Order of truss rod adjustment and intonation.

I might reverse the last two items. Having the pickups too close to the strings can cause intonation problems.
I don't know how that works. Can you explain? Pickup height is not physically connected as the other 3 are. They obviously will affect intonation. How pickup height affects anything other than tone and volume I don't know.
This is not a challenge, rather a search for knowledge.
 
I don't know how that works. Can you explain? Pickup height is not physically connected as the other 3 are. They obviously will affect intonation. How pickup height affects anything other than tone and volume I don't know.
This is not a challenge, rather a search for knowledge.
Magnetic pull on the strings if the pickup(s) is/are too high.
 
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Ya, I know, no nut, no strings etc, but the nut slot heights are partly dependent on the other adjustments. If the truss rod is way out, or saddles too high, it will throw off nut slot height too. My plan was to get the nut close, but a little higher than spec, then follow that YouTube video I posted.
 
I don't know how that works. Can you explain? Pickup height is not physically connected as the other 3 are. They obviously will affect intonation. How pickup height affects anything other than tone and volume I don't know.
This is not a challenge, rather a search for knowledge.
If the pickups are too close to the strings, the pull from the magnets interferes with the normal vibration of the string. This can make it really difficult to intonate, as you will find that the twelfth fret note will wander off pitch quite a bit. And if you do get it so that it's pretty close at the 12th, it's likely to be off elsewhere. So, set your pickup height before intonation.

And todo a setup really well I would do things in this order:

1. Truss rod adjustment
2. String height adjustment
3. Nut adjustment
4. String height readjustment if there was any change to the nut in the previous step
5. Pickup height adjustment
6. Intonation
 
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If the pickups are too close to the strings, the pull from the magnets interferes with the normal vibration of the string. This can make it really difficult to intonate, as you will find that the twelfth fret note will wander off pitch quite a bit. And if you do get it so that it's pretty close at the 12th, it's likely to be off elsewhere. So, set your pickup height before intonation.

And todo a setup really well I would do things in this order:

1. Truss rod adjustment
2. String height adjustment
3. Nut adjustment
4. String height readjustment if there was any change to the nut in the previous step
5. Pickup height adjustment
6. Intonation
Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware there is enough magnetic pull on the strings to cause that, but it does make sense.
I reviewed the Fender guide and it has the same order except it starts with a rough intonation setting that only consists of using a tape measure to find the center point. They measure from nut to 12th fret then adjust the saddle to duplicate that measurement.
 
Thanks for the info. I wasn't aware there is enough magnetic pull on the strings to cause that, but it does make sense.
I reviewed the Fender guide and it has the same order except it starts with a rough intonation setting that only consists of using a tape measure to find the center point. They measure from nut to 12th fret then adjust the saddle to duplicate that measurement.
There's a good point for dealing with "rough" intonation before anything else, when you are changing strings. Actually, you are not really even roughing in the intonation, you are moving the saddles back away from their proper intonation point (back meaning in the opposite direction of the headstock). The reason you want to do this has to do with witness points.

There is one high end luthier I know that disagrees with "setting" the witness points, so you might temper your evaluation of what I say based on that. Regardless, I think it important to set the witness points when restringing a bass. Setting the witness points means pressing down the string on the speaking part of the string at the nut and saddles. That creates a sharp break angle at both ends and eliminates a bit of a hump in the string that will naturally form there. That sharp break angle actually kinks the string at the break point. That's fine so long as the kink is in the right place, and it's only in the right place if the saddle is in the right place.

So now you have a chicken-and-egg situation. You can't intonate the string accurately if the witness points are set, but until the saddles are in the right location you don't want to put a witness point on the string. What to do? The answer is to set the saddles back of where they will need to eventually be. Set the witness point and check intonation. The saddle will likely need to be moved forward. So move it forward a bit and set the new witness point. Check again and repeat as necessary. The advantage is that the kinks you put in the string for any trial intonations will be behind the speaking length of the string where they will have no effect. Kinks in the speaking length are not good.
 
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There's a good point for dealing with "rough" intonation before anything else, when you are changing strings. Actually, you are not really even roughing in the intonation, you are moving the saddles back away from their proper intonation point (back meaning in the opposite direction of the headstock). The reason you want to do this has to do with witness points.

There is one high end luthier I know that disagrees with "setting" the witness points, so you might temper your evaluation of what I say based on that. Regardless, I think it important to set the witness points when restringing a bass. Setting the witness points means pressing down the string on the speaking part of the string at the nut and saddles. That creates a sharp break angle at both ends and eliminates a bit of a hump in the string that will naturally form there. That sharp break angle actually kinks the string at the break point. That's fine so long as the kink is in the right place, and it's only in the right place if the saddle is in the right place.

So now you have a chicken-and-egg situation. You can't intonate the string accurately if the witness points are set, but until the saddles are in the right location you don't want to put a witness point on the string. What to do? The answer is to set the saddles back of where they will need to eventually be. Set the witness point and check intonation. The saddle will likely need to be moved forward. So move it forward a bit and set the new witness point. Check again and repeat as necessary. The advantage is that the kinks you put in the string for any trial intonations will be behind the speaking length of the string where they will have no effect. Kinks in the speaking length are not good.
Good info. I do have one question regarding witness points. Every time you tune, the witness point at the nut will change, so how does that make setting a witness point at the nut useful? I can see the value at the saddle, because it will change little, if any.
 
Good info. I do have one question regarding witness points. Every time you tune, the witness point at the nut will change, so how does that make setting a witness point at the nut useful? I can see the value at the saddle, because it will change little, if any.
Quite right, it does change at the nut as you tune up over time. But you will find that if the witness point is set properly at both ends the instrument will go out of tune less and usually by a lesser amount than when they are not set, including at the nut. And even when you tune up you will be pulling the witness point into the nut a very small amount, not enough to have much effect, and you will be moving the "kink" from the witness point away from the speaking length of the string. So there's not much that's negative. There is more to gain from setting the witness point at the nut than there is to lose.

And, of course you are free to reset the witness point at the nut each time you retune.

Now there's a whole new problem if you routinely detune. In that case I would set the witness point at the nut when you are tuned as low as you are going to go and not worry about what happens when you tune up.