GSR have a slightly thicker neck, which helps, but their machine-heads are just as bad.
If you're going to buy a Standard SR, get one built on or before 2012.
or figure out how to check the neck for stiffness before purchase, and know you'll probably be buying new machine-heads for it
So any current SR bass is questionable? From the SR300 up to the SR870?
I hope to upgrade to a premium at some point, but I'm really not an OG gangster type, I much prefer matt black.
Plenty of people have zero complaints about Standard Soundgear necks, but if you're going to be doing any down-tuning a stiff neck is important.
I might start on C Standard songs tomorrow & work my way up to E Standard over the week, which I can do w/o needing to adjust the truss-rods.
Also IME, a stiffer necks improves the sound of the instrument!
You can check how stiff the neck is, just bring your own tuner to try out the candidate.
If it's already set up correctly in E Standard, downtune to C# or C Standard & see if it remains playable.
If the strings are laying on the fretboard, it's not playable & has a flimsy neck.
I had a SR300EB that couldn't go lower than D Standard & a SR600 that was even worse.
I've lost count of how many Standard machine-heads have failed on me.
I might start on C Standard songs tomorrow & work my way up to E Standard over the week, which I can do w/o needing to adjust the truss-rods.
Also IME, a stiffer necks improves the sound of the instrument!
You can check how stiff the neck is, just bring your own tuner to try out the candidate.
If it's already set up correctly in E Standard, downtune to C# or C Standard & see if it remains playable.
If the strings are laying on the fretboard, it's not playable & has a flimsy neck.
I had a SR300EB that couldn't go lower than D Standard & a SR600 that was even worse.
I've lost count of how many Standard machine-heads have failed on me.
Thanks, I really do appreciate you taking the time to advise me. Just out of interest, is there anything else in the same price range of the SR300/370/400 that you would suggest?