Which bass should I convert to BEAD?

Which bass should I convert to BEAD?

  • Fender Special Edition Deluxe PJ

    Votes: 17 18.5%

  • Fender USA Standard Jazz

    Votes: 5 5.4%

  • MusicMan SUB

    Votes: 28 30.4%

  • Peavey T-20

    Votes: 11 12.0%

  • Peavey T-40

    Votes: 14 15.2%

  • Something "new" to me

    Votes: 17 18.5%
  • Total voters
    92
nickpc

nickpc

Jul 23, 2012
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North Carolina
#1
I'm having more and more issues with my left arm/wrist, and playing 4-string necks is much more comfortable than a 5-string, but I really like that low B. So the challenge becomes picking which bass to convert, knowing that I'll probably have to modify the nut:
  • 2016 Fender Special Edition Deluxe PJ. My passive P-bass. My go-to when I grab a 4-string lately, so not really wanting to change it...
  • 2009 Fender USA Standard Jazz. Intrinsic aversion to modifying a USA Fender...
  • 2003 Music Man SUB. Compensated nut - not super comfortable modifying it. Plus it's my only MM...
  • 1982 Peavey T-20. Not 100% sure why I own this one (I've never played it outside of the house), but I don't think modifying it to BEAD would make me want to play it more...
  • 1982 Peavey T-40. Yeah, staying away from that aluminum nut...
  • Something "new" to me to modify. There are plenty of Squier Classic Vibe and Fender MIM P-basses (for some reason I'm leaning toward a Precision) around that I could grab and modify.
 
#3
Sounds like you're not interested replacing a nut in any of the basses you own, so I vote something new to you.
I had hand surgery on my left hand about 6 years ago and did the BEAD thing but the 34" scale was still uncomfortable on my hand. Ended up going 5 string 31" scale. Maybe get a short scale and convert that to BEAD??
 
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#5
lomo said:
If you use light gauge strings with a 120 B, you will not have to touch the nut.
Click to expand...
Hmmmm. My nut file cuts smaller than that. If you trap a string in a v shaped nut slot that is not cut for that size, it will sit higher above the frets near the nut.

A 4 string fanned fret, 34" nominal scale, or 35" scale (Peavey Cirus) is going to produce a clearer b string tone.
 
#7
Often not just the nut you may have to mod. You may have to make the hole bigger on the bridge for a fat B. No biggie.
You can take off the nut and stow it in a safe place and either start from scratch with a blank or mod another slotted nut. Or just mod the existing nut. Whatever is within your pay grade.
120 gauge is doable for B at 34" scale, but is pretty soft. I'm currently using a Roto88 .135 as a B on one 34" scale bass and it's underlying gauge is prob a 120. I didn't like it much to start with, due to it feeling a bit sloppy on the particular bass it is on, but have adapted to it with a lighter touch.
P.s your one stop shop for BEAD advice

I voted ' something new'. Not as in 'brand new', but something new to begin your next bass adventure. Something you won't have trepidation about possible modding.
 
Last edited:
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#8
MotorCityMinion said:
Hmmmm. My nut file cuts smaller than that. If you trap a string in a v shaped nut slot that is not cut for that size, it will sit higher above the frets near the nut.

A 4 string fanned fret, 34" nominal scale, or 35" scale (Peavey Cirus) is going to produce a clearer b string tone.
Click to expand...
All I can tell you is that I currently have 4 basses that I have converted to BEAD with 60/80/100/120 gauges and they set up, intonate and sound excellent.
 
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#9
I voted SUB due to the fact that these basses are a tad "different" for tones and feel. Plus with the Music Man Pickup (and you can always replace the nut)
it could be a tone monster if setup properly.
 
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#11
nickpc said:
I'm having more and more issues with my left arm/wrist, and playing 4-string necks is much more comfortable than a 5-string, but I really like that low B. So the challenge becomes picking which bass to convert, knowing that I'll probably have to modify the nut:
  • 2016 Fender Special Edition Deluxe PJ. My passive P-bass. My go-to when I grab a 4-string lately, so not really wanting to change it...
  • 2009 Fender USA Standard Jazz. Intrinsic aversion to modifying a USA Fender...
  • 2003 Music Man SUB. Compensated nut - not super comfortable modifying it. Plus it's my only MM...
  • 1982 Peavey T-20. Not 100% sure why I own this one (I've never played it outside of the house), but I don't think modifying it to BEAD would make me want to play it more...
  • 1982 Peavey T-40. Yeah, staying away from that aluminum nut...
  • Something "new" to me to modify. There are plenty of Squier Classic Vibe and Fender MIM P-basses (for some reason I'm leaning toward a Precision) around that I could grab and modify.
Click to expand...
What’s your reasoning for needing the B string? That will help inform any advice you may get
 
#12
I have used a T40 in BEAD and it sounded massive and punchy. Other basses worked but didn't sound as huge. The only other bass I liked down tuned was my Sub4 that was used for a recently finished project in DGCF, when I put my normal set on I fell in love again.
Luckily my main 5 string has rather narrow spacing a Peavey Dyna Bass.
 
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#14
Well...
Sorry, but no "carrot" option = no vote from this diehard Carrot Party member. However...
Sorry, but you are pretty much going to have to modify that bass's nut. Or, do what I did with my BEAD bass; take the stock one off; get a new one, and modify it. When I decided to put that bass back to "normal"? I simply took that one off, and put the original one back on. Sorry, but... the nut will have to be modified; what you do about it, is up to you...
If I had to pick one of those basses to go BEAD with? I'd go with one of the Fenders, for a couple of reasons:
1. Tusq makes pre-cut nuts for Fender basses, so I could either modify that one - or modify the stock one. To be honest? When I do have to replace a bass nut? I always replace it with a Tusq, anyway...
2. One of the major complaints from members of the BEAD club here, is not being able to intonate the B string. A lot of 4-string bridges simply don't have sufficient travel for the E string saddle to go back far enough. I converted an '06 Carvin LB-20 to BEAD, several years ago. Luckily, it's Hipshot "A" bridge did have enough - but, just barely. And, that was probably because of where Carvin mounted the bridge; 1/16" further forward, and I'd have been screwed. Still, out of all the complaints about "not enough travel"? None of them were ever about a bent-plate Fender bridge. Make of that what you will...
So... I say; suck it up about the nut - and pick one of the Fenders... :whistle:
 
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#16
I have thought about doing this for a while. For the bass to cover my gigs, it would need to be 24 frets or more. I don’t think any of your current ones are.
 
#18
Look into the Ibanez TMB35. Short scale 5-string, 30.5” scale, PJ configuration. I have been shocked by the playability and sound of this bass, and all I did was replace the pots and input jack and replace stock tuners with lightweight tuners to help with neck dive. For around $350 new, I don’t think you can go wrong with it!
 
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#19
I voted for the T40 out of curiosity but wonder if it would be too heavy to gig?

However for a modern context, the Sub (with above mentioned 60-80-100-120) would likely be my choice for a working BEAD axe.

For my unsolicited opinion, I’d put some smooth flatwounds on that jazz and call it a day.
 
#20
To take a very different approach to "new"...

Try the Squire Debut Series P Bass available only on Amazon. $130. You can modify the nut the way you wish and go BEAD with little remorse.

I bought mine in June to do this precise thing. put EB Cobalt flats on it. (B at 135). So pleased. Play it weekly in our church band. Started getting compliments the week I started...like most P basses with flats, it "sits in the mix" nicely.

If you don't like it, you still have your existing stable.

I'm astounded at how well it plays.

.
 
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