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Most likely the preamp has a fixable issue--something as simple as a cracked solder joint. Pickups usually need some kind of physical damage or intense sweat/flood corrosion to fail.
I was gifted a dysfunctional early '90s Ibanez with 2 channel active EQ and their Lo-Z PJ pickups, and it's control cavity is the definition of spaghetti wiring. Found the bad connection in just a few minutes with a flashlight and some patience.
I was gifted a dysfunctional early '90s Ibanez with 2 channel active EQ and their Lo-Z PJ pickups, and it's control cavity is the definition of spaghetti wiring. Found the bad connection in just a few minutes with a flashlight and some patience.
I go with those who say keep it for the eggonomics and quality build. If you like active the Audere pre's are amongst a few that people here really love. For me I would put in a Nordstrand PJ set wire it volume, blend and a tone on each pickup. There are choices for a more modern and a vintage style sound. With my Nordstrands I would not mind my bass being passive only. The EMG's have their fans too though.
Here's a few extra ideas for passive only,
The toggle switch to choose between a traditional tone pot and the choice of a Fender Greasebucket type tone circuit (which apparently preserves your gain as you wind off the treble much like what your Ibby would actually do now)
A second switch or push pull pot for parallel/series.
Here's a few extra ideas for passive only,
The toggle switch to choose between a traditional tone pot and the choice of a Fender Greasebucket type tone circuit (which apparently preserves your gain as you wind off the treble much like what your Ibby would actually do now)
A second switch or push pull pot for parallel/series.
JeezyMcNuggles
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Just re wire it. Ibanez is notorious for shotty solder joints.
My first thought echoes many others, in that I recall SR800s being really good basses back in the 1990s. Weren't they a staple instrument among working/touring musicians? If you feel viscerally that this is your "forever bass" for its playability and construction, then I would invest in upgrading the electronics.
I remember back in 2010 I was looking for a backup bass in the $500 range and encountered a preowned LTD HTB-600 for $200 or $250. It was sitting in the corner of a music shop, covered in dust, and with chipping paint. So I figured, "Ehh, why not?" and picked it up. It had quality components and was a nicer instrument worth more than its asking price. It just needed some love. So I bought it, had a luthier/airbrush artist swap out the electronics (active EMGs for passive Duncans), and give it a sick paint job. The whole thing exceeded my $500 budget, but not exorbitantly so, and I got something special that I'll keep forever.
Despite having had some nicer instruments pass through my hands, that LTD has become one of my mains. I've toured up and down the east coast with it. I've thought about retiring it, but it doesn't want to retire. While it's not my favorite bass, it's easily one of the best sounding basses I've ever owned (and now the best looking). I plan to take that bass with me to the afterlife.
I currently own only 2 basses (that LTD and a Carvin SB5000) and though I love that SB (it is an infinitely superior bass with great tone, slick playability, and is my go-to/workhorse since I primarily play 5-string)... I still prefer the tone of my LTD.
Moral of the story is that there's no "shame" (for lack of a better word) in hot rodding a less expensive bass, especially if it's a steakhouse bass you got at preowned at a White Castle price.
I remember back in 2010 I was looking for a backup bass in the $500 range and encountered a preowned LTD HTB-600 for $200 or $250. It was sitting in the corner of a music shop, covered in dust, and with chipping paint. So I figured, "Ehh, why not?" and picked it up. It had quality components and was a nicer instrument worth more than its asking price. It just needed some love. So I bought it, had a luthier/airbrush artist swap out the electronics (active EMGs for passive Duncans), and give it a sick paint job. The whole thing exceeded my $500 budget, but not exorbitantly so, and I got something special that I'll keep forever.
Despite having had some nicer instruments pass through my hands, that LTD has become one of my mains. I've toured up and down the east coast with it. I've thought about retiring it, but it doesn't want to retire. While it's not my favorite bass, it's easily one of the best sounding basses I've ever owned (and now the best looking). I plan to take that bass with me to the afterlife.
I currently own only 2 basses (that LTD and a Carvin SB5000) and though I love that SB (it is an infinitely superior bass with great tone, slick playability, and is my go-to/workhorse since I primarily play 5-string)... I still prefer the tone of my LTD.
Moral of the story is that there's no "shame" (for lack of a better word) in hot rodding a less expensive bass, especially if it's a steakhouse bass you got at preowned at a White Castle price.
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I literally LOL'ed. I didn't just read it, I sang it like the jingle when I saw it..
But yea, If you're likin the bass, then you must replace....the electronics (or should I say circuitry?).
T$
I literally LOL'ed. I didn't just read it, I sang it like the jingle when I saw it..
I always wondered; shouldn't it be, "Safelite repairs, Safelite replaces"???
"Safelite replace" actually makes no sense at all, certainly not in a grammatical sense.
So for starters I would like to see a picture of the bass as I have two of these myself from the 90's and both were made in Japan not Korea. If that's the case for you these are great basses. As others have stated here check the battery and if all else fails replace the PUPS with some nice EMG's. I have on of my SR800's with EMG's wired 18v with no pre and the other with the original PUPS and Mighty Mite pre in it. Both are amazing sounding and have killer fast necks.
I have an SR890 from 93 that the AFRs fried in 97, so I replaced all with EMGs (looking to try Barts, as I've grown out of the ol EMGs). Rest of the bass is great, just wasn't impressed with the electronics (I know - sacrilegious, as many love the AFRs). Def worth upgrading if you like the rest of it. Just now to go through the fun of what to put in it...
I hate it (as you evidently do) when people start threads and then are never seen again, but in this case it's been less than 24 hours since his OP. Give the guy a break, huh?
I went with Dimarzio Model P/J pickups and mine sounds truly great in the mix. Hum canceling and $130 new for the set. That and the Audere classic preamp and it would be less than $300 for a complete overhaul that would sound great! If you want a more vintage vibe you could go with the Dimarzio Area P/J set - still $130 and also hum canceling.
For 300 bones I'd do a Yamaha TRBX204 instead. Nice bass with the bonus of having a brand new axe with zero issues.
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. My bass has made in Korea on the back of the headstock and made in Japan GOTOH on the tuners the Serial number is c5051783. I think this was made when they first started making them Korea. Two of the four pots are stacked and the lower one is workable but bent. Pickups say AFR-p and AFR-J.
I am not a repairman but this may be a good bass to mess with. I will check with a different repairman but saying its fried was really my simple translation of what he said.
Will some of the pickups you mentioned drop in or will there be routing involved? Do the stacked pots complicate thins to much? I really would rather just keep it simple and don't mind a configure change. Is there such a thing as plug and play available now (meaning little or no soldering)?
If I convert it to passive would it be just a matter of rerouting wires away from active board-I realize pu's are not active.
While I've never been a tech and this is a lower end bass this is not my first instrument. I got away from bass playing the last few years and have been playing guitar (Martin and Fender, G&L). My favorite basses I've owned was a USA Tobias Killer B and Fender Jazz. I play many styles but gravitate toward country rock and blues. I do occasionally pop the strings. Of the things you've mentioned what reasonably priced pickups would get me closer to a Fender sound on this Ibanez?
I am not a repairman but this may be a good bass to mess with. I will check with a different repairman but saying its fried was really my simple translation of what he said.
Will some of the pickups you mentioned drop in or will there be routing involved? Do the stacked pots complicate thins to much? I really would rather just keep it simple and don't mind a configure change. Is there such a thing as plug and play available now (meaning little or no soldering)?
If I convert it to passive would it be just a matter of rerouting wires away from active board-I realize pu's are not active.
While I've never been a tech and this is a lower end bass this is not my first instrument. I got away from bass playing the last few years and have been playing guitar (Martin and Fender, G&L). My favorite basses I've owned was a USA Tobias Killer B and Fender Jazz. I play many styles but gravitate toward country rock and blues. I do occasionally pop the strings. Of the things you've mentioned what reasonably priced pickups would get me closer to a Fender sound on this Ibanez?
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Thanks for the suggestion. I am considering walking away from this one-but it has a great feel.
Thanks. I did hear that if the preamp fails it could screw up the other components. Is that true?