Nut Files

[Geri O]

I have two basses that I think need 2 or 3 nut slots ever-so-slightly widened because of me using heavier-gauge strings. With one of them, it's difficult to make slight tuning adjustments on the D and A strings and I have to snap the string lightly against the fingerboard to get them to settle in. The other bass is behaving similarly. Of course, I tune under the pitch slightly, then back up, but in both directions, I think there's a little binding going on. I do use graphite (in the form of a #2 pencil lead) in all the nut slots during every string change.

I'm quite comfortable doing my own setups, including relief adjustments, but I've always been hesitatant to address anything that involved the nut or the frets. But my oh-so-excellent guitar repairman is unavailable for several weeks and I believe I can tackle this one carefully.

Should I order a nut file from StewMac, or will sandpaper (what grit?) wrapped around something appropriately-sized be okay for this one-time task (and what would that appropriately-sized something actually be?)? (I think I have a couple of metal pocket rulers that might work...)

The guitar guy has done this on another bass a few years ago and he used a caliper that measured in 1000s (with a dial) and I have one of those. It won't take much at all to solve the issue, so I know I need to be slow and careful.

Thanx!

Edit: he used the caliper to measure the outside diameter of the string, then filed away enough nut material just a teen-niny bit to make the slot wider than that OD.

 

[bdplaid]

I've used rattail files, and sandpaper wrapped around strings. I like the sandpaper method because I use 400 grit which makes the slot very slippery. But it's easy to screw up a nut slot if you aren't slow and careful.

 

[Zooberwerx]

I have two basses that I think need 2 or 3 nut slots ever-so-slightly widened because of me using heavier-gauge strings. With one of them, it's difficult to make slight tuning adjustments on the D and A strings and I have to snap the string lightly against the fingerboard to get them to settle in. The other bass is behaving similarly. Of course, I tune under the pitch slightly, then back up, but in both directions, I think there's a little binding going on. I do use graphite (in the form of a #2 pencil lead) in all the nut slots during every string change.

I'm quite comfortable doing my own setups, including relief adjustments, but I've always been hesitatant to address anything that involved the nut or the frets. But my oh-so-excellent guitar repairman is unavailable for several weeks and I believe I can tackle this one carefully.

Should I order a nut file from StewMac, or will sandpaper (what grit?) wrapped around something appropriately-sized be okay for this one-time task (and what would that appropriately-sized something actually be?)? (I think I have a couple of metal pocket rulers that might work...)

The guitar guy has done this on another bass a few years ago and he used a caliper that measured in 1000s (with a dial) and I have one of those. It won't take much at all to solve the issue, so I know I need to be slow and careful.

Thanx!

Sandpaper or preferably emery cloth wrapped around an appropriately sized drill bit. Put down some type of dam or guard on the leading edge of the nut so you don't over-cut the depth.

Riis

 

[Geri O]

I've used rattail files, and sandpaper wrapped around strings. I like the sandpaper method because I use 400 grit which makes the slot very slippery. But it's easy to screw up a nut slot if you aren't slow and careful.

For sure, I’m gonna do my absolute best to work on the sides only! The nut slot depth is fine.

 

[bdplaid]

Drill bit is a good idea.

 

[bdplaid]

Drill bit is a good idea.

Hell, I'll even put it in a drill to speed things up!

 

[Matt Liebenau]

If the depth of the slots is already good mark the bottom of the slot with pencil. As long as you can still see the pencil, you haven’t touched the the bottom of the slot or changed the depth. Stop filing as soon as the pencil goes away.

 

[Geri O]

If the depth of the slots is already good mark the bottom of the slot with pencil. As long as you can still see the pencil, you haven’t touched the the bottom of the slot or changed the depth. Stop filing as soon as the pencil goes away.

Outstanding idea, Matt! Disturbing the depth was a big concern. Thanx so much!

 

[BaldyLee]

I’ve used the mini file sets from harbor freight with success. Just have to go slow and be careful. U can use an old string as a finishing file to smooth out the groove as well after filing.

not ideal, but it will get it done way cheaper.

 

[DCCat]

I have Stew-Mac nut files for cutting slots deeper, but for just a little widening I sometimes use a thin flat file (probably about 1 mm thick or maybe a little more). I give the slot a couple of strokes with the file on each side and that often does the trick. Gotta be careful not to distort the shape of the slot but for quick jobs that's usually not too hard.

 

[60bass]

I have a set of these and combined with a set of groobars they get most jobs done. Everyone has their own way to deal with nut filing but these work for me.

HOSCO Luthiers Tools nut grooving rasp three sets for electric guitars TL-NF3E | eBay

Hosco Groobar 4 Bars/set For Guitars H-GB4 | eBay

 

[RSBBass]

Hell, I'll even put it in a drill to speed things up!

This is not a job you want to speed up. Slow and easy does it.

 

[60bass]

This is not a job you want to speed up. Slow and easy does it.

For sure. It's OK if you need to take a little more off slowly, but if you screw up and go too deep then you just created yourself a lot more work. Slow and steady is the only way to go about this.

 

[Geri O]

For sure. It's OK if you need to take a little more off slowly, but if you screw up and go too deep then you just created yourself a lot more work. Slow and steady is the only way to go about this.

The thing about what I’m trying to accomplish is just a little widening of the nut slots. Nothing to do with the depth. It will take very little material being removed to accomplish what needs to be done.

In fact, someone above suggested that I pencil in the bottom of the slot and could tell if I was getting too close. I don’t want to touch the bottom of the slot at all.

Thanx, all.

EDIT: ahh, yes, I remember now, that tip came from fellow TBer @Matt Liebenau. Thanx, Matt!

 

[byacey]

You could use one of these to speed up the process:

 

[totalnoob]

Put down some type of dam or guard on the leading edge of the nut so you don't over-cut the depth.

That's a gold nugget right there.

 

[Zooberwerx]

That's a gold nugget right there.

I stack some cast-off feeler gauges.

Riis

 

[BaldyLee]

The thing about what I’m trying to accomplish is just a little widening of the nut slots. Nothing to do with the depth. It will take very little material being removed to accomplish what needs to be done.

In fact, someone above suggested that I pencil in the bottom of the slot and could tell if I was getting too close. I don’t want to touch the bottom of the slot at all.

Thanx, all.

EDIT: ahh, yes, I remember now, that tip came from fellow TBer @Matt Liebenau. Thanx, Matt!

Grab a cheap mini round dole and going the bottom smooth with a dremmel gringing drum. That will protect the bottom of the nut. I did that on a three corner file for fret work. Ground the corners smooth to protect the fretboard. Just more inexpensive options.

 

[totalnoob]

I stack some cast-off feeler gauges.

Riis

How hard are feeler gauges, usually? I assume they are made of mild steel. This reminds me to buy a set of feeler gauges.

 

[BaldyLee]

Grab a cheap mini round dole and going the bottom smooth with a dremmel gringing drum. That will protect the bottom of the nut. I did that on a three corner file for fret work. Ground the corners smooth to protect the fretboard. Just more inexpensive options.

Freaking autocorrect! Mini round file and grind the bottom smooth with a grinding drum.