Which bass should I convert to BEAD?

Which bass should I convert to BEAD?

  • Fender Special Edition Deluxe PJ

    Votes: 17 18.5%
  • Fender USA Standard Jazz

    Votes: 5 5.4%
  • MusicMan SUB

    Votes: 28 30.4%
  • Peavey T-20

    Votes: 11 12.0%
  • Peavey T-40

    Votes: 14 15.2%
  • Something "new" to me

    Votes: 17 18.5%

  • Total voters
    92
Try the Squire Debut Series P Bass available only on Amazon. $130. You can modify the nut the way you wish and go BEAD with little remorse.


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^This.

Go with a squier P from the debut or sonic series and mod away. If you need to drill out the string hole in the bridge for the thicker B string, no biggie. Tusq makes a precut nut, basically a drop in replacement. Also the thin j style neck and lighter weight are great economically speaking. I’ve never played a BEAD bass with a P pickup, but I don’t think I’d be disappointed.
 
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I converted my MM sub and my jazz to BEAD. I like the MM main more in terms of stronger B fundamental.

Filed the nut for BEAD and have switched back to EADG without issues at the nut. No issue for intonation either. Sounded exactly like my 5 string MM sub without the G of course.

I think B strings sound better with a pickup back closer to the bridge. It provides harmonic detail on top of the fundamental.

BEAD is a very simple mod, don’t let imitate you. It is a great way to extend the range of the bass if you need to go lower.

Side note I refinished my subs and have enjoyed them considering I bought both of them for about $800 total.

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The bump going from the bass half of a P pickup to the treble half is bad enough between the A and D strings, I wouldn't want it happening between the E and A.

So I would go for a CV 50s, and perhaps treat myself to a Fralin Split '51 pickup.
 
A 120 as a B will be floppy. A 130 has the same tension as a 95 E string - that’s a light gauge. Anything smaller than that, you’re probably not gonna be happy with.
I switched to 120 after years of playing 130. 120 doesn't feel floppy at all. Keep in mind it's the mass of the string that counts, not the thickness. If the metal used is denser or wound more tightly, a narrower gauge string can have tension equal to or even greater than a thicker string at the same pitch and scale.
 
I switched to 120 after years of playing 130. 120 doesn't feel floppy at all. Keep in mind it's the mass of the string that counts, not the thickness. If the metal used is denser or wound more tightly, a narrower gauge string can have tension equal to or even greater than a thicker string at the same pitch and scale.
I'm very well versed on the Physics involved, and yes, you could in theory make a string where a 120 would have as much tension as a 130. To do that, you'd need to use something with significantly different density. I am unaware of anyone using anything but various iron/steel alloys in string construction, all of which have very similar densities. Alloy 52 is the most different density wise of anything people are using, and you get about 5% density rise from using that - but only on the windings - the core is still regular steel, so you're going to get less than 5% change - cal lit 4%. The change you get form going from 120 to 130, which involves a square (it gets bigger in 2 directions when you increase the diameter) is 17.4 %. The diameter of a string determines its linear mass density, and therefore its tension at a given pitch, more that the specific alloy does. If someone starts making strings with Platinum windings, your point becomes very relevant, but those would lose a lot of level and be ungodly expensive to make, so I'm guessing that won't happen.

If you're happy with a 120, good for you, but I am not. Given all the talk about floppy B strings on here, I'm far from alone. I use light gauge strings - 40-55-70-95-130, and yes, that is a set that's balanced well tension wise.
 
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