Double Bass Repair broken neck on upright bass

Where do you live? Maybe someone could help who's local?

If you have to use the bass, pleeeeeaaaassssseeee get it to a repair shop. If your treating it as a project, do your research properly and take your time. Don't think 'oh that'll do', fix it so that it'll NEVER break again.

I would remove the fingerboard or back button, line everything up and glue it with multiple hardwood dowels.

PM if you need more help, phone numbers etc
 
Ha - bolts are okay but epoxy is not?! Epoxy 'creeps'?! I don't think so, Tim...

I repair that kind of break on cheaper/school/student instruments with a couple of short maple wood blind 1/2" dowels and really good epoxy. The blind dowels go into sloppy holes so as to allow more epoxy in the bond. I haven't yet had one come back, even from a junior high school...

As Arnold once said, (and I paraphrase) if epoxy is good enough to hold America's Cup racing yachts together, it should be strong enough for a bass neck! ;)
 
Ha - bolts are okay but epoxy is not?! Epoxy 'creeps'?! I don't think so, Tim...

I repair that kind of break on cheaper/school/student instruments with a couple of short maple wood blind 1/2" dowels and really good epoxy. The blind dowels go into sloppy holes so as to allow more epoxy in the bond. I haven't yet had one come back, even from a junior high school...

As Arnold once said, (and I paraphrase) if epoxy is good enough to hold America's Cup racing yachts together, it should be strong enough for a bass neck! ;)

+1 Yeah, exactly. Best answer award goes toooooooo... Mr deVilliers!

Seriously though, this is a great way of repairing it.
 
I did this repair awhile back. The break fit together well, so I just held it in position, drilled a couple 3/16" holes from the face of the neck deep into the heel, drilled out the holes on the neck side of the break, and glued it back together with hide glue and the only clamp or jig was two beefy screws. I could have later replaced the screws with dowels, but saw no point. The only thing I have to say about epoxy is why use something which allows only one chance to get it right when there is something just as good which gives you an infinite number?
 
Because one only needs to get it right once. With an epoxy repair, if the neck breaks again it won't be at the same location where it broke before. The glue joint, including penetration into the wood cells, will be far stronger than the surrounding material. Bottom line, there are many ways to approach this repair, and one is free to choose the most appropriate solution.
 
As a player... I don't really have an opinion over what should happen to the neck, but anything that involves holes in the fingerboard is ridiculous. That will make it next to impossible to get a correct relief on it should the fingerboard need replaned later, and will give some spots uneven hardness, which will be annoying to play. Whatever happens behind the fingerboard, if holes need drilling it has to come off.

As someone who has made and repaired composite items many times before... if epoxy creeps, you used it wrong. Either the mix was off, it was too cold, or it got contaminated. Be very precise in the mixing (weigh it, with a 1/10 gram scale or something similarly precise), do it at the right temperature (usually quite warm, 25°C or so), with clean surfaces and mixing gear. Keep it warm for the full curing time too.
 
Regardless of the brand or vintage, I try to appraoch all repairs with respect, invisibility, and the ability for myself or the next person down the line to work on the instrument and remove anything I did. Even after 30+ years and hundreds of new builds and many many more repairs, I don't always get it right on the first try.

Given all of the rest of the half @$$ed, cheap, lazy shortcuts that we as a society are overwhelmed with every day, do you really want to add your name to the list and offer up this type of work?

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j.
www.condino.com
 
Lol wow

Honestly the most invisible way to do this is dense wood dowels in the joint. If you mark the drill points as i depicted in an earlier post and insert hard maple dowels with epoxy and clamp it properly, the only issue would be cosmetic. And even then that could be fixed as well.
 
Maybe the first thing to do is see how difficult it might be to remove the fingerboard with heat. You don't have to worry about doing any damage to the body (that's been taken care of), and if you damage the finish on the back of the neck, you can strip/ repair it easily. If you can get the fb off, screwing through the neck face will be the easiest way to put the necessary pressure on the joint for a good join. The screws will be torqued quite a bit, so get stainless or hardened steel if you can. If you snap the head off the screw after you've applied the glue, terrible curses will result. Of course, if you can't get the fb off, you'll have to do something else...
 
Hi.

Any hope of completely replacing the neck? Or is it so cheap as to not be worth the trouble?

IMHO/IMLE, judging by the pics alone, there may not be a dovetail joint there. That makes the neck replacement a bit of an un-necessary PITA, and doesen't quite teach the skills for making/installing a properly made one.
OTOH, what a great reason to make the neck detachable though ;).


I don't think the director is looking for any miracles. The bass is unusable as is--if I get it playable & it lasts a year or two, that's better than nothing.

Better than nothing perhaps, but if there isn't a severe budget increase to be expected to the music department within' that year or a two and this is the means to limp through up until that, not a whole lot better either. IMHO anyway.

There's no reason why that repair (if done correctly) couldn't last 20 years or more.
And more importantly, if/when it breaks again in (ab)use, to be easily repaired over and over again.

On the positive side, that is repairable, but if the neck wouldn't have snapped as they almost always do, the block would have been ripped off the ribs. Or the neck would've snapped in half. Or...
Those scenarios are repairable as well, but not as easily as in this case.


Regardless of the brand or vintage, I try to appraoch all repairs with respect, invisibility, and the ability for myself or the next person down the line to work on the instrument and remove anything I did.

+1

I'm just a hobbyist, and mostly on the slab side of instruments no less, but that's the ideology I live by as well.
Regardless of what I do/make/repair.

Sure, I have experimented and done what could be considered horrible sacrilidges for various objects, but when one learns without tutoring/supervision, things like that are bound to happen every once and a while.

Given all of the rest of the half @$$ed, cheap, lazy shortcuts that we as a society are overwhelmed with every day, do you really want to add your name to the list and offer up this type of work?

A wise person once said to me that before you can fake your way through for a reason or another, you have to have experience how to do that very thing correctly.
Only then can you determine what's the best approach for that given situation.
Applies to most fields, not just repairing and playing.


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This repair was done quickly and easily with hide glue and joined via screws inserted from under the fingerboard. No clamps needed.

Do you see the break?

Yes.

Why use epoxy? Why use dowels?

Some feel they're required, some know better?
;)

Matter of an opinion perhaps.

OTOH on a break not as clean as in OP's or Your case, epoxy and dowels might have their place.


BTW, I always get a chuckle when people talk about epoxies (or steel, or aluminium) like there's only one brand or variety available :).
To me it's the eqvivalent of labeling all wooden DB's as "made out of wood".
Just wood, since they're all the same.

Regards
Sam
 
Hi.

If you mark the drill points as i depicted in an earlier post and insert hard maple dowels with epoxy and clamp it properly, the only issue would be cosmetic.

Marking the points the way You described would not assure correct alignment of the hole.
On flat parallel surfaces it works adequately if one can't drill through the stocks in order to ensure perfect alignment.
On a compound curve/angle break like that, it's nearly impossible.
Sure, a 6mm (1/4") dowel in a 12mm (1/2") hole would probably align up if the dowel was short enough.

So, the issue wouldn't be just cosmetic, it'd be structural as well.

Regards
Sam
 
Maybe the first thing to do is see how difficult it might be to remove the fingerboard with heat. ...

My repair guy uses a syringe bottle filled with concentrated vinegar and a very thin blade. I've seen him pop a fingerboard in only a few minutes. Someone here mentioned that a good technique is to put the neck on the back shelf in a car and leave it in the hot sun for a few hours. This board might be glued with yellow glue, in which case heat won't work, but the vinegar still will.

And, yes, I concede that if the break doesn't fit together nicely then epoxy is the way to go.
 
Reviving an old thread here but I have a similar repair need and thought I would see if there were any alternate suggestions for this one. My neck broke right by the nut. There are several "splinters" that are fairly large. I'm not sure that I will be able to get the joint back together really tight trying to keep these pieces in place but I could try. Not sure that even a really well approximated glue joint would hold for a repair of a break in this area. I'm thinking of removing the fingerboard (already coming loose as seen in photo), gluing with epoxy and then placing a couple carbon fiber reinforcement bars through the break, just under the fingerboard. Any thoughts? I thought I saw photos of James Condino or possibly someone else? doing a repair like this but for the life of me can't find the photos of it again....I know a lot of people don't like epoxy repairs but I feel that if this repair fails, the next step is a total neck replacement.
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Engelhardt S1 bass. Thanks for any input!
 
Get some JB Weld 5 minute epoxy from your local hardware store and a roll of masking tape. Be absolutely sure of the alignment and go to it. Cheap tan masking tape will stretch a bit so glue it and quickly wrap it, pulling the tape taut as you go. After a few hours you can clean it up. You can fixit the right way or this way but this will hold and get you back in business.
Let the flames begin.
Edit: I’m referring to the clear stuff with almost 4000# strength.