Is there a way to improve B string on Fender Jazz?

[LowBSix]

Stringing the 'B' through the body adding a brass nut and changing the pickups will make a Fender sing! I've had American Standard P5 and J5. I put NORDSTRAND pickups in both and they were stellar! I'm now using ULYATE 'Tic-Tac' pickups on a D. Lakin 5 string and it's incredibly bold.

 

[Marlon Carbone]

Some things you can try... but you may just be putting lipstick on a pig:

Make sure the bridge saddle is cut properly. If it's just a round barrel that the string is sitting on, you might consider filing a little bit of a "V" slot. This should help the string transfer energy better.

Replace the bridge with a high-mass bridge. This should help transfer the energy to the body better.

Replace the nut with something more substantial/nicer. Make sure the B string isn't loose in the nut slot. Maybe even go with a brass or aluminum nut. This will help transfer energy to the neck better.

Set (glue) the neck. This will help the whole bass work as a single unit. Understand that this may make the bass sound darker.

Replace the neck. Maybe go with a graphite neck or, I think, Warmouth makes replacement necks that are pretty nice.

Don't know if any of these is worth the cost or effort but, if you're dead set on keeping the bass, these things may help.

 

[Beejay772]

I have a Fender v delux 5er and the b string is great.

 

[bleedingfingers]

I have 2 American standard jazz 5s 2000 and 2001 with the 5 inline tuners
One is active one is passive active one has Bartolini dual coils with John East pre passive one has Nordstrand dual coils .
Active one goes to work passive one stays home .
Both have ash body's.
Both have aluminium b style hipshot Bridges and are not strung through the body.
I used to run taper wound strings 45-125 and that works great but now run DR. Hi-Beam s 45-125
For what I play the b sounds fine and I try to use it as little as possible anyway .
I've had a G&L 5 that was also good and another handbuilt 5 string furniture bass but like Fenders .
I have played all kinds of high end fives a lot of them have great sounding b strings but don't balance with the rest of the strings so not for me .
First met Sheldon Dingwall when he worked in Hel Music In Saskatoon he's a nice guy super smart and a great Craftsman
and I think his basses sound great but just not for me . ( I know I know don't look at the fingerboard lol)

I bought my basses because they played and felt good then added the upgrades I wanted
they already had graphite stiffeners in the necks light ash bodies 34 inch scale necks and sound and play like Fender Jazzes.

 

[bottomzone]

Buy a Sire V7 5! The low B is killer and the sustain is the best of any bolt-on bass I've ever played!

 

[Jinobass1]

That’s why Fender made American Deluxe, American Elite and American Ultra 5 sting Basses. They don’t have that problem.
and Last but not least the Marcus Miller 5 string.

 

[Newby6string]

Hi Everyone,

I bought a second-hand MIA 5-sting Jazz. I think it's the "standard" model (came with passive electronics). Love the look and playability, but:

The GDAE strings sound great, bright and punchy, just they way I thought they would be. The B string - poop. So bad that the tuner had troubles picking up any notes. If the tuner can't hear it then neither can I.

I read somewhere (probably on TB) that for the standard series Fender just added an extra string and didn't update the electronics. So I went on a quest and fitted it with Lindy Fralin pickups and John East preamp, which as you expect wasn't a cheapo fix.

It helped a lot I must say. The B string now exists and has some bottom, but still bleak and wimpy sounding compared to the other 4. No sustain either. I have other 5 string basses and, as you'd expect, the B string varies between them, but none of them is as bad as the Fender.

Is my bass faulty or is this how 5 string Jazz basses are? If it's faulty - what should I look into? Changed pickups, put a preamp in, changed strings a few times, did the setup a few times. Tightened all the bolts. Didn't seem to fix it. Could the body and/or neck be defective?

TIA

 

[Newby6string]

I had a similar issue with my Ibanez GVB 36. The B string just sounded off and did not ring like the other strings. My solution was to move to lighter gauge round wound strings. My B string was a .125 and it is now a .110 and it sounds much better including the intonation. I like really like light gauge strings so .025 to .110 really works well for me and my 6 string bass.

 

[PhatBottomBass1]

My next two basses are almost certainly going to be Warmoth versions of Fender 5-string Jazz Basses, at 34". But, I plan (right now, anyway) to tune them DGCFBb.

My main bass for 18 years was a 1992 Fender Jazz Bass Plus V Ash, Fender's first true 5-string bass. Maybe the Lace Sensors and Kubicki preamp helped.

I definitely understand what you mean about the string-to-string difference, but that never bothered me much. I was more concerned about the lack of fundamental in anything below low D.

Everything is a trade-off!

I've mentioned in another thread about the Warmoth manufactured Jazz Bass "tight lil unit" I'm doing right now. I'm just about finished. Have to shorten the two lowest string intonation screws and clip the springs on a 2TEK to get the Low A/E strings to strobe on the 34" scale 4 string bridge. AEAD tuning. (The custom knobs are being made right now.)

I used EMG X Series 35P4A-RC neck and 35CS-TW-R bridge & BTS. Ran it through a Trickfish Trilobite no other processing/cabinet and it sounds like a warmer Spector 5. The Low A is MASSIVE!

The Bass SET-UP allows it work, the Taper Core strings help it work and the steel reinforcing on the 1/4 sawn (Maple - like Spector) makes it work! I'm also enjoying the 2TEK in the mix, too!!

It's bullet proof!

Pics as soon as the knobs are on it...

Pound for pound in a traditional bolt-on Bass, WARMOTH can't be beat...if ya have someone who knows what they are doing...

Also, amplification helps, a lot!

 

[MARICOPAA]

One of the most effective ways to brighten and get a more defined low ‘B’ string is to:

• Use an ‘exposed core’ style ‘B’ string

...and

• Use a lower gauge’B’ string...try a .123 to .125 exposed core ‘B’ string

NOTE: This works best if your E/A/D/G strings are normal non-exposed core strings.

You’ll have raise your low ‘B’ bridge piece by a little to get the top of the string into your favorite string height/radius perspective...might have Re-intonate as well...some yes/some no

Once the new string-zing has worn off (gotta play her a fair amount to get the string to settle down)...you’ll have to re-evaluate bottom of the new ‘B’ string to the top of ‘B’ string side your pickup to dial just the right sonic ratio.

A little trial-and-error and you have a good shot at having better 5-string balance.

Hope this helps!

==================>

Hi Everyone,

I bought a second-hand MIA 5-sting Jazz. I think it's the "standard" model (came with passive electronics). Love the look and playability, but:

The GDAE strings sound great, bright and punchy, just they way I thought they would be. The B string - poop. So bad that the tuner had troubles picking up any notes. If the tuner can't hear it then neither can I.

I read somewhere (probably on TB) that for the standard series Fender just added an extra string and didn't update the electronics. So I went on a quest and fitted it with Lindy Fralin pickups and John East preamp, which as you expect wasn't a cheapo fix.

It helped a lot I must say. The B string now exists and has some bottom, but still bleak and wimpy sounding compared to the other 4. No sustain either. I have other 5 string basses and, as you'd expect, the B string varies between them, but none of them is as bad as the Fender.

Is my bass faulty or is this how 5 string Jazz basses are? If it's faulty - what should I look into? Changed pickups, put a preamp in, changed strings a few times, did the setup a few times. Tightened all the bolts. Didn't seem to fix it. Could the body and/or neck be defective?

TIA

 

[L-1329]

Didn’t read this whole thread but everyone saying try a thinner gauge string is correct. Ever wonder why the other four strings sound good on the same neck? If a string is too thick for the scale you’re going to get into warble tone/harmonic territory and it will sound unpleasant. The warbly harmonics are also what throws off a digital tuner. Put a thin B string on and hear how it sounds. Forget about string tension, it will be slightly looser feeling but still easily playable with better tone. And in the end, the sound is all that matters. Leave the thick strings to the piano’s.

 

[FunkHead]

Didn’t read this whole thread but everyone saying try a thinner gauge string is correct. Ever wonder why the other four strings sound good on the same neck? If a string is too thick for the scale you’re going to get into warble tone/harmonic territory and it will sound unpleasant. The warbly harmonics are also what throws off a digital tuner. Put a thin B string on and hear how it sounds. Forget about string tension, it will be slightly looser feeling but still easily playable with better tone. And in the end, the sound is all that matters. Leave the thick strings to the piano’s.

I fully agree with this. One of the best B strings I ever had was the tapered 125 that came on my Sadowsky. That bass had perfect balance from string to string. However, the 136 Thomastic Infeld b string is pretty great sounding too. TI flats are so nice on a 5 string. 34” scale is just fine IME with multiple basses.

 

[Doug4321]

IME on four strings.... the crappy E string can be an effect of a stiff but low tension string. Maybe explains some B string problem. Every time I’ve played a 5 in a store the B sounded bad. Like problematic E only worse.

It’s similar to the bad tone, tuning and harmonics when a string is not tuned up to pitch.

I’d look for a high tension but flexible string. Like round core round wound in a heavier gauge. However, lighter gauge strings are more flexible than heavier gauge, so just going lighter gauge could help too.

 

[two fingers]

Hi Everyone,

I bought a second-hand MIA 5-sting Jazz. I think it's the "standard" model (came with passive electronics). Love the look and playability, but:

The GDAE strings sound great, bright and punchy, just they way I thought they would be. The B string - poop. So bad that the tuner had troubles picking up any notes. If the tuner can't hear it then neither can I.

I read somewhere (probably on TB) that for the standard series Fender just added an extra string and didn't update the electronics. So I went on a quest and fitted it with Lindy Fralin pickups and John East preamp, which as you expect wasn't a cheapo fix.

It helped a lot I must say. The B string now exists and has some bottom, but still bleak and wimpy sounding compared to the other 4. No sustain either. I have other 5 string basses and, as you'd expect, the B string varies between them, but none of them is as bad as the Fender.

Is my bass faulty or is this how 5 string Jazz basses are? If it's faulty - what should I look into? Changed pickups, put a preamp in, changed strings a few times, did the setup a few times. Tightened all the bolts. Didn't seem to fix it. Could the body and/or neck be defective?

TIA

Fender Stealth String Retainer. You're welcome.

 

[mikeswals]

I recently had gone through this with my Squier Jazz V. Not sure what strings you are using, but I use DR LoRiders and the B wasn't cutting it for me. Very muddy and undefined which really surprised me. It was a .130.

I purchased a single D'addario ProSteel .145 tapered B (~12$) and that helped a lot. I am liking the tension and sound from it now.

I'd suggest trying larger, tapered B strings to see if you can get the definition you are looking for.

Heres the link: D'Addario XL ProSteels Stainless Steel Single String Long Sc

Good Luck!

Among my 5 string fleet I also have a 2006-ish Squier Jazz 5. The only thing I had to do to it was paint shield all the cavities to rid the buzzes and it turned out to be a really good sounding bass. The B string speaks very clearly and sustains really well. I settled on using just the Ernie Ball Slinky 45-130 set on this, even though I've hated Sinkys on anything else for years, but they work well on it.

But yeah, I'd suggest the OP try a taper B also. I used to have to do that to not so stellar bass I had in the 90's.

 

[gidbass]

Among my 5 string fleet I also have a 2006-ish Squier Jazz 5. The only thing I had to do to it was paint shield all the cavities to rid the buzzes and it turned out to be a really good sounding bass. The B string speaks very clearly and sustains really well. I settled on using just the Ernie Ball Slinky 45-130 set on this, even though I've hated Sinkys on anything else for years, but they work well on it.

But yeah, I'd suggest the OP try a taper B also. I used to have to do that to not so stellar bass I had in the 90's.

I also did what @Zooberwerx suggested...

*Coupling: Slightly loosen the neck bolts while tuned to pitch. This will allow the neck to butt-up firmly within the pocket. This is an old G&L trick and it actually works. Don't forget to re-tighten!

And that did make a significant improvement. So much so, that is cleared up my muddy B Lo-Rider. I have some Nordy J-Blades that I'm dropping in tonight and going to test it with a full set of ProSteels (to match my already existing B) and then with the existing Lo Riders. Still waiting on my Kalium Balanced set...

 

[TXFOSTERDAD]

Hi Everyone,

I bought a second-hand MIA 5-sting Jazz. I think it's the "standard" model (came with passive electronics). Love the look and playability, but: The B string - poop.
TIA

A lot of good info in the replies. I'll add mine.

String gauge! That's the best solution if you're going to keep the Fndr MIA Jazz V. I have two Jazz V's: one MIA and one Amer Dlx. The American model still has the problem if you use the wrong gauge strings, but no where near as bad as the MIA. I CAN'T REMEBER, but I'm pretty sure you need the smaller gauge strings to give the B a little more rigidity and action. Helps to brighten the dullness of the sound, also.
HOWEVER, my MIA also had a problem with a volume loss on the D slightly, and more so on the G.
-THE CLOSEST I GOT TO A SOLUTION for the B, was when I used a different (smaller?) gauge B string than the rest of the strings. NOTHING I could do would eliminate the problem, but it did improve significantly between the larger and smaller gauge strings.

I rarely play either one of my Fenders now. I quickly moved on to 6ers and got a phenomenal sound from the ESP LTD D-6. My first 5 was an ESP LTD B-5, and, cost to quality and sound, it was the best purchase I ever made; $300 and WAY quality enough for even upper-level professional gigs.

 

[DonaldR]

Wow, so many responses. Thanks a lot.
View attachment 3988597

I know nothing about bass construction but every time I tried a 34" 5-string with this string angle, the B string was floppy IMHO: old Fender and Ibanez comes from memory.
My Squier VM Jazz V has a straight line B string from nut to tuner and the B string is tight and clear.
I think new Fender V have the tuners closer to the edge of the headstock (at least on my Squier they are) to get a straight line B string. What year is your MIA Jazz V?
I'm also using a set of DR light gauge with a 120 B string. So my recommendation is to put a 120 B string, or even smaller, to try to get a strait B string from nut to tuner, or trade that bass.

 

[PhatBottomBass1]

My next two basses are almost certainly going to be Warmoth versions of Fender 5-string Jazz Basses, at 34". But, I plan (right now, anyway) to tune them DGCFBb.

My main bass for 18 years was a 1992 Fender Jazz Bass Plus V Ash, Fender's first true 5-string bass. Maybe the Lace Sensors and Kubicki preamp helped.

I definitely understand what you mean about the string-to-string difference, but that never bothered me much. I was more concerned about the lack of fundamental in anything below low D.

Here is a fresh 34" scale 1/4 sawn Maple, steer rods, Ebony board Warmoth 2Tek MONSTER Bass tuning AEAD.

(I have no use for the G for a 5 string.)

The A/B is massive and I can use it for more than a variation on a Zero-Mods thumb rest!

These seem to do the trick with tapper core ends, a little more and a little less and I toss the G string.

The EMG X-Series pickups are very nice and do the job required of this machine!

I use a Thunderfunk 750/800 mod and two Baer ML112 Series II cabinets and a group of well selected pedals from Darkglass, EBS, MXR, Broughton and a Trickfish Trilobite.

I have the jam to make it speak...!

 

[Spooky88]

Here is a fresh 34" scale 1/4 sawn Maple, steer rods, Ebony board Warmoth 2Tek MONSTER Bass tuning AEAD.

(I have no use for the G for a 5 string.)

The A/B is massive and I can use it for more than a variation on a Zero-Mods thumb rest!
View attachment 4013028
These seem to do the trick with tapper core ends, a little more and a little less and I toss the G string.
View attachment 4013034
The EMG X-Series pickups are very nice and do the job required of this machine!

I use a Thunderfunk 750/800 mod and two Baer ML112 Series II cabinets and a group of well selected pedals from Darkglass, EBS, MXR, Broughton and a Trickfish Trilobite.

I have the jam to make it speak...!

Dude! That is sick! I love it! What's the break down on the controls? Just volume and tones or ? I run my EMG pickups at 18volts and they pack a serious punch. Hope you're playing live somewhere here in the northwest cause I would love to hear you play that beast. Thanks for sharing.