Order of truss rod adjustment and intonation.

Hey guys,

So I need to adjust my truss rod, fix the intonation (i.e. the distance on the saddle), and string height for each individual string, and I'm not sure which order I should do each of those three.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

TIA!
 
You don't. It will depend on how springy the neck is, and how much you have to change the relief. You adjust the string height approximately right the first time, so that you are putting about the right load on the neck, while you are checking and adjusting the relief. When the relief is right, you check and reset the string height, if needed.
 
You don't. It will depend on how springy the neck is, and how much you have to change the relief. You adjust the string height approximately right the first time, so that you are putting about the right load on the neck, while you are checking and adjusting the relief. When the relief is right, you check and reset the string height, if needed.
Thanks for the clarification :-)

How about the intonation? Is that before or after the saddle height?
 
I usually check relief first, because if the relief is way out it will indeed affect action, and bringing the relief back into spec will usually put the action close to where it needs to be if someone didn't adjust the action because of the relief changes. Intonation is the last part of a setup because it is reliant on everything else being in place first.
 
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I usually check relief first, because if the relief is way out it will indeed affect action, and bringing the relief back into spec will usually put the action close to where it needs to be if someone didn't adjust the action because of the relief changes. Intonation is the last part of a setup because it is reliant on everything else being in place first.
That was a very helpful explanation. :-)
Thanks!
 
There is a relationship between intonation and saddle height. If you set the intonation first, changing the saddle height can tweak it out slightly. By the same token, significant movements of the saddles to correct intonation can wreck your action. So, you want to have intonation at least in the ballpark when you set your saddles.

Typically, if the bass has been set up correctly in the past and you're simply correcting for seasonality or a different string variety, one pass will do. If it is a first-time setup or you are changing hardware, it may take two or three passes of action/intonation tweaks to dial it in just the way you want it.
 
There is a relationship between intonation and saddle height. If you set the intonation first, changing the saddle height can tweak it out slightly. By the same token, significant movements of the saddles to correct intonation can wreck your action. So, you want to have intonation at least in the ballpark when you set your saddles.

Typically, if the bass has been set up correctly in the past and you're simply correcting for seasonality or a different string variety, one pass will do. If it is a first-time setup or you are changing hardware, it may take two or three passes of action/intonation tweaks to dial it in just the way you want it.
Thanks for the helpful advice :thumbsup:
 
Don't forget to check/adjust string height at the nut. That is important as it has an effect on the string height all the way down the neck.


While true, filing the nut is a bit more advanced process if for no other reason than it can't be undone all that easily. Most decent bass manufacturers will have it fairly close because if it is too high, the first couple of frets play sharp. Too low and your never defeat the fret buzz on the first fret.
 
While true, filing the nut is a bit more advanced process if for no other reason than it can't be undone all that easily. Most decent bass manufacturers will have it fairly close because if it is too high, the first couple of frets play sharp. Too low and your never defeat the fret buzz on the first fret.

It is a little tricky, you need the right tools and the patience to go one thin layer at a time.

But I have found this oft-overlooked step has a fairly big impact on the overall set up.

Most basses I've purchased over the years have shallow nut slots, probably erring on that side making room for how the end user sets up their bass. I've had to deepen the slots on the majority of my basses, from all price points.
 
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I like the Fender setup guide. Simple, with some measurement figures. Nice for those of us who can't stream videos. Only thing I'd add is after making rough adjustments to make it playable, first thing I do is file the nut slots down most of the way to where I want. As others said, every one of my basses I had to take down a ridiculous amount of material to make the first frets playable. After I do the rest of the setup and get by hands used to the low action I like, I'll fine tune the nut slots.
 
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