Why would anyone need to shield the bridge earthing wire???
Redundancy. The copper tunnel is in contact with the bridge. The other side of the tunnel is in contact with the shielding. The shielding is in contact with the ground. Not necessary as you've pointed but I'm a belt and braces sort.
 
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Redundancy. The copper tunnel is in contact with the bridge. The other side of the tunnel is in contact with the shielding. The shielding is in contact with the ground. Not necessary as you've pointed but I'm a belt and braces sort.

I'm trying to make it simple - shield the source of interference in live wiring, rather than all the cavitys. Your method could create earth loops, and shield nothing. It's utterly pointless to shield the earth.

My coffee table bass had cavity shielding, and my shielding the live wires (and the PUs) vastly improved on that. It's more complete and simpler.

The concept is to shield the vulnerable points of interference, rather than a traditional unfocused blanket approach. The pots shield themselves; only the PUs and live wiring are vulnerable.

Reason vs tradition. This stupid battle goes on and on and...
 
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Yes, I covered that point in my post. I know about eddy currents (the thing that is damping some high frequenchy content in a fully shielded pickup) as I have engineered that effect into multiple products, and I have that modelled in my pickup models that I use for circuit simulations for my basses.

You said: "If you totally close the faraday cage, the the pickup will not work properly". I never said that it didn't affect performance - I stated the opposite. What I was taking exception to is your assertion that it wouldn't "work properly". Gibsons have a LOT of pickups in them that work as they intend them to (which is the definition of "properly", if you ask me)
Ok, I am basically saying as you do, just other words (as I am not english native). What I intended with not properly was that it will change a bit the behavior of the pickup as those will not work as intended from factory if covered up.
 
If you totally close the faraday cage, the the pickup will not work properly. A bass with a pickguard also leave the top of the pickup free.
If you just put tape in the cavity it will be already good because the pickups are by far the most sensitive to emi.
You can always start with the pickup cavity and see how it goes anyway.
Just remember to connect all grounds together (see if there is graphite paint because it will do just that).
Another way, but most costly, is to swap the pickups for a kit of noise canceling ones like the di marzio dp126.
Anyway, if you can post pictures of those cavity, it will be easy to assess what need be done :)
Thanks mate, i think I'll go this way and see how It works!
 
A Faraday cage shields against electrostatic interference. You can completely enclose a pickup in copper or aluminum tape, and it will still work because the strings are disturbing the magnetic circuit of the pickup*. i have some Nordstrand built/Dingwall designed pickups that enclose the pickup within copper shielding, and they work just fine. Every Les Paul, SG, 335, and a lot of other Gibson models use pickups that have pickups that are enclosed by a Faraday shield, and they work just fine. There is some impact on the high frequency content, but that's is a well understood thing; that impact can be engineered to be part of the design's performance.

A guitar or bass that doesn't have a pickguard can be shielded just as well as one with a pickguard. Shielding the cavity with copper tape (that is connected to ground), and either a tape strip under the pickup in the cavity, or (if the pole pieces are accessible on the bottom of the pickup) grounding the pole pieces with copper tape applied to the bottom of the pickup (the adhesive has to be conductive for this to work well) will get you there. A lot of modern pickups (Nordstrand does this) will come with the pole pieces already grounded.

There are two sources of noise in guitars/basses. Electrostatic (which proper shielding fixes), and magnetic (which shielding does not fix) - your Jazz Bass with single coil pickups will never be quiet in a magnetic field unless you install hum cancelling pickups. Your old P bass needs shielding to be completely quiet as well in an electrostatic field.
Thanks for the info dude. I don't want to screw anything, so i think i'll just place some foil n the pickup cavities to see how It works, About the 60 cycle hum, I know i won't get raid of It using shielding, that's why i ordered one of those bartolini Split coils in j pickup format, i'm excited to hear It installed.
 
And I have seen lots of not so much shielded humbucker loaded guitar and bass without noise, actually most of the time, the shield issue pop up about singlecoil instrument. I am still to see a noisy les paul with humbucker for one, even the low ends ones without any graphite paint.
I've had a Player P with sloppy shielding paint that was noisy. I shielded it with copper tape and it became silent. I'm now on my second Vintera P bass. These come unshielded and buzz like crazy. After shielding, they are silent. They all have humbuckers.

I'll give you one more piece of info that most don't experience therefore they don't believe it: the pickup ashtray cover makes P basses noisy. It also makes a noisy bass less noisy. It messes with the magnetic field of the pickups. I made a thread here a while ago.No solution has been found. Some people just don't hear noises is all I can say.
 
I'm trying to make it simple - shield the source of interference in live wiring, rather than all the cavitys. Your method could create earth loops, and shield nothing. It's utterly pointless to shield the earth.

My coffee table bass had cavity shielding, and my shielding the live wires (and the PUs) vastly improved on that. It's more complete and simpler.

The concept is to shield the vulnerable points of interference, rather than a traditional unfocused blanket approach. The pots shield themselves; only the PUs and live wiring are vulnerable.

Reason vs tradition. This stupid battle goes on and on and...
Quite happy for you to do what you want and I'm quite happy to do what I and (thousands of others) want.
All I'm saying is that you can create the tunnel between the pickup and control cavity with bit of practice and I like to shield the bridge tunnel too so there's continuity.
I've shielded 6 basses this way and none of them have earthing problems. As I said belt and braces.
So less attitude please, were here to help folks not to prove how much better our opinions are over other TB'ers.
 
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I highly recommend using a conductive paint for shielding.. it’s a much easier process, and in my experience, it has been easier to get consistent and effective results.

Yes, you shield, the control cavity, I also highly recommend the pick up cavities as well as grounding the pickup pole pieces, if applicable.

it doesn’t always matter, but to shield the wire runs that would normally be under a pit guard, but our instead tunneled through wood, the move is to use a shielded cable or to twist the hot/ground together. If you need to run more than two conductors like for coil splitting whatever, they sell four-conductor shielded wire for humbuckers etc.

edit: Super Shield nickel conductive paint by MG chemicals is what I use for conductive paint. I will never shield a cavity with copper tape again.. I use little tabs of copper tape and ground lug screws for things like connecting sections or making a good sprung Mechanical connection for a cavity cover

The wire runs in this bass are quite wide, would It work to wrap a straw with some foil, put the straw inside the tunnel and run the wires trough It?
 
I've had a Player P with sloppy shielding paint that was noisy. I shielded it with copper tape and it became silent. I'm now on my second Vintera P bass. These come unshielded and buzz like crazy. After shielding, they are silent. They all have humbuckers.

I'll give you one more piece of info that most don't experience therefore they don't believe it: the pickup ashtray cover makes P basses noisy. It also makes a noisy bass less noisy. It messes with the magnetic field of the pickups. I made a thread here a while ago.No solution has been found. Some people just don't hear noises is all I can say.
P bass pickup are serie wired humbucker, other are parallele wired humbucker, that's the difference, they do not even out the noise perfectly.
 
Hi! I recently bought a usted Yamaha RBX170, im planning to.replace the pickups and since I'm going to dismantle all the electronics, i want to put shielding on the bass, i've got all the necessary tools, I already bought the cooper tape with conductive adhesive and I have a pretty good idea of how to do It, The problem is that all the online manuals only talk about how to shield basses with a pickguard, and my model doesn't have one, so i was wondering how I should proceed? Should I place the copper tape only in the controls cavity? Or should I also put tape on the pickup cavities even though the Faraday cage will not be closed? On the other hand, on one of the edges of the bass there's a plastic plate where the output jack is screwed, should I also put tape on that plate? Please help this newbie to get rid of EMI induced noise!


Yeah, I looked at the model of the bass, it should be pretty simple. Once you get it apart, you may find that it is already shielded to some extent.

You don't have to go crazy with the shielding foil and since you already have it, just go ahead and use it.

You will need a soldering iron. For this kind of stuff, hot and fast is usually a good idea to make good solder joints. I use a 50 watt iron most of the time.

First off, take a look under the control cover and figure out where the grounding scheme is centralized. Usually, good practice is to pick one of the pots and use the metal body of the pot as the central grounding point. They probably did that already in manufacture. Use that as the center of the "star" for your grounds.

The control cover should get a layer of foil. You'll also need to make sure that foil is grounded. A common way is to use a small ring terminal at one of the screw holes, with a wire that runs to central ground. You just slip the ring terminal under the screw as you install the cover.

Then you have the control cavity, which is the most work. If there's no conductive paint or shielding there, you'll have to take the pots out, line the cavity with foil and re-install the controls. Usually, the mechanical connection of the pots to the foil will be sufficient electrical connection to ground.

Even though you got the conductive adhesive type, I've found that in a year or two, it isn't so conductive anymore. So at any point where you have overlapped foil, go back after you are completely done and place a small bead of solder to join the foils together electrically. Just a drop will do it.

Under each pickup, you may find a brass shielding plate already. If you can use that with your new ones, you're done. Make sure they have a wire to connect them back to the central ground.

Your new pickups may already have shielded wire, if so, easy-peezy, nothing to do there. If they are just a pair of wires, the easiest way to shield them is just add a third wire and twist them all together at about 1-2 turns per inch. No need to go nuts. That extra ground wire should connect to the foil you put in the cavity.

It is not necessary to hermetically seal the guitar with foil. Gaps are ok. What is important is everything is electrically connected to ground. All points of the foil and all exposed metal and the strings and the nut on the output jack should read close to 0-ohms on the lowest scale of your multimeter.
 
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The wire runs in this bass are quite wide, would It work to wrap a straw with some foil, put the straw inside the tunnel and run the wires trough It?

So do you mean that the tunnels themselves are wide and spacious ?

I’ve tried some things like what you’re describing actually, and admittedly my hands are kind of dumb, but I found it to be very fiddly and irritating, and none of it ever really worked in a way that I could leave it.. high recommend. Just twisting wires or getting nice shielded pickup wire.

If you’re trying to minimize the amount of soldering and rewiring, then honestly what I’d do is just spray some of that conductive paint into the tunnel- I personally had the most luck just masking everything off and directly spraying at the hole so it would drip and run through.. friend who is a tech will apply it to a Q-tip and drag it through to paint the inside of the runs. You just have to connect that run to your greater ground plane. You can do that with copper tape or a bit of naked wire, just make it touch the paint- you can even just lay a bare wire through the tunnel with your other wires, maybe use a dab of hot glue to hold it firm against one spot for a guaranteed steady connection between the tunnel paint and the wire.. then just ground that wire to your ground spot or to the painted cavity.


I also similarly like to bridge sharp corners to make sure it’s all connected, for example I’ll use foil over the corner from the control plate ledge, and the inner wall of the control cavity. I haven’t had trouble with the paint, not connecting over a corner like that if you have good coverage, but it’s pretty cheap and easy to make it foolproof.

I’ll often use copper tape, almost like a PCB trace to pull in different grounds instead of having wires everywhere, and then just screwing that tape down to the paint.. you can solder directly to the copper, tape, etc.. some people say they get connectivity through the glue, but I always fold under and stuff like that to make sure a non-adhesive surface is making
 
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This will be the least scientific response ever regarding 60cycle hum, EMI interference, sheilding etc...A spray can of laundry "Static Guard' sprayed on a paper towel and lightly rubbed onto a pickguard or back access plate has solved more issues for me than any grounding scheme or painting cavities. Especially if you are wearing the ubiquitous tight black cotton t-shirt. And watch the gloss finish on your bass, it will eat it. EMG active pickups have always (for myself) been dead silent.
 
The wire runs in this bass are quite wide, would It work to wrap a straw with some foil, put the straw inside the tunnel and run the wires trough It?

Don't waste your time shielding the wire channels. The RBX170 has exposed pole pieces if I remember right. The surface area of those pole pieces will be greater than that of the wire channel holes. Twist the wires for some shielding.

That being said, does your RBX actually need shielding? Yamaha typically does a decent job from the factory. If you do not have a hum that stops when you touch strings/bridge/metal, then your shielding is already working.
 
If you do not have a hum that stops when you touch strings/bridge/metal, then your shielding is already working.

Perhaps this is pedantic, but-

Doesn’t this actually mean that your instrument’s grounding scheme is working correctly , but that it could also benefit from [some / more] shielding?

Isn’t the goal of shielding having no hum without touching a component of the grounding network? Maybe not for everyone, but it is for me…
 
Perhaps this is pedantic, but-

Doesn’t this actually mean that your instrument’s grounding scheme is working correctly , but that it could also benefit from [some / more] shielding?

Isn’t the goal of shielding having no hum without touching a component of the grounding network? Maybe not for everyone, but it is for me…
That's exactly what @DiabolusInMusic said. Shielding will stop the hum/buzz that goes away when you touch metal on the bass. The shielding must be grounded to function properly or you'll still hear the noise, probably more than before.

Lack of grounding, however, manifests in the opposite way: you hear a noise when you touch. Try touching the pole pieces.

Now it's possible to have both issues so troubleshooting involves checking that everything is grounded and that there is shielding.
 
That's exactly what @DiabolusInMusic said. Shielding will stop the hum/buzz that goes away when you touch metal on the bass. The shielding must be grounded to function properly or you'll still hear the noise, probably more than before.

Lack of grounding, however, manifests in the opposite way: you hear a noise when you touch. Try touching the pole pieces.

Now it's possible to have both issues so troubleshooting involves checking that everything is grounded and that there is shielding.

More pedantry, but that is not what the gentleman said above…
 
For the ultimate sheilding treatment, I have developed RFX RadioOpaque Cavity Lining. It is borne of Cardiac Cath Lab technology. I came up with it while working in cardiac surgery and running life support systems. It is superior to all know similar technologies. Copper cannot compare. Copper really only gets you part of the way; a big improvement but the difference is stark. It goes on as a gel like substance. You an even paint pickups with it. It creates a true radio opaque environment. Hell even Xrays wont penetrate. But if you are dealing with that, you may have a different problem.
 
Don't waste your time shielding the wire channels. The RBX170 has exposed pole pieces if I remember right. The surface area of those pole pieces will be greater than that of the wire channel holes. Twist the wires for some shielding.

That being said, does your RBX actually need shielding? Yamaha typically does a decent job from the factory. If you do not have a hum that stops when you touch strings/bridge/metal, then your shielding is already working.

Hi!
Yeah, it has the kind of buzz that stops when i touch the strings :/ It isn't too bad, i can get rid of It by messing with the tone pot, in fact, this post made me question if i really need shielding or just a noise gate pedal haha