Chris Cole Slant 212 Build Thread

#48
Freekmagnet said:
Rounding the edges, I used the suggestion posted here. I toe-nailed a little strip into the cab as a running surface for the router base. In itself, the routing process wasn’t too bad, but I did have a couple of minor setbacks. First of all, I had some tear out:

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Additionally, I found out that this so-called “void-free” plywood ain’t all that void-free!

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Basically, I patched the holes and the tear out with some sawdust mixed in epoxy. There were two holes, and I packed as much epoxy as I could into them.

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With a little work from the bastard file, the cured epoxy/sawdust flattened out pretty well. I love this stuff ‘cuz it really stabilizes the splintered wood.

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Once it’s all covered, nobody will ever know.

I sanded the box to 120 with my palm sander. I used a leveling beam to sand the curved edges. Looks pretty good so far!

View attachment 4053880 View attachment 4053881

Next, I have to:

1) Spray paint the front black.

2) Make a frame for the speaker grill cloth and figure out how to mount it.

3) Tolex the cab.

Covering and grill cloth came in the mail the other day. I’ll post it when I get closer to covering the box with it.
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Nice recovery on the tear-out.
 
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#49
Last night and this morning I covered the cab. First I started out by cutting down the Tolex.

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Then, I used contact cement to stick the Tolex to the cab. This part wasn't too bad.

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And here it is...

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I put silver piping on the seams. That was actually harder than putting the Tolex on the cab. I'm going to have to trim out some of the material on the lip on the face of the cab - the grill screen is a little tight in there. I'm going to let the glue harden up a little more before I put the hardware on the cab.

Overall, it looks OK for a newbie build. It'll look boss enough onstage and in my living room.

The next steps I am a little unsure about, and I am faced with questions. Let me know if any of you all out there have any advice.

1) Where should I mount the crossover? Should I put it above or underneath the egg crate foam?

2) Will Super 77 suffice for the egg crate foam?

3) I am assuming that everything is to be wired in parallel. I have two speakon connectors and two 1/4" jacks. Are all these wired in parallel with the crossover and the speakers? All positive wires joined in one place and all negative wires joined in one place?

So now, I'm starting to get stoked about this project.
 
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#50
Freekmagnet said:
2) Will Super 77 suffice for the egg crate foam?
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Definitely. I used it for my fearful build and I was surprised at how well it held the foam. Just make sure you follow the directions (spray, then wait for it to get tacky before sticking the foam on). I sprayed the foam and the wood, but I'm not sure if that's necessary. I can say that my foam isn't going anywhere...it is stuck in there for good!
 
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#51
You could put the high pass on the front to back brace . Most of mine I just put on the back of the cabinet near the input but with the egg crate foam the brace looks like a good place . No need to put the foam on that brace . Yes to #3 , all wiring , positive and negative to the same place . I staple all my damping material so don't know about the Super 77 . The cab looks great so far .
 
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#52
lucas303 said:
Definitely. I used it for my fearful build and I was surprised at how well it held the foam. Just make sure you follow the directions (spray, then wait for it to get tacky before sticking the foam on). I sprayed the foam and the wood, but I'm not sure if that's necessary. I can say that my foam isn't going anywhere...it is stuck in there for good!
Click to expand...

Blues Bass 2 said:
You could put the high pass on the front to back brace . Most of mine I just put on the back of the cabinet near the input but with the egg crate foam the brace looks like a good place . No need to put the foam on that brace . Yes to #3 , all wiring , positive and negative to the same place . I staple all my damping material so don't know about the Super 77 . The cab looks great so far .
Click to expand...

Cool - thx guys!
 
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#54
If your using spray adhesive, spray both foam and wood. I like a few staples for insurance. I'd put the xover on that center brace towards the back, magnets can effect inductors. Looks great man!
 
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#55
I put in the dampening material. That was fairly self-explanatory: measure, cut, trim, glue, install.

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I had some contact cement left over, so I used some of that. When I ran out of contact cement, I switched to Super77. Both worked fine. I had really fragrant potpourri of industrial adhesives floating around my garage.

Next thing I gotta do is cut my ports and install them. Leland sent them to me uncut and I’m pretty clueless as to how to tune them? Any suggestions?

I read something here on this post about 2”.

Chris Cole Slant 212
 
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#57
Here are the (or at least a couple of the) relevant posts re. tuning and port length:

kringle77 said:
Well, the tuning is alot about preference. I have the beymas tuned to about 60hz, internal useable volume is somewhere between 3.3 and 3.5 cuft. That is very similar to the genzler 212t.

The eminence drivers will be tuned around 55Hz or so. I have to swap out the temporary ports for the next drivers so, maybe I'll try the beymas tuned lower first.
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kringle77 said:
I tried some different tunings with the Beymas. I like the 2" long ports much better. Just more solid and full feeling. Satisfying. That puts the cab tuning roughly at 62Hz. As long as there isn't a bump in the wrong region, I like to Tune a cab so that there isn't a dip in the acoustic output graph of the eminence software. I find that having a more solid output down 60Hz is better than having lower extension but, with a dip in that acoustic output graph. That dip has usually has shown itself by giving the cab a more soft or mushy bottom end. For me anyway.

I experimented with the eminence 2512 last night. Nice mids and top for bass. It's sort of a bag end sound. It still has that neo, very clean too end that can get alittle clacky if boosting too and and playing aggressively but, it sounds just great even flat. I started with a lower tuning but, after experimenting and using the eminence software, I put the 2", 62hz tuning ports back in. Just like I thought, the low end didn't really change, but there was more this. The drivers are breaking in now and will get a workout tonight.

My guess is that if someone is playing a "normal" bass head, they may prefer the deltalite 2512 because it doesn't need to be pushed to sound its best. The beymas are just a beast. At lower volumes, they are more clean and blend with the tweet really well. At higher volumes they really wake up and the mids and top come out more. The bottom and is more muscular and controlled too. If you have a big amp and need to be loud most of the time, the beymas are just killer.
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#58
Blues Bass 2 said:
I went to that thread and yes , Chris liked the ports at 2" long for the Beymas . Looks like the right thing to do . He said he tried several other lengths and that was his favorite .
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MarkA said:
Here are the (or at least a couple of the) relevant posts re. tuning and port length:
Click to expand...

Thx guys - yeah, I saw that post and went with 2”. Speaker Hardware was supposed to send the tubes pre-cut at a 45° angle, but I just cut them square. I couldn’t come up with an effective way to cut soft plastic tubes with a clean 45° angle.
 
#59
Today was a big day - I wired up the box and installed the speakers.

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And that was that.

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I’m not quite ready for the full reveal - I’ll do that later today, I hope. I will say this: I plugged my Aguilar TH500 into the speaker, and it was insanely LOUD! Way louder than my Markbass Jeff Berlin combo. The Aguilar is new to me, so I’m still finding my way around the controls. Just plunking around for a few minutes, it sounds really good. Even Tone Hammer, which seems to be a little woolier than other amps of this caliber, sounded nicely voiced and clear. I sincerely doubt that I’ll ever push this cab to its limit.

I have to mess around with the grill and get it on there this afternoon.
 
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