Why is speaker wire so thin?

Here's the back of a compact 6 mix monitor rack

It looks simple but that can be deceiving. There’s a lot of work that goes into properly wiring a custom rack. Ideally, I like to run power cables on one side, signal on the other. But there are high and low level signals. Manufacturers don’t follow a standard and position power connectors either on the left or right side of the rear chassis, which complicates things. There could also be AC and DC power runs.

I have an 8U rack, 60 feet of mic cable, and 24 connectors in the queue. A lot of soldering. Rack panels to be drilled or punched and labelled. Days will go into this tiny box.
 
I had to laugh. A guy with golden ears judging the audio quality of a pair of studio monitors.

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It looks simple but that can be deceiving. There’s a lot of work that goes into properly wiring a custom rack. Ideally, I like to run power cables on one side, signal on the other. But there are high and low level signals. Manufacturers don’t follow a standard and position power connectors either on the left or right side of the rear chassis, which complicates things. There could also be AC and DC power runs.

I have an 8U rack, 60 feet of mic cable, and 24 connectors in the queue. A lot of soldering. Rack panels to be drilled or punched and labelled. Days will go into this tiny box.
How about pre-punched rack panels? I have a variety here at the shop.
 
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How about pre-punched rack panels? I have a variety here at the shop.

Yes, in an ideal world that’s how it should be done. I really need to get a full set of punches. The Greenlee ones that I have go through metal like butter and make the job at lot easier.

In this case due to space, the connectors will have to be clustered a particular way on a patch panel, there will also be some ground lift switches.
 
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We were referring to ProCo Fat Max which comes premade with Speakons. I’ve been gigging these for more than a decade. They don’t droop to be caught by the negligent stage walker and make a tidy short connection between cabs. They are like a small water hose. :) I have some more flexible 8 gauge Carver (for all here, the amp company not Carvin) that I’ve had twenty years.
I’m not arguing the necessity for the little sparkly bits to speed down the highway.
I mean why argue size matters? :):):)

I use the Canare quad-core 14AWG stuff. Even though most of my cords are standard 2 lead. The other two connectors are inserted in the speakon and tightened down so to make an even more secure connection although not used. They certainly never get tangled and are both just about the exact right length for my setup. My cables are also super easily identifiable as mine. No chances someone is going to walk with them.

My speakers are wired with 16AWG wire. Done intentionally, knowing that I'm using high powered amps and giving a bit of piece of mind. They do have some strain relief in the cabs though so they're not deadweight on their speaker connections...although the connectors on the 1315LFs are pretty beefy anyway.
 
Yes, in an ideal world that’s how it should be done. I really need to get a full set of punches. The Greenlee ones that I have go through metal like butter and make the job at lot easier.

In this case due to space, the connectors will have to be clustered a particular way on a patch panel, there will also be some ground lift switches.
All the Neutrik D series connectors fit in a 15/16" hole; this narrows down the need for a bunch of different chassis punches.
 
I use the Canare quad-core 14AWG stuff. Even though most of my cords are standard 2 lead. The other two connectors are inserted in the speakon and tightened down so to make an even more secure connection although not used. They certainly never get tangled and are both just about the exact right length for my setup. My cables are also super easily identifiable as mine. No chances someone is going to walk with them.

My speakers are wired with 16AWG wire. Done intentionally, knowing that I'm using high powered amps and giving a bit of piece of mind. They do have some strain relief in the cabs though so they're not deadweight on their speaker connections...although the connectors on the 1315LFs are pretty beefy anyway.
For stage speaker cables I've been using trailer cable, 14AWG in 2 or 4 conductor. It's cheap and has a nice flexible jacket.
 
Yes, in an ideal world that’s how it should be done. I really need to get a full set of punches. The Greenlee ones that I have go through metal like butter and make the job at lot easier.

In this case due to space, the connectors will have to be clustered a particular way on a patch panel, there will also be some ground lift switches.
If you have some rather big projects with lots of punching required, it's sometimes more expedient to get it punched at a fabrication shop. If you are good with CAD software, it doesn't take long to draft up a file they can use at the shop to fabricate your panel. I made my power distro this way.
 
If you have some rather big projects with lots of punching required, it's sometimes more expedient to get it punched at a fabrication shop. If you are good with CAD software, it doesn't take long to draft up a file they can use at the shop to fabricate your panel. I made my power distro this way.

These days they can do some pretty slick things with water jets, lasers, or CNC machining. But punches work well. Neutrik are metric but as you said, you can come close with some of the imperial punches.

I have a really good and inexpensive powder coater and will never go back to paint.

For an application like this, it comes down to budget and deadlines.
 
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