Odd Intonation? Problem

Check your first frets if it's too sharp, your nut is not well filed.
A lot of people don't pay attention to the nut but it's a very crucial part.
Maybe you need nut files.
It may be you are onto something. I never noticed this problem before though with the old bridge which makes me so confused. it won't harm to look at the nut though. I only have swiss files or drill bits with a bit of sandpaper wrapped round them as hosco's are £75 a set 3/4's of the price of the bass when I bought it. I'll have to bite the bullet at some stage.
I'm going to give it a good set up later today including filing the nut, if I mess up it's no biggy to get another nut, but at least I'm learning and practising.:thumbsup:
 
Was the intonation good before you changed the bridge? If so, put the old bridge back on, put a piece of masking tape beside it and mark (or measure) where the string leaves the G string saddle. Then install the new bridge so with the saddle almost all the way forward, the string leaves the saddle in the same place.
All this other stuff people are telling you is fine tuning. It's not going to fix the problem if the bridge is placed where the bass is a semitone out at the 5th fret :)
Unfortunately I can't do that as I sold the bridge last week. I remember measuring it before I took it off, and the measurement was 30" but the A&G saddle was retracted about 1/4", so I don't think I'm a million miles out.
I'm going to give it a full set up today so I can eliminate that from the equation, as I've said I noticed this before I set it up so the advice everyone has given me has been valuable so far and will help me in the set up. If the bridge placement is out for some strange reason, I'm not averse to filling the new holes and re-drilling :thumbsup:
 
"Was the intonation good before you changed the bridge?"

Exactly what I was going to ask.

With any mod, "Did it work before the mod?" is always a valid question.
And that's the rub, I hadn't noticed anything like this with the last bridge - that's all I can say, but I definitely can't be sure whether it was always there in one form or another. It was my son's bass years ago, but he never really took it up. It had been lying forgotten for years in our garage before I liberated it in September. :thumbsup:
 
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Don't forget to set your witness points (well-defined break points over the nut and bridge saddle). A few more starting points:

*Tune the strings to pitch using the 12th fret harmonic on each...more on that later. I trust you have a passable tuner. We want to see how the bass responds under duress (~140 lbs?).

*Check and re-adjust the relief as necessary. A perfectly straight neck / fingerboard is a no-no.

*Set your string height for buzz-free performance. This will vary instrument-to-instrument and user's technique. Doesn't have to be perfect as we're just roughing-in the set-up. We'll ice the cupcake later.

*Check your intonation by comparing (via tuner) the 12th harmonic (gold standard) vs the 12th fretted. If the fretted is flat, move the saddle forward...if sharp, backwards / retreat. This is time-consuming as you'll be constantly re-tuning but eventually you'll get each string dialed-in.

This is really basic and, in essence, ignores other components & details which we can address later. We're just trying to get the bass in-tune with itself for the time being....which is why you posted in the first place!

Riis
Hi Riis,
so, I've reset the truss rod, adjusted the action/saddle height, filed the nut (E & A needed a bit more material taking off than D&G) I've set my witness points, and now onto the intonation. JC just uses the open string and 12th fret, if I understand correctly you set your intonation by playing the12th fret tuned exactly to the note, then the harmonic then set the intonation screws to the harmonic signal? After that would you set your witness points again? (BTW I found one of your old posts from September 2012 and you included the tuning peg witness point which I've also done.
Once I've correctly set the intonation I'll get back.
 
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Unfortunately I can't do that as I sold the bridge last week. I remember measuring it before I took it off, and the measurement was 30" but the A&G saddle was retracted about 1/4", so I don't think I'm a million miles out.
I'm going to give it a full set up today so I can eliminate that from the equation, as I've said I noticed this before I set it up so the advice everyone has given me has been valuable so far and will help me in the set up. If the bridge placement is out for some strange reason, I'm not averse to filling the new holes and re-drilling :thumbsup:
The bridge will have to move.
 
Riiiight.
Well this has been an informative and practical hands on experience for me.
What I've found out is that I cannot set the intonation correctly. On the E string even at its intonation maximum travel each way I cannot get out of E# territory. In this Sung Il bridge you can only adjust intonation by about 10mm so I have a sinking feeling I may have placed the bridge too far toward to the neck which is what other people on here have alluded to.
I have been following this fella's method of installing a bridge;

And the distance from nut to 12th fret is exactly 14 7/8" on my neck bang on, as you can see from my previous photos, I thought I'd got it smack on. but maybe I should have just measured from front of nut 30" and set it at where the G saddle extends fully toward the neck, so mystery solved. I'll have to re-drill and mount the bridge 1/4 inch further back but that's something for tomorrow or later. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks all, and I've learned a lot from yoiu all, especially @Zooberwerx
:thumbsup:
 
Hi Riis,
so, I've reset the truss rod, adjusted the action/saddle height, filed the nut (E & A needed a bit more material taking off than D&G) I've set my witness points, and now onto the intonation. JC just uses the open string and 12th fret, if I understand correctly you set your intonation by playing the12th fret tuned exactly to the note, then the harmonic then set the intonation screws to the harmonic signal? After that would you set your witness points again? (BTW I found one of your old posts from September 2012 and you included the tuning peg witness point which I've also done.
Once I've correctly set the intonation I'll get back.
You can do it on the 19th fret too.
This way you will actually know if your bass is really well made.
 
Riiiight.
Well this has been an informative and practical hands on experience for me.
What I've found out is that I cannot set the intonation correctly. On the E string even at its intonation maximum travel each way I cannot get out of E# territory. In this Sung Il bridge you can only adjust intonation by about 10mm so I have a sinking feeling I may have placed the bridge too far toward to the neck which is what other people on here have alluded to.
I have been following this fella's method of installing a bridge;

And the distance from nut to 12th fret is exactly 14 7/8" on my neck bang on, as you can see from my previous photos, I thought I'd got it smack on. but maybe I should have just measured from front of nut 30" and set it at where the G saddle extends fully toward the neck, so mystery solved. I'll have to re-drill and mount the bridge 1/4 inch further back but that's something for tomorrow or later. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks all, and I've learned a lot from yoiu all, especially @Zooberwerx
:thumbsup:

I've made lots of mistakes working on instruments. And there's always more to learn!
 
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if I understand correctly you set your intonation by playing the12th fret tuned exactly to the note, then the harmonic then set the intonation screws to the harmonic signal?
I could be reading this wrong but it sounds like you're doing it backwards.
You need to tune the string to the 12th harmonic and then check to see if the 12th fretted is in tune. Adjust intonation for the 12th fretted. Sorry if my reading comprehension is failing me.
 
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I could be reading this wrong but it sounds like you're doing it backwards.
You need to tune the string to the 12th harmonic and then check to see if the 12th fretted is in tune. Adjust intonation for the 12th fretted. Sorry if my reading comprehension is failing me.
I think, I'm doing it right? When people say 'harmonic' I'm assuming it's the quick gentle touch on the string that makes it ring an octave higher? If I haven't misunderstood then that harmonic is in perfect tune with the open string. When I fret at the 12th fret though, it's that that's sharp. I was puzzled why you get that disparity so far down the neck at the fifth fret. I've put new bridges of different types and mounting holes before, but maybe I've been lucky in the past? I can't say I understand it still, but at least I've now established what the problem is!:thumbsup:
 
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I think, I'm doing it right? When people say 'harmonic' I'm assuming it's the quick gentle touch on the string that makes it ring an octave higher? If I haven't misunderstood then that harmonic is in perfect tune with the open string. When I fret at the 12th fret though, it's that that's sharp. I was puzzled why you get that disparity so far down the neck at the fifth fret. I've put new bridges of different types and mounting holes before, but maybe I've been lucky in the past? I can't say I understand it still, but at least I've now established what the problem is!:thumbsup:
You have it correct. Pity the answer to your problem wasn't that simple, though.
 
I could be reading this wrong but it sounds like you're doing it backwards.
You need to tune the string to the 12th harmonic and then check to see if the 12th fretted is in tune. Adjust intonation for the 12th fretted. Sorry if my reading comprehension is failing me.
Splitting hairs I know, but call it the 2nd harmonic or the 1st overtone 'at the 12th fret'. Half the wavelength and twice the frequency of the open string Fundamental. The actual '12th harmonic' is a P5TH not an octave.
Most prob know what you meant, but a few could get confused I guess.
 
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When I fitted the bridge the distance from fret end of the nut to measures 14 and 7/8", double that and by my calculations it's 29 and 3/4" to bridge.
That sounds correct even though we know something is wrong.

I snapped some photos of my Jag short scale for reference, measuring at the G string. From nut to the middle of the 12th fret I measure just under 15”... maybe 14 31/32”. That means my scale length is somewhere between 29 15/16” and 29 31/32”. With intonation set, the G saddle is 30” from the nut, give or take a hair. Not pictured, but the E saddle is about 30 5/16”.
 

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That sounds correct even though we know something is wrong.

I snapped some photos of my Jag short scale for reference, measuring at the G string. From nut to the middle of the 12th fret I measure just under 15”... maybe 14 31/32”. That means my scale length is somewhere between 29 15/16” and 29 31/32”. With intonation set, the G saddle is 30” from the nut, give or take a hair. Not pictured, but the E saddle is about 30 5/16”.
I haven't got round to moving it yet, probably a job for the weekend as got a busy week this week. However, I'll be measuring 30" from nut to G saddle fully extended in action. If that doesn't work then it appears I have small black hole in the vicinity!
 
I haven't got round to moving it yet, probably a job for the weekend as got a busy week this week. However, I'll be measuring 30" from nut to G saddle fully extended in action. If that doesn't work then it appears I have small black hole in the vicinity!
A happy ending!!
FireworksFourthOfJulyGIF.gif
It's 18:55 over here in Blighty (Limey land) and I repositioned the bridge at exactly 30" from nut to G saddle at full intonation extension. Before I did the bridge, I spent a while setting it up, filing the nut, witness points until it was spot on in terms of a good set up. Still had the problem, but I knew we had a good base to start with. I moved the bridge last night but it was gettin late and I was tired so took it up again this evening. I used the time this evening to fit a new pickup and test it, before restringing it.
Well, thanks to all of you who commented on the original problem, looks like I was out with the positioning. I'm not going to diss the bloke on the YT vid I posted earlier in this thread, it all makes sense but perhaps I may have took him at his word rather than that of common sense, and perhaps his vid is for fullscale basses? Dunno.
Anyway, it's behaving as it should at the 5th fret and open string above, so that's a win!
Not yet had time to do a new set up and witness points - had to rush on here first to thank you all, - but more than confident it'll be as good as it's going to get.
It's just a cheap Bronco, but it has a lot of sentimental attachment for me, it was my son's and that's worth more to me than any Dingwall or top end guitar.
So thank you all, sincerely.
As we say in the world of metric places, probs you guys say this too? - "Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner!"
So thank you all again, I declare this post "CASE CLOSED"
:thumbsup::):D
 
if I understand correctly you set your intonation by playing the12th fret tuned exactly to the note, then the harmonic then set the intonation screws to the harmonic signal?
Isn't this backwards? Tune the open string to the standard you normally use. As a sanity check, verify the 12th fret harmonic is also in tune (if it's not, it's a string problem). Then fret at the 12th fret and check whether that's in tune; adjust intonation accordingly.
 
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