Low tension flatwound or tapewound strings?

#27
RomanS said:
I recently picked up a cheapo Asian-made Höfner Club Bass for next to nothing, because the top has started sagging underneath the bridge - the two layers of the laminted top had separated there, I assume it might have got hit on the bridge or sat in a case that wasn't tall enough.
At any rate, I tinker around with guitars and basses a lot, so I used this opportunity to test my repair skills - wicked in some glue between the separated plywood layers, and glued a layer of maple veneer as a kind of bridge plate to the inside of the top - seems solid now...
But still, I don't want to take chances, so I'm going to use lower tension strings; the bass came with roundwounds (which I hate) - on my Precision I use D'Addario Chromes flatwounds, not sure what to use here?
I heard Thomastik Infeld flats have less string pull than other brands? What about tapewounds? Never tried those, how's the string pull with these, compared to flats? LaBella makes those in medium scale (which I need for the Club Bass). Other options for low tension strings?
BTW, the tone I'm shooting for is a thumpy, upright-bass-like old-school tone (I only use the neck pickup, and pluck the strings near the end of the neck).
QlUUhci.jpg
Click to expand...
....Fender 9120 Tapewounds, end of discussion. Tension similar to rubberbands, easy on the fingertips, and last literally for years because crap doesn't get into the windings. Tone is somewhere between dead rounds and flats. Highly recommended.
 
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#30
bryan gibson said:
....Fender 9120 Tapewounds, end of discussion. Tension similar to rubberbands, easy on the fingertips, and last literally for years because crap doesn't get into the windings. Tone is somewhere between dead rounds and flats. Highly recommended.
Click to expand...
Except they don't come in the string length that is needed for a Hofner. The Fenders only come in Fender length made for top load bridges scale. I know, I have them on my P-inspired fanned fret bass that has a 34 inch E string and the strings fit the standard Fender headstock. They are too long for a Hofner and will break trying to wrap the speaking portion of the E string around the thin tuner post.

Sir Macca uses the LaBella flat Hofner set on his bass.
 
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#31
I love the Low Tension Flexibles with a pickup way at the neck and short scale with humbuckers. Not as bassy as some but tone is deep even through speakers with no bass at all. Not sure what the actual tension on the bridge is with them though, my bass is a slab.
Every instrument is different, but I tried Chromes, Dunlop Black Tapes, Labella Deep Talking, and T.I. Jazz Flats on mine and the clear winner for a sound similar to recorded upright are the Labella Low Tension that are also awesome with a bit of overdrive too.
YMMV of course
 
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#32
RomanS said:
Great sound, but 65-115 gauge might require a bit of work on the nut - and I'm not sure how much string pull they have (as I said, I'm looking for something with less tension - no experience how tapewounds compare to flatwounds there...)
Click to expand...
My experience is that the tapes (at least the ones i have) tension is like a roundwound. Definitely more flexible that my ghs precision flats
 
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#33
RomanS said:
I recently picked up a cheapo Asian-made Höfner Club Bass for next to nothing, because the top has started sagging underneath the bridge - the two layers of the laminted top had separated there, I assume it might have got hit on the bridge or sat in a case that wasn't tall enough.
At any rate, I tinker around with guitars and basses a lot, so I used this opportunity to test my repair skills - wicked in some glue between the separated plywood layers, and glued a layer of maple veneer as a kind of bridge plate to the inside of the top - seems solid now...
But still, I don't want to take chances, so I'm going to use lower tension strings; the bass came with roundwounds (which I hate) - on my Precision I use D'Addario Chromes flatwounds, not sure what to use here?
I heard Thomastik Infeld flats have less string pull than other brands? What about tapewounds? Never tried those, how's the string pull with these, compared to flats? LaBella makes those in medium scale (which I need for the Club Bass). Other options for low tension strings?
BTW, the tone I'm shooting for is a thumpy, upright-bass-like old-school tone (I only use the neck pickup, and pluck the strings near the end of the neck).
QlUUhci.jpg
Click to expand...

That damage to the bass is probably due to an impact … the proper repair would be an installation of a solid wood block inside the hollow bass body under the bridge ...

that is probably not what you want to hear at all ...

a good luthier may be able to put some wood dowels in the body under the bridge

That style of bass has a unique tone that is interesting
 
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#34
iiipopes said:
Except they don't come in the string length that is needed for a Hofner. The Fenders only come in Fender length made for top load bridges scale. I know, I have them on my P-inspired fanned fret bass that has a 34 inch E string and the strings fit the standard Fender headstock. They are too long for a Hofner and will break trying to wrap the speaking portion of the E string around the thin tuner post.

Sir Macca uses the LaBella flat Hofner set on his bass.
Click to expand...
Good to know. Thanks :)
 
#37
RomanS said:
I recently picked up a cheapo Asian-made Höfner Club Bass for next to nothing, because the top has started sagging underneath the bridge - the two layers of the laminted top had separated there, I assume it might have got hit on the bridge or sat in a case that wasn't tall enough.
At any rate, I tinker around with guitars and basses a lot, so I used this opportunity to test my repair skills - wicked in some glue between the separated plywood layers, and glued a layer of maple veneer as a kind of bridge plate to the inside of the top - seems solid now...
But still, I don't want to take chances, so I'm going to use lower tension strings; the bass came with roundwounds (which I hate) - on my Precision I use D'Addario Chromes flatwounds, not sure what to use here?
I heard Thomastik Infeld flats have less string pull than other brands? What about tapewounds? Never tried those, how's the string pull with these, compared to flats? LaBella makes those in medium scale (which I need for the Club Bass). Other options for low tension strings?
BTW, the tone I'm shooting for is a thumpy, upright-bass-like old-school tone (I only use the neck pickup, and pluck the strings near the end of the neck).
QlUUhci.jpg
Click to expand...
I've had thomastiks on my fretless for decades. They have a spongy easy to bend feel. Never feel tight or hard to play. Highly recommended to try at least once. Recently I put some bright flats on the stingray and they are working and slappable. The only thing I don't like is the gritty feeling. When you pluck its almost like a bow on a violin string. I think this is why Rudy Sarzo always used to lick his fingers. Left hand fretting up and down the neck is as smooth as butter.
 
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#38
Ric5 said:
That damage to the bass is probably due to an impact … the proper repair would be an installation of a solid wood block inside the hollow bass body under the bridge ...

that is probably not what you want to hear at all ...

a good luthier may be able to put some wood dowels in the body under the bridge

That style of bass has a unique tone that is interesting
Click to expand...

There actually is a small block there already... It's just too narrow (about 2.5 x 2.5 cm), and for some reason, it is glued to the back, but not to the top - there's a gap of about 2-3 mm between that block and the top.
With strings and bridge removed, after a few days the top has almost returned to its original shape, there are only two barely noticeable indentions where the ends of the bridge rest on the top.
As I said, I glued a "bridge plate" made from two layers of 1 mm maple veneer to the underside of the bridge area, and added another small piece as a shim to fill the gap between the existing block and the top, seems solid now. If I see any movement, I still might add dowels as a kind of bass bar to connect the top and back.
This body is actually easy to work on, as you can reach inside both from the bridge pickup route, and from the big hole where the electronics sit...
 
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