Stripped Truss Rod Nut

[Crimson36]

Hi. Once I've seen similar problem. A solution was rater doable: remove first fret, cut the slot all way to neck wood, remove/cut/unglue piece of fingerboard from slot to the nut. You have an access to the TR nut this way. Fix it and put back the piece of fingerboard. Sure, it is not easy, but easier than removing entire fb.

I appreciate this idea, but with the nut designed the way it is I don't think I could remove the nut even with this method. I believe the entire rod would have to be removed and it would have to be lifted out of the neck to do so. I believe it's the whole fingerboard or nothing.

That's not been my experience. A few years ago I had my guy remove the fingerboard from a Pedulla thunder bass and replace it with a scratch-built fretless one. I have the fretted one, intact and was told if I ever change my mind he can put it back.

I'm pretty sure it's not removable. The guy I've been talking to is the manufacturer. They're willing to fix this problem but it would require somewhat absurd difficulty and they don't make a lot of money on the fix. So if there was a way to just pull the fingerboard off I think they'd know it, and they'd have the incentive to do it.

Can you cut or slot opposite sides of the rod in order to use a large flat-head screwdriver on it? Perhaps a small drill bit might work? I had a Custom Shop Peavey Cirrus 6 with a similar issue but I couldn't do a thing about it (method suggested above wouldn't work in that case) and ended up getting rid of it - too bad because it was a beautiful bass.

This is my plan B should my efforts to change the security hex key doesn't pan out. I'll keep you posted. There isn't much room to access the nut so getting a power tool in there is questionable at best, but if it has to be done it has to be done.

 

[Crimson36]

I would ask around and find out who is the ABSOLUTE BEST TIG WELDER in your area.
Take the strings off and take the bass to him and show it to him.
A good tig man might be able to put a socket head in there and weld it so you can adjust it with a hex wrench.
BUT, if he misses, it'll probably be stuck forever unless you do like vaesto says.

It wouldn't hurt to ask tho'.

I would be very open to this idea, but do you think there's any way to do any welding inside such a cramped wooden area without ending up with a nice sounding campfire? I just don't think there's any way to generate the heat necessary for any welding technique without lighting the neck on fire. But I will admit I am relatively unfamiliar with TIG welding. So let me know if I'm wrong.

 

[Crimson36]

The current update is that I've begun modifying the security hex bit by drilling the center hole in the hex bit with a drill press. It's been widened but I probably need another round with a slightly wider bit to make the hole big enough. Once I've got that project done I'll give it a try and report back. I'll also probably be using a little bit of penetrating oil as per Chasarms suggestion, and I will also probably put just a tiny bit of fine grade steel wool in the hole to see if it helps me grip the nut better.

If that doesn't work I'll try taking it to the best luthiers in my area and seeing if they have other ideas, and maybe to the best TIG welder in my area (though I'm still skeptical about that plan) as per Lizooki's suggestion. Nothing wrong with a look I suppose.

Currently plan B is to try to cut a small incision in either side of the nut so that a flat head screwdriver would turn it. This is plan B as opposed to plan A because it makes an irreversible modification to the nut, and I believe it's going to be very difficult to get a precise cut in such a cramped location.

I'm still very open to any suggestions. I'll keep you all informed as I go forward.

 

[David Jayne]

"I'm pretty sure it's not removable. The guy I've been talking to is the manufacturer. They're willing to fix this problem but it would require somewhat absurd difficulty and they don't make a lot of money on the fix. So if there was a way to just pull the fingerboard off I think they'd know it, and they'd have the incentive to do it." Fair enough but I'm still calling BS on this. I'm saying this response is completely absurd. This would be the first time in 30 years I've heard of a non-removable fingerboard. Best of luck!

 

[Lizooki]

Tig welding is very "spot specific". That's not really a good way to say it, over simplified.
But the process is extremely controllable by the welder, and he can direct the heat and work in quick short bursts.
But even then, all that will do is make the nut usable to some extent.
It will cut down on how much adjustability you will have I would imagine.