Winter 2017 Build Off - Flamed Claro

Update:

Started to mill out the neck. As I had indicated before, there are some flaws. I need to figure out how I am going to use these 2. Definitely a challenge
I might move the board with the crack to this build and give the flame board to the EUB.
FC11.jpg
 
I will be building my own pup(s) for this one.

Never done this before, so I need to do some reasearch. Unfortunately, everywhere I go on the internet I see our friend from SDG. Really dont want to go there......so..... I'll put my question out here. but first a little background.

A couple years ago, I purchased Jason Lollars book on how to build a pup winder. Great book, and spells every thing out well. Bad thing is, I don't have time to build it.
Ok, so I got a bunch of Amazon gift certs for Christmas. So I go to Amazon, and the only winder I could find is the $499.00 Mojotone winder. Common man. 500 bux?!

My question is...is this thing worth it? Anybody have any experience with it?
 
I will be building my own pup(s) for this one.

Never done this before, so I need to do some reasearch. Unfortunately, everywhere I go on the internet I see our friend from SDG. Really dont want to go there......so..... I'll put my question out here. but first a little background.

A couple years ago, I purchased Jason Lollars book on how to build a pup winder. Great book, and spells every thing out well. Bad thing is, I don't have time to build it.
Ok, so I got a bunch of Amazon gift certs for Christmas. So I go to Amazon, and the only winder I could find is the $499.00 Mojotone winder. Common man. 500 bux?!

My question is...is this thing worth it? Anybody have any experience with it?
All you need to wind a pickup is a motor, a way to count turns, and a guide (which could be the meaty appendages on the end of your arm) @mapleglo and other hobbyists have used sewing machines.

And as for David/Penelope he is a treasure trove of information on pickup winding. That said he's still a ******.
 
All you need to wind a pickup is a motor, a way to count turns, and a guide (which could be the meaty appendages on the end of your arm) @mapleglo and other hobbyists have used sewing machines.

And as for David/Penelope he is a treasure trove of information on pickup winding. That said he's still a ******.

I'm a big fan of @mapleglo and her sewing machine pickup winder.


Moonshine :bassist:

Let me put it this way...Yes, I really want to make my own pup winder, but I'm looking at making at least 1 new jig for this build off. I'll be damned if I ever put a radius in a fingerboard with sanding blocks, ever again. So I have to make a jig for that. I made one a while ago, but it isn't set to do a neck with a scarf. Nor is it long enough for a neck through

So, 2 builds, a new jig, and a pup winder in 2 months isn't going to happen.

Sometimes you have to outsource.

Cheers
 
If you have a drill press you can wind the pickups easily with that. Or even with battery drill. Just clamp the drill on the table, make a temporary wire guide, make rev counter out of bicycle speedometer and you-re ready to go. I wound my first pickups with drill press and bicycle speedometer.
That's @SamanthaCay levels of ingenuity.
 
Perfection Pegs - Knilling

I looked into these a while back. If my memory serves me correctly, there is a higher tension in cello strings, so these would fit my needs. You raise a good point though. I need to look at the string diameter on a cello to see if a bass string would fit in the hole provided

I have a few sets of these for an acoustic bass project. Check out this build:

Bella, a radically different acoustic bass for Hatcher Guitars - The Acoustic Guitar Forum

I've emailed with Mark about the tuners and he had no problems using them for the bass. Depending on the strings, a 4/4 cello can have tension on the A string up around 38 lbs. Bass can be a bit higher than this (50 or so), but from what Mark has said there have been no issues with them at these higher tensions.

For the strings, so long as the tapered end will fit it should be good. I tried with the D'addario strings that I use and they're fine. If you'd like I can measure the diameter of the holes in the tuners.
 
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I have a few sets of these for an acoustic bass project. Check out this build:

Bella, a radically different acoustic bass for Hatcher Guitars - The Acoustic Guitar Forum

I've emailed with Mark about the tuners and he had no problems using them for the bass. Depending on the strings, a 4/4 cello can have tension on the A string up around 38 lbs. Bass can be a bit higher than this (50 or so), but from what Mark has said there have been no issues with them at these higher tension.

For the strings, so long as the tapered end with the will fit it should be good. I tried with the D'addario strings that I use and they're fine. If you'd like I can measure the diameter of the holes in the tuners.

This information is outstanding!!!

Yes, please provide me the diameter of the holes in the pegs. That would be awesome!
 
Ok, I thinks I might be getting back on track

I have 2 neck for 2 builds. The both gave me some problems. Yep, some nasty little cracks
I think I found a fix for at least one of them
FC12.jpg


I know I'll be doing a scarf joint. I had an idea the other day, do I thought I'd mock it up with some scrap laying around. This is a piece of scrap that I had when I was experimenting with various router jigs to get a good angle cut. I trimmed it to the width of the necks I have
FC13.jpg


I then took a scrap of Wenge I had laying around and cut a trench in it the width of my neck. Notice I made it just tad smaller than the neck outline
FC14.jpg


I put the neck in the trench....
FC15.jpg


Now all I have to do is put it on my router sled to top off the head stock plate.
FC16.jpg
 
Of course, one of the first possibilities that come to mind is a no glue headstock. Use 2 or 3 wooden dowels pins, into and through the neck on a 90 to the headstock
 
Of course, one of the first possibilities that come to mind is a no glue headstock. Use 2 or 3 wooden dowels pins, into and through the neck on a 90 to the headstock
I see tuning stability problems with something non-solid between bridge and tuners. I also can't see any advantage of non-glued headstock. Otherwise your headstock joint looks great.
 
Scoops,
Measuredthe holes in the tuners. They're 0.065"/1.65mm as best I can match the hole to an indexed drill bit and confirm the bit diameter on my micrometer.

Geoff, This is great info. Thanks!!!

I see tuning stability problems with something non-solid between bridge and tuners. I also can't see any advantage of non-glued headstock. Otherwise your headstock joint looks great.

In light of what this build off is about, I am exploring this scarf/dado joint combo. Adding a dowel or 2 to the mix is probably unnecessary overkill, considering I could just glue it. But it would be fun to try. If it doesn't work , I can always glue it, which would be my back out option.

Thinking it thru, I could see why there may be stability issues if unglued. If the dowels were a loose fit, I could see where that would be a problem. But lets say I used 3/4" ebony dowels. Make it so that the dowels have a very tight fit, maybe have it "pressed" in. If I could get it to that point, I think it would be incredibly stable.