Shorter scale 5 string fretless bass (for high C) - does such a bass exist

#21
If you're not very experienced, particularly with fretless, I'd suggest that you first buy a cheap (Squier,say) fretted bass , and get to like it. If you need the c string, you'll particularly like playing two octave scales with one shift, it's really convenient.
Then take the frets out, fill them with what you wish and get it to a good luthier , e.g. a double bass person, to get the fingerboard dressed properly. The time you get acclimated to the fingerboard and instrument will pay dividends when you start working on intonation. At which time, that one shift will make more sense.
A properly shaped fingerboard is essential for a decent fretless instrument, and you'll have less than $500 into it.
 
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#22
I have a Rob Allen Mouse with a high C. I have flats on it, though.

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#25
Rondomusic currently has a short scale 5 string fretless active/passive that is very similar to an older model I own (and purchased used). It comes new as BEADG but the person who owned the bass before me had it restrung with nicer strings in a high C set and he had the nut set up nicely (which you’d want to do for most instruments anyway). It played and sounded great in that config (though it took me several hours to figure out where to put my fingers lol! I think there’s a 5 string thread around here that basically mentions that it feels like you dont know where to put your fingers at first).
One thing I actually like about SS basses is that it takes less pressure to ‘fret’.
You should be able to find a solution. Maybe several :)

edited to add - Note that the fretless bass I mention above will have the dots at the edge of the fingerboard AT the fret positions, if you mod a fretted bass, the dots will be between the frets. The first time I played fretless it took a few minutes to not shift my hand to the wrong position every time I glanced at the neck, but then I found the dot positions helpful once I switched to thinking of them AS THE FRETS. I really like them at the fret position when I'm playing in less familiar positions up the neck (but you may be more experienced than I and not need that crutch). I will also mention that my particular instrument has the dots ever so slightly off so (which interestingly isn't a problem) ... that may be an issue with the Rondomusic Brices, though I haven't intonated the instrument yet, some of the strings are a little off.
 
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#26
I would use a Squier Bass VI as my base for the project.

Very narrow string spacing, I realize. But I think it would make for a very fun instrument nonetheless.

Convert to fretless, fill holes in headstock, re-drill for five tuners.

Remove bridge saddles, flip bridge plate. Drill bridge with five holes instead of six. Re-install saddles, or have someone like Marc Rutters make you new ones that fit tightly against each other.

If you want the vibrato, you need to have the center four string mounting holes filled, and re-drilled for the A, D, and G.

If you don't want the vibrato, you just have a flat metal cover plate made in this style, but with five holes, with big enough slots of bass strings. Then you should also use nylon bushings around your bridge posts, to defeat the bridge's rocking feature.

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Would have some compromises (most notably being spaced tightly like a Bass VI), but I'll bet it would be a damned fun instrument.
 
#32
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#33
i previously had the impression that the OP's 'ideal' would be fairly easy to find, but the thread responses seem to indicate otherwise. maybe i'm thinking of older rondo listings --- at one time there were multiple listings for SS 5 string fretlesses on that site.

taking out frets on a fretted version of the 'right' instrument seems like a winning idea, though --- good luck with your decision(s), OP! :thumbsup:
 
#37
Frodolicious said:
My hands are small. 34 inch scale is challenging. With a fretless, I think I'd have an easier time with a smaller scale with proper technique.
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If by 'proper technique' you mean stretching your hand to try and cover the first 4 frets, i don't consider that 'proper', it's better and healthier technique to shift your hand. I have big hands and can't cover the first 4 frets, and i don't attempt it as exerting that much pressure while contorting your hand to that degree is not healthy.
30" is still 88% of 34" so any stretch won't be reduced in size much. 32" makes an insignificant difference. Besides, you could just detune a 34" bass by 2 semitones and play higher up the neck when necessary.
 
#38
ixlramp said:
If by 'proper technique' you mean stretching your hand to try and cover the first 4 frets, i don't consider that 'proper', it's better and healthier technique to shift your hand. I have big hands and can't cover the first 4 frets, and i don't attempt it as exerting that much pressure while contorting your hand to that degree is not healthy.
30" is still 88% of 34" so any stretch won't be reduced in size much. 32" makes an insignificant difference. Besides, you could just detune a 34" bass by 2 semitones and play higher up the neck when necessary.
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I agree. For me I’ve discovered over time that I play fretless quite different from fretted. Whereas on fretted I will often hold a position and stretch my hand over several frets to play chords or arpeggios, you really cannot accomplish that successfully with fretless. You need to move your hand a lot more to achieve proper intonation. Also shorter scale will increase possibility of greater intonation errors (just try playing a violin LOL).

I currently play an Ibanez SR505F fretless tuned E-C and it is very comfortable and sounds great. They currently offer the SR375 in fretless, maybe try to demo one of those and see how you like it.
 
#39
serek 5 high.jpg


Jake Serek makes custom basses with a focus on medium and short scales. This one is fretted 32" with a high C, but he also makes fretless, so if you're ok spending some money, he could make what you're looking for
 
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