The SCP - Single Cut P-Bass

#42
There might be a better than usual argument for a reversed P arrangement in a five string where there’s always the risk that the B string turns out kind of tubby sounding, and the Quarter Pounder has a reputation for a murky low end. Having the bass side of the pickup closer to the bridge will help fight that. Having said that, if it were me I doubt I could actually hear the difference.
 
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#43
Videojunkie said:
I appreciate the critique about the lower cutout. I think I am pretty set on the aesthetics over potential comfort. 90+% of the time (even when playing seated), I use a strap as I like my bass fairly high on my body. Definitely not a low-slung metal player.

My bigger concern is that the lower horn is a potential weak spot, and could break off. So I am considering running the maple center piece in a diagonal to the top grain. This would give me some plywood like strength for that weak point.

As far a traditional P vs reverse P, we'll see. If someone can point me to some convincing resources that the difference is worth it (rather than vagaries of setup/strings/etc.) I would consider it. Also if there is a particular pickup besides the quarter pounder that's in the same budget, I'm open to suggestions.

I plan on using flats on this bass (probably the TI jazz set, although I've been impressed with the GHS flats on the EUB).
Click to expand...

Concerning the lower cutout, here's an example of a build from Stradi that omits it. Though it may not look right with the scroll for the lower horn there. Just some food for thought...
Screenshot_20220915_073504.jpg
 
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#44
Videojunkie said:
Materials update,

I can't find the 60mm sliders that I wanted anywhere, but I can find the 45mm version at Mouser, and they're only like $2 each. So that's going to be a minor change.

For those who understand such things, should I go with 500k or 250k resistance values? And what type of 0.47uF capacitor do I need to order? (I'm hoping to only make 1 Mouser order...)
Click to expand...

250k for both volume and tone would be standard for a P bass. 500k will give you a little more clarity/crispness/extension on the top end, and is usually recommended for hotter pickups and humbuckers. I've never used Quarter Pounder pickups but I understand they are definitely on the hot and maybe muddy side of things, so the higher resistance sliders might be beneficial. Does SD recommend one way or the other?

Re the cap, you want 0.047 uF, not 0.47 uF. You could go as high as 0.1 uF if you want some extra rolloff into dub territory at the bottom end of the slider. The link you provided looks like the right capacitance, but it's rated for 400 VDC and seems physically quite large (16x18mm), probably overkill. Without getting into any kind of debate on "mojo" for a component that is simply shunting high frequencies to ground, one of the little ceramic disc capacitors is really all you need.
 
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#45
Videojunkie said:
Is this the correct capacitor?

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/FKP3G024704J00JI00?qs=Udj8bnxwiisK7PSPkeqg6g==
Click to expand...

Agree with @NKBassman that 500K pots would be my choice for Quarter Pounders.

The cap above will work, but is intended for PCB mount and has fairly short leads (less than 3/4"). On a slider that might be inconvenient.

Also not trying to get into a tone debate, but orange drops are long time favorites with long leads and a more substantial body to make handling a bit easier:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier-CDE/715P47352KD3?qs=mKWJoQeCbqBdLvKAXhSxSA==
 
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#47
Videojunkie said:
I appreciate the critique about the lower cutout. I think I am pretty set on the aesthetics over potential comfort. 90+% of the time (even when playing seated), I use a strap as I like my bass fairly high on my body. Definitely not a low-slung metal player.

My bigger concern is that the lower horn is a potential weak spot, and could break off. So I am considering running the maple center piece in a diagonal to the top grain. This would give me some plywood like strength for that weak point.

As far a traditional P vs reverse P, we'll see. If someone can point me to some convincing resources that the difference is worth it (rather than vagaries of setup/strings/etc.) I would consider it. Also if there is a particular pickup besides the quarter pounder that's in the same budget, I'm open to suggestions.

I plan on using flats on this bass (probably the TI jazz set, although I've been impressed with the GHS flats on the EUB).
Click to expand...
If you've got a functional bass right now, you could set up a test rig that mounts the pickups above the strings. That way you could test both configurations to see what you like before you install them. Spoiler alert, I've done this on more than one P pickup and... (flame suit on) have not noticed much of a difference. :D Going from 1/4" below the strings to 3/16" below the strings was a more noticeable difference than swapping their positions.

NKBassman said:
I've always been very curious about the Nordstrand BigRig pickups. Supposedly a humbucker made from two 51P-style coils, so it would still fit the theme.

Also, you say Warwick, my brain goes "Jack Bruce!" and then I remember him playing this Gibson EB-1 which has a kinda similar vibe.
upload_2019-3-18_2-34-59-png.3359405
Click to expand...
Yikes that single mudbucker must sound like Billy Sheehan or Jack Bruce. :smug:
 
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#48
I played in the drawing today, and flipped the pickup so the 3 pole piece is on top, with the traditional arrangement, and I really liked the look. I also spent quite a bit of time on the YouTubes checking out reviews on the quarter pounder. I think it will be fine.

Based on the build plan (which I'm still working on) routing the pickup and neck locations is pretty early in the process, as I hope to use some of the holes to hold the templates for routing the arch top.

Basic build plan:
Make neck.
Cut fretboard
Glue up neck blank.
Machine neck pocket mounting
Route bruce bars and truss rod
Cut headstock bevel
Install headstock overlay
Route headstock to final dimensions
Cut fret slots
Decide if the fretboard is going to be bound or not.
Bind/fret/ install markers on fretboard
Shape neck
Seal neck with shellac/finish

Body build plan
build slider assembly
Glue up body blank
Route neck pocket
Route pickup location
Locate bridge mounting holes
Locate slider pocket and route/drill
Drill jack location and holes
Route body to final shape
Using neck screws and bridge screws to hold templates, Route body contours
Sand body contours.
Mount electronics.
Finish.

Simple 40 step plan...
 
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#55
Listened to this video, and while the Labella's were my favorite soloed, the Rotosound 77s have a nice punch. The others seemed to be imitations of the sound that the 77s were 'just right'.

Think I'll start with a set of those and see where I go from there...

 
#56
Videojunkie said:
Listened to this video, and while the Labella's were my favorite soloed, the Rotosound 77s have a nice punch. The others seemed to be imitations of the sound that the 77s were 'just right'.

Think I'll start with a set of those and see where I go from there...

Click to expand...

Roto flats were the first flats I ever tried, a VERY long time ago. They sounded great, but they feel extremely stiff. Food for thought.
 
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#59
Thinking through the neck design. I'm planning on a single 24" stewmac hot rod as the truss rod. I'll need to double check the drawings, but I think it will literally span the whole length of the neck. Is this too long? And should I get a shorter one?

Debating carbon fiber rods. I have the 18" rods that I bought for the Rick-man. (I'm thinking about getting longer 24" ones for that build to match the truss rod.) I can also just get another set for this bass.

Do I want the truss rod to go the full length from the nut to the heel of the neck? I suppose it could help with ski ramp and that kind of thing.

I also have the bruce bars, and am worried about both the transition from those to the carbon fiber rods and removing too much wood from critical areas of the neck...

Part of the issue is I haven't nailed down exactly what the woods will be. I'm planning maple with laminations... But I want to see how that rosewood cuts, and see how much walnut I will have after the Rick-man
 
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