Looking for a mute switch. Thoughts?

The regular size Strobostomp can use a 9v battery.
Be careful with this. I have one on a board that is run with batteries. When the battery starts to run out of gas, I would get some weird pulsing sounds that came out of it. I ended up putting a jhs ab switch on the board (no power required) and took the stomp out of the main path. Ab switch acts like a mute switch and gives me access to the tuner. Works fantastic, but I wouldn’t do it without the ab switch.
 
I had a sonic research tuner, but it definitely thinned the sound a bit.
hm..but
I thought all versions of that tuner were true bypass. The current version is.
Maybe try it again in case it was more placebo effect than you realized before?
Pedals affecting tone also tend to affect highs rather than lows. Sounds like something weird was happening, but I'm reluctant to think it was actually the tuner. 🤷‍♂️
 
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hm..but
I thought all versions of that tuner were true bypass. The current version is.
Maybe try it again in case it was more placebo effect than you realized before?
Pedals affecting tone also tend to affect highs rather than lows. Sounds like something weird was happening, but I'm reluctant to think it was actually the tuner. 🤷‍♂️

The new ones use a relay bypass(true bypass), so there isn't a pop. I notice no loss of anything with mine, though that doesn't necessarily mean there isn't one. The Peterson Strobostomp is a great tuner too, and has a very nice buffer in it. I have one of those as well, but on a bright outdoor stage I prefer the Sonic Research display.
 
Speaking from experience, use a quality volume pedal to cut the volume totallyy, like an Ernie Ball passive one, or get the aforementioned Little Lehle and slave one side of the A/B function to a tuner. I always recommend against using any tuner in-line due to poor experiences with signal loading and tone suck, regardless of the model of tuner in question. I keep my tuner out of the main path of my bass's signal by using the tuner out function on the amp itself, or by splitting it off. Even the 'tuner out' on the Ernie Ball pedal gave me trouble in the past if I had a tuner plugged in there.
The trick, if you have a passive volume pedal, is to not use the Tuner Out on the volume pedal, but have an always-on tuner behind it, in the "normal" signal chain. This is what I'll often do if I don't use "my own" AB switch, which I posted.

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The new-ish Korg tuner 👆🏻 is really cool – but for some insane reason, it can't be set to always-on! If you look at this promo image, that seems like a neat place to stick a tuner – but you can't do the volume pedal "trick" mentioned above. You have to use a tuner-out (preferrably buffered) or stomp on the pedal to use it (which is difficult if it's somewhere like the promo image).

If I remember correctly, the Sonic tuner can't be set to always on either – but that's more excused, as it isn't brand new. But some that can, are Boss, Peterson, Walrus Audio Canvas and Polytune 3. Also a little shout-out to the Nux Flow tuner, which can do this, while being very cheap.
 
I haven’t had a very elaborate paddle board, but I recently have been just using my fat boy to DI and I’m getting the sounds that I’ve been looking for chasing my tail with all the pedals.

One of the acts I work with is a bunch of ex- singers from Kansas, Boston, Skynyrd and Journey. Some of the guys are down a half step and some art so I need to use two basses.

I’m not really looking to put something in line, but I really do need something to mute the signal to front of house and into the amplifier while I switch basses.

I had a sonic research tuner, but it definitely thinned the sound a bit.

Anybody have any suggestions?

Is there such a thing as a mute pedal??


All feedback is welcome. Thank you.
I have a Boss floor pedal tuner. Wired between bass and amp input, when engaged it mutes the line to the amp so nobody can hear you tune. Also this muting feature would allow you to silently change basses. I sure there a boatload of other tuner pedals that would do the same.

If you plug the tuner in to your amp's tuner out jack, the mute function may not work, although I've never tried it.
 
Ah, that's nice! My bandmate has bought my old tuner, and I'm pretty sure that didn't have it. But that very well might be an ST-200!
They are great tuners. 👌🏻
Side note (barely relevant to the thread, sigh) - I bought a Peterson Strobostomp HD to replace my ST-300 because the Petersen has a separate mute LED. When running the ST-300 in alwasy-on mode there is no indication of whether or not it is muted. As good as the Petersen is, I find the display on the ST-300 to be easier to see at oblique angles. With the tuner on my desk, I can't see the Peterson while the ST-300 is easily seen.

So rather than replacing my ST-300, I apparently spent a bunch of $$ to augment it. Now I have one tuner for home use, and one for live situations.

Oh, and OP - I've never noticed any change in tone due to either tuner. Or the Polytune they replaced.
 
I had a sonic research tuner, but it definitely thinned the sound a bit.
I have used a Sonic Research ST-300 Mini tuner for several years and it doesn't thin any tone at all. I also owned the previous larger version of this pedal; same thing, no degradation in sound. Maybe you had a bum unit?

Noble-Cali76CB-HPFpre-TurboTuner-sm.JPG
 
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My Sonic Research ST-300 can be set to always-on.
ohhh, OP, idk but if it happened that your tuner was set to always-on, then the buffer preserving the highs might have sounded too bright with your rig / settings...and that might have came across as a loss of lows with the tuner.

Cheapest way out of your problem would be if it turns out that changing to true bypass mode on the tuner you already have winds up working for you
 
Following on the mute pedal and switchable cable ideas, you could actually build either or both of those fairly easily. For the cable, just run a basic switch (an inline rocker switch, like a you would find on a lamp, would work well) on one conductor of your cable. You could build the pedal with a project box, a latching footswitch, and 2 1/4" jacks. All you would need other than parts is basic soldering skills.
 
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