You’ll know when the file starts to “kiss” the top of the stack. Bought my last set at NAPA auto for like 7 bucks. For some strange reason, there’s no 0.010”
Riis
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Nut Files
- Thread starter Geri O
- Start date
You’ll know when the file starts to “kiss” the top of the stack. Bought my last set at NAPA auto for like 7 bucks. For some strange reason, there’s no 0.010”
Riis
Turnaround
Commercial User
- May 6, 2004
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- Independent Instrument Technician - Retired
Sort of good idea. Problem is you file a bit and look, and the pencil mark is still there. So you file a bit more. Still can see the pencil line, so you go a bit more, and the pencil line is gone. Now you know you've gone too deep. The pencil line doesn't tell you when you're almost there, just when you've gone too far.
Indeed, great point. Kinda like when the oil pressure light comes on in a car, it's probably too late to avoid damage.
My thoughts on preceding with this is to file the side just a tiny bit and try the string meant for that slot. I plan to be oh so careful to not file on anything but the sides of the slot. As they are now, the strings bind a fair amount when I drop the string in the slot (thankfully, not all of them on each bass). I want to remove just enough for the string to not bind. I'm hoping I can take into account the string maybe decreasing in diameter when it's tuned up to pitch. I actually have no idea if that's even a thing with strings under no tension vs the same string up to pitch.
It should be (painfully to some!) obvious that I'm not at all a serious guitar tech. I can set relief, action height, and intonation to suit my playing style. I've never tackled anything to do with the nut and most certainly not at all the frets. The only reason I'm attempting this task is that, while I love my local guitar guy, he's been been in acoustic guitar-building mode since October and plans to be until March ("or so"). I have to respect that he won't take whatever little time this would actually take him to do this job. But I'm anxious to get this taken care of. I could drive 4 hours to a shop with a great reputation and that's not out of the question.
Thanx to everyone for the ideas and suggestions. They mean a lot and I appreciate them (even @byacey - good laugh!).
Turnaround
Commercial User
- May 6, 2004
- 10,889
- 22,427
- 6,476
- Disclosures
- Independent Instrument Technician - Retired
Many hobby stores will have small files with safe edges. They look like this in profile:
The teeth are cut on the file faces, and the rounded edges are smooth. Just the ticket to file the sides of the nut slots without disturbing the bottom. You may not be able to find them thin enough for the G string though.
But now to reveal my secret tool for jobs like this. It's an auto ignition points file.
Nicholson 02375N Tungsten Point File, 5-1/4"
I have found the Nicholson brand to be the best reliable for this application since the safe edge is very smooth. Other brands I have tried are not as safe on the edges and tend to scar the bottom of the nut slot. They are .044" thick, so are good for typical G strings as well. Worth every penny.
The teeth are cut on the file faces, and the rounded edges are smooth. Just the ticket to file the sides of the nut slots without disturbing the bottom. You may not be able to find them thin enough for the G string though.
But now to reveal my secret tool for jobs like this. It's an auto ignition points file.
Nicholson 02375N Tungsten Point File, 5-1/4"
I have found the Nicholson brand to be the best reliable for this application since the safe edge is very smooth. Other brands I have tried are not as safe on the edges and tend to scar the bottom of the nut slot. They are .044" thick, so are good for typical G strings as well. Worth every penny.
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I have a couple of these Nicholson ignition files in my shop and they are extremely good. It’s almost as if Nicholson was thinking about luthiers when they made ‘em!
I’ve also built up a good arsenal of small files, both with safe edges and without, from jeweler’s supply houses.
Ha! Yes, this is exactly the file I use, as mentioned in post #10 above. Works very well.
I super glue my string cut offs on a popsicle stick (as long as they are rounds)
Works perfectly for widening
Works perfectly for widening
Let us know how it goes. Just be prepared for a Foul up. It happens. If it does, be glad it was you. Good learning experience.
I would also say, get everything set up to do the job and then set your mind right. Relax. Breath. Look over your area for hazards - coffee to spill, etc. figure out how you’re going to hold it and attack the nut. Once you get started if you need to make adjustments, Re center your mind. It should be fun. Mistakes are “easy” to fix as long as you don’t jack up the finish or gouge a fret.
MOST IMPORTANTLY WALK AWAY IF YOU GET FRUSTRATED AT ALL.
I would also say, get everything set up to do the job and then set your mind right. Relax. Breath. Look over your area for hazards - coffee to spill, etc. figure out how you’re going to hold it and attack the nut. Once you get started if you need to make adjustments, Re center your mind. It should be fun. Mistakes are “easy” to fix as long as you don’t jack up the finish or gouge a fret.
MOST IMPORTANTLY WALK AWAY IF YOU GET FRUSTRATED AT ALL.
Indeed, it was a good learning experience! As well as enjoyable.
I did finally get this task done a couple of nights ago. There wasn’t much to it at all. On one bass, it was the D and the A string slots and another was the G, D, and A string slots. I could feel just a bit of binding on those strings as I lifted them up and down in the slots. Which didn’t look to be very deep, a little of each string was above the top of the slot. It was these strings that was taking a little bit of extra effort to get in tune.
I made sure I had great lighting and a magnifying glass handy. With each nut slot, I would put the file to one side of the slot at a time and run it back and forth a few times, making sure to not scrape the bottom of the slot. I would then check the string in the slot and repeat as needed, which wasn’t many times. That one G string slot took only one pass (a few times on each side) for the string to slip in and out of the slot. The others took 2, maybe 3 passes and no more to achieve the results. Now, each string tunes easily and normally. And thankfully, I’m hearing no extra buzzes or rattles. I was oh so careful to not touch the bottom of the nut slot. And I’m still using a pencil to put some graphite in the slots for a little lube action.
All in all, I’ll still be be very happy to pay a guitar tech to do this if I ever come up needing this work again. But I feel like I was successful this time taking care of this particular problem.
Thanx for a lot of great help and advice!
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I assume those are stainless steel roundwounds, as nickel would be too slippery.
I'm making a similar tool right this moment, thanks to your idea and inspiration!
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I don’t use the sticks. I just run it through there like dental floss. Works more to smooth them out then actual cutting. Ok for widening a bit to make a little room to seat better. Not much danger of over cutting with this method also.
This is why there are no popsicle sticks or bass strings at correctional facilities. Tie a few bed sheets together and we're good-to-go!
Hate to bring this up, but: Of all the components on my bench, the one that is designed NOT to cut is a set of bass strings. A big "yes" for files, blades, sandpaper, emery cloth & drill bits.
Riis
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Try it ... A new set of cut off stainless round cut like a champ
Ive got all those fancy tools as well
But most don't !!
Lol
With the stick you can angle the cut down towards the tuners a little easier
It's a neat tool that costs $0
And you can enjoy a popsicle to boot
By all rights, I shouldn't have any fingertips...or frets...remaining at the end of a gig. Hmmm...may be true of Rotosounds.
Riis
I don't want to open the entire abrasion and machining phenomena-can of worms, but... I would say skin and leather have higher abrasion/wear resistance than most other materils, including metals. Plus, skin has a fancy self-lubricating property which is not insignificant.