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Double Bass YAMAHA EUB Megathread
- Thread starter Christopher
- Start date
If it is at all helpful for the situation, I have an SLB-200 and it is very quiet. I'm 6' and have the endpin all the way out. It's a little shorter than my upright, but not at all uncomfortable. I'm super happy with every aspect of the instrument. I did buy the 3 Sigma IR's and will try experimenting with those.
New String Report - I put on a set of Spirocore Solos tuned to EADG. Although in the past I've said that I don't think strings make much of a difference on my SLB300, I may have to rescind that statement.
After a day of settling in, I think these strings are significantly closer to the sound of my Upton hybrid when plugged in. I use a NinoMute, mic setting on #3, blend knob at 3 o'clock, and plugged directly into my AI Coda, with everything set flat.
I'll know more when I play my regular Wednesday gig with a guitarist. I'll go through my Platinum Pro preamp into the mixer on the Evolve 50M system we use. Looking forward to the experiment.
After a day of settling in, I think these strings are significantly closer to the sound of my Upton hybrid when plugged in. I use a NinoMute, mic setting on #3, blend knob at 3 o'clock, and plugged directly into my AI Coda, with everything set flat.
I'll know more when I play my regular Wednesday gig with a guitarist. I'll go through my Platinum Pro preamp into the mixer on the Evolve 50M system we use. Looking forward to the experiment.
I made a minor modification to the SLB200, and I can't believe it took me this long to actually do it. I added a battery indicator LED and I have no regrets.
If you're familiar with the wonderful FDeck HPF pre, then you already know how it works. If the battery has at least 7.5V then the LED will flash once. If it doesn't flash then it's time to change the battery. I don't know how far down the Yamaha can go, so I might have to swap out that Zener for one with a higher tolerance. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it plays out.
15 minutes well spent.
If you're familiar with the wonderful FDeck HPF pre, then you already know how it works. If the battery has at least 7.5V then the LED will flash once. If it doesn't flash then it's time to change the battery. I don't know how far down the Yamaha can go, so I might have to swap out that Zener for one with a higher tolerance. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it plays out.
15 minutes well spent.
- Jul 28, 2009
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- Disclosures
- Is not compensated for endorsements. Does not sell for profit.
Great idea.
I went the other way with concerns about running out of batteries or fussing with batteries at all. I run external power (can be USB or the common 9v pedal power supply or a USB Charge pack). The battery box itself is the adapter.
Mine is a SLB300 though so it's 3v but I don't see why it can't be done for something that runs 9v.
I figured I'm always running the 1/4" cable to something that is powered anyhow so why not just bundle a charge cable with the instrument cable and go external power.
I went the other way with concerns about running out of batteries or fussing with batteries at all. I run external power (can be USB or the common 9v pedal power supply or a USB Charge pack). The battery box itself is the adapter.
Mine is a SLB300 though so it's 3v but I don't see why it can't be done for something that runs 9v.
I figured I'm always running the 1/4" cable to something that is powered anyhow so why not just bundle a charge cable with the instrument cable and go external power.
Once I got it pulled apart I had considered the same. If you look at the pic with the frame on the bench you'll notice Yamaha took the easy way out with that extra 9V snap on the internals. I could easily add an adapter to that and power it with a OneSpot or something like that and keep everything else mostly original (except for that 3mm hole I drilled).
I went this direction because I've been thinking about going the Eneloop route and that would be a simple way to track battery life, or just manage regular 9V batteries. Both options would be better than randomly wondering if the battery was good three months later... and also help me waste fewer batteries that might actually be good but I'm not sure.
I do like your external power option. I bet that makes life a little easier with the 3v option.
- Jul 28, 2009
- 383
- 285
- 4,636
- Disclosures
- Is not compensated for endorsements. Does not sell for profit.
It does. Add a DIY box with a switch that opens and closes the ring+sleeve to turn on and off the bass; now you can just leave everything plugged in at home. Super convenient.
On my 300, the top of the nut is 74" from the floor with the end pin extended as far as it can safely go. The end pin itself is just under 25" from top to tip.
Thank you very much. That’s a bit more than I expected. I appreciate your input and effort to measure this.
This is really cool! Can you share what materials you needed and where you got them? I'm hoping it's some sort of kit
You're welcome. Depending on how big your head is, the nut "might" be at eyebrow height when standing straight up, but probably not when tilted in playing position. Probably not quite right. I'm significantly shorter than you, and play seated, so it has never been an issue for me.
Sure. Francis was kind enough to give me permission to write up an open source build guide to this circuit so I’ll do so in the next week or so.
It’s a super simple board to populate and build. Low part count and inexpensive components. If you’ve got access to a soldering iron and a drill press then you could probably knock this out in about an hour or so. It took me about 15 minutes to modify the SLB200 plate and install the PCB.
I’ll update this thread when I get it finished or you can shoot me a PM if you have further questions. Also to clarify, it’s not something I sell… just making a free build guide for anyone interested.
Well it probably isn't perfect, but I finished a build guide for the SLB200 battery indicator. It's all open source and obviously something you undertake at your own risk. I wrote the guide to be pretty brief with the audience being someone that's probably fairly comfortable with soldering their own PCB and also being intrepid enough to get a drill bit near their SLB200. Sage advice from some random dude on the internet who shared an electronics project with you in a bass forum.
Good luck and may the odds be ever in your favor.
GitHub - Hastyman/battery-indicator: Simple circuit to check battery on power up with single LED flash.
Good luck and may the odds be ever in your favor.
GitHub - Hastyman/battery-indicator: Simple circuit to check battery on power up with single LED flash.
I checked the bass in the Sport Tube as regular baggage. Everything went great! No extra fees!
Does anyone have experience with the BEF2 Extension Frame to give the Silent Bass a little bit more of an AUB feel? I love my SLB200 but can't help to wonder if this will make it easier to use my arm weight/squeeze less w/ my left hand.
I also know I can have a "gotta catch'em all" mentality where I need every bell and whistle avialble and this is essentially a $100 piece of plastic.
I'm sure this has been asked before but I don't know how to used the thread search on the new format and the general search didn't yield any results.
I also know I can have a "gotta catch'em all" mentality where I need every bell and whistle avialble and this is essentially a $100 piece of plastic.
I'm sure this has been asked before but I don't know how to used the thread search on the new format and the general search didn't yield any results.
For anyone who (like me) had to look it up, the BEF2 makes the bout facing your body wider... it seems like it would hit your hip differently. I have the same question about the BKS2, which is the kneepad for support... I think would only make a difference sitting down? Last but not least, I think the SLB-100 had a lower bout extension (to mimic the big lower part of a real upright) but the SLB-200 doesn't seem to have that. Anyone?
On AUB, I play the bass relatively high (nut at or above my ear) and stand so that the back bass side seam touches my hip/belly to make bowing the E-string easier and allows me to use more arm weight to hold the strings (instead of standing on the side of the bass and squeezing, the reason I didn't connect with baby basses or most stick basses). With this, the bout doesn't face my body, it's the back edge of the extension. Again, I may just be in my head about this... I should just carve something and see if I like it.
I couldn’t justify the cost.
I found one on eBay, from Japan.
If it was used I cannot tell.
I prefer the extension piece. It increases the distance of that form to a more realistic one.
I have the extension. I bought it when I was still playing standing up. I think it made a slight difference in stability, but it does not replicate the feel of a regular DB when standing, in my opinion. Now due to health reasons I play seated. It just seems to get in the way, so I took it off.