Users of high-end patch cables

#81
TOOL460002 said:
Am I wrong in observing thst the most reliable cables have massive pieces of metal to solder connectors to? That seems like the way to kick your cables around for years and have them still work.
Click to expand...
Pretty much yeah... The problem with low-profile plugs like the super trendy Square Plugs is that if you overheat them the tip starts moving by itself if you move the cable slightly. If you attach the ground directly to the body (like switchcraft) there's more surface to absorb heat and add stability instead if having a small solder lug.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TOOL460002
#82
MAFbass1992 said:
Pretty much yeah... The problem with low-profile plugs like the super trendy Square Plugs is that if you overheat them the tip starts moving by itself if you move the cable slightly. If you attach the ground directly to the body (like switchcraft) there's more surface to absorb heat and add stability instead if having a small solder lug.
Click to expand...
Hmm... So if someone learned to solder on said trendy plugs and definitely, definitely overheated those things, you're saying that they could possibly expect some future failures? Any idea how to test this or just wait for failure? A couple were nearly too hot to hold after.
 
#83
I use the regular EBS flat patch cables (not gold), and they work great. Not one single issue, and I move stuff around pretty frequently.

I make my own cables and use Canare cable and Neutrik connectors. For patch cables, I might use switchcraft connectors - a bit more low profile.

If I was going to make my own - like to wire up a whole pedal board - then I'd probably use the Squre Plug and Canare GS-4 cable. BUT,,, I'm not going to make my own - too much work, small / tough to solder, and the EBS are just too good and easy. And if you want to move something on your board, then you might need to make more cables...

At one point I had a solderless kit, and it was garbage. I also once ordered a batch of "Worlds Best Cables" - which use Mogami cable - but found them big and not flexible.

I did have some noise once - was using a OneSpot daisy chain, which I think was the cause of the noise along with a fuzz pedal.
Currently I have the Eventide PowerMax. Along with my EBS cables, I have no noise / no isues.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jefus
#84
Switchcraft 228s The all metal flat plug held together with 2 screws. Have an old Weller gun for making the shield connection to the plug body. Only use 1 pedal myself, and that's usually strapped to the top of the rig, so I don't need jumpers, but have made a lot of them up for guitar players, made up to the exact length and routing needed for the player's pedalboard. Flexibility isn't an issue, everyone I know has their pedals fastened or Velcroed down, I use - wait for it - RG59A/U coax! That's the stuff with the stranded center core and copper braid, online from L-com. Never had a patch cord fail, I use the same cable for my instrument cord, a little stiff but have been using the same cord for 11 years, tucked thru the strap so there's no strain in the plug, still works perfectly. And that's a 25ft cord, gets walked on. The only time I have had cable issues was back when I was wearing a Rockman on my belt and used a long 3-pair Belden mic-snake type cable to carry L, R, and 12V, expected to need to cut the ends off and re-terminate about every 6 mos. Personally think that oxygen-free-super-duper-paratrooper-magic-music "boutique" cables are akin to a $1000 all silver IEC power cable.
 
#86
TOOL460002 said:
Hmm... So if someone learned to solder on said trendy plugs and definitely, definitely overheated those things, you're saying that they could possibly expect some future failures? Any idea how to test this or just wait for failure? A couple were nearly too hot to hold after.
Click to expand...
If everything is velcroed and held with tie-wraps it should be OK, but if you're touring a lot and you gear gets thrown away you can never be sure !
 
#88
micguy said:
If, by "core", you mean the center conductor, all audio cables are made with "copper cores". Am I missing something?
Click to expand...
Except for the cheap off-shore products that use copper class aluminum!!! Never crossed my mind until I was troubleshooting a weird intermittent issue for a customer and I saw it myself. Just when I thought we had finally hit bottom, a new bottom is created.
 
  • Like
Reactions: andrus108, S-Bigbottom, mmon77 and 2 others
#89
agedhorse said:
Except for the cheap off-shore products that use copper class aluminum!!! Never crossed my mind until I was troubleshooting a weird intermittent issue for a customer and I saw it myself. Just when I thought we had finally hit bottom, a new bottom is created.
Click to expand...

I've never seen that in an audio cable. I have heard of copper plated steel for RF cables, but there it makes sense - the current at high frequencies (way above audio) travels on the skin, so the center part is just there for structure.

Copper clad aluminum is useful in certain things - microphones, for example. The aluminum makes the conductor light, which helps the performance - useful in some models. The copper makes it solderable. Aluminum has a higher ratio of conductivity to mass than copper - high voltage power lines are aluminum for this same reason - good conductivity, and you don' t have the make the towers quite as strong, since the weight is reduced.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TOOL460002
#90
I bought a roll of quality Mogami W2319 cable and a bunch of Square Plug SP500 right angle flat plugs and Square Plug straight plugs from West Coast Pedal Board. (link is the same as the name dot-com)

The SP500 are very slim and small, and the Mogami W2319 is physically small and perfectly matched to the connectors.

The slim connectors and the smaller gauge cable take up a lot less room, and the cable is very flexible. Mogami W2319 is also low capacitance and low noise. (yes, cables can *make* noise, if they move...) and pretty easy to work with.

I setup my board as I wanted it, and then custom cut each cable to fit the runs I wanted so there was just enough slack to adjust or remove things, without leaving a bunch of excess cables.

As far as soldering goes, I'm pretty good at it. I just setup a work space so I could quickly and easily assemble the connectors and cables. It really didn't take long with a decent work flow setup, drilled a block of scrap wood to hold connectors for assembly, setup a ruler for cable cutting, etc. I have thermal wire strippers, but the Mogami wire is very easy to work with regular strippers from Home Depot or wherever. I just recommend nice quality, new strippers with sharp blades to make life easier.

Buy a decent soldering iron, even one from Home Depot can do the job and some quality 63/37 rosin core solder.

It really didn't take that long to do. Took longer to map out the pedal board placement than to make the cables.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TOOL460002
#91
agedhorse said:
Except for the cheap off-shore products that use copper class aluminum!!! Never crossed my mind until I was troubleshooting a weird intermittent issue for a customer and I saw it myself. Just when I thought we had finally hit bottom, a new bottom is created.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I just got tricked by that too. Ordered a roll of 12-ga wire for a high-current test jig and when I got around to actually assembling it, found the wire was copper coated aluminum. It was in the fine print, but I just didn't see nor expect such nonsense.
 
  • Like
Reactions: agedhorse
#92
micguy said:
If, by "core", you mean the center conductor, all audio cables are made with "copper cores". Am I missing something?
Click to expand...

Actually referring to the core of the plug. G&H use a copper core, which you can see at the tip. Many are nickel plated brass, others use steel cores for economy. I don't know if any of this affects sound. Try using a magnet...if it sticks it's steel.
As much as I like and use the gift my brother gave me, I wouldn't have bought it myself. I'm a Switchcraft and Belden guy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Peter - Oregon
#93
If you make your own:

For a basic pancake plug, I like the neutrik rean rp2rcf for $1.80 a pop.
Mogami W2319 wire is .30/ft. A 6" cable comes out to $3.75.

The squareplug sp500 (for example) is $4.15 per plug. They are more
compact than the rean (neutrik's budget line) which I would say is their primary advantage.
They are higher quality, so will last more plug/unplug cycles, but you would have to use
them quite a bit for that to be a consideration.
 
#96
richardroquette said:
If you make your own:

For a basic pancake plug, I like the neutrik rean rp2rcf for $1.80 a pop.
Mogami W2319 wire is .30/ft. A 6" cable comes out to $3.75.

The squareplug sp500 (for example) is $4.15 per plug. They are more
compact than the rean (neutrik's budget line) which I would say is their primary advantage.
They are higher quality, so will last more plug/unplug cycles, but you would have to use
them quite a bit for that to be a consideration.
Click to expand...


The Rean plugs are pretty thick actually. They’re OK as are the Switchcraft flat plugs as well.

But the Square Plug SP500 is a good deal smaller and compact, and worth it for me anyway to tighten up the space on a pedal board. Quality is good and they are easy to build up and solder.

I’ve never run across a solderless cable that was worthwhile in the long run. Short term, can get you out of a pinch I guess.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zanshin_
#97
Ralph Manak said:
While the propensity for tiny things is reasonable, the 1/4" plug/jack is well-sized and proportioned for the human hand, and tends to be robust.
Click to expand...

I think part of that argument breaks down when you consider most pedalboards have everything anchored down with zip ties, and velcro or dual-lock. And most times things are just left where they are once everything is connected. Or at least until a pedal gets added, changed out, or removed. So it’s not like a telco switchboard where you’re constantly plugging and unplugging cords and ergonomic considerations become something to worry about.
 
Last edited:
#98
I love Divine Noise cables. Have a 6ft DN 10ga speaker cable that was sticking straight out the back of my 80’s Acoustic 115 combo. My drunk buddy/guitarist fell right on top of it ending up with the cab on its back and my buddy on top of it. That cable hit the ground with 200lb on top at a 45deg angle and didn’t break a sweat. No sound loss, cable is still fine. Didn’t need the lifetime warrantee. I love having a right angle silent plug on one end. Their Patch cables I imagine are of identical quality but they are pricey!


Mike Caldwell said:
I just looked up Divine Noise Cables, never heard of them before. Looks like decent stuff with legit connectors. Cable companies are good with their marketing lingo though.
This from their mic cable page made me laugh..........

"Until now, the cable world has been entirely without a microphone cable with two - yes, we said two - 20 AWG stranded center conductor cables WITH double spiraled shielding. The advantage of having two 20 AWG conductors is that you pass more of your signal, giving you a fuller, clearer sound. The spiraled shielding (instead of braided) makes for a flatter laying and easier coiling cable. Size, maneuverability, and quality are essential parts of getting the best and most reliable signal from your instruments to its audience."

Every balance line mic cable has two conductors, 20awg is nothing new, there are probably Belden 8412 mic cables older and still in use than some of people at Divine Noise.
For what it's worth I use a lot of Canare L-2T2S.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back