Dingwall Owners Club

I’m planning on maybe buying an NG3 in Ducati White, is it gloss or is it matte? I’ve seen both, does anybody know what year it changed?

I thought it was matte but dont quote me!

Check out these pics:


Also this:

1732025062544.png
 
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Contact Jason fretnation.com . He is quick to respond and ships quick. I just bought an SFll from him.
As others have mentioned there is also John Fox of John Fox basses.
I have never bought anything from John but from what I see he is top notch also. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from either one.
Just installed the back strap lock. Before giving my thoughts, a couple things:
- I'm glad I took my own measurements because JFB's #s wouldn't have worked on mine. Different basses, so that makes sense
- I taped up the surface, used a new forstner bit, and there's still a tiny amount of finish flecking off. It's a clear transblack thing, which is very different than solid finishes
- All in all, installation was easy

Review: I'd recommend it. I wear my bass up high with a thick strap, so the reach reducing benefit isn't pronounced but it's noticeable. The biggest improvement is comfort. Without the RRS, the top bevel dug into my chest uncomfortably. With the RRS the discomfort is all gone.

All in all, I'd recommend it.
Im getting ready to do this myself on my C4 and NG3 5 . I contacted support at Dingwall and Tyler supplied me with some measurements and suggested that I use a shorter screw in the back than the one supplied by Dunlop so that it doesn’t come through the top.
Just curious if you knew the length of the screw or did you just cut down the one that came with it?
 
Contact Jason fretnation.com . He is quick to respond and ships quick. I just bought an SFll from him.
As others have mentioned there is also John Fox of John Fox basses.
I have never bought anything from John but from what I see he is top notch also. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from either one.

Im getting ready to do this myself on my C4 and NG3 5 . I contacted support at Dingwall and Tyler supplied me with some measurements and suggested that I use a shorter screw in the back than the one supplied by Dunlop so that it doesn’t come through the top.
Just curious if you knew the length of the screw or did you just cut down the one that came with it?
I used the provided screw, measured it before hand to make sure it wasn't greater than 3/4 of the body thickness
 
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Iirc there was 200-400 made and I believe they were introduced in 2018

For Canadian models there was far less(20-30) and for 5 string Canadian models I think just a handful(under 10?)

I don’t know if actual numbers have ever been spoken about publicly. Please share if anyone knows!!!
@AB Nate You said you were interested in knowing more about the number of D-Bird Standards that were produced. I reached out to Dingwall, and here's what Evan at DW said:

"As for how many D-Bird's are in existence - my records show there are approximately 85."


To which I replied:

"Wow, I’m really surprised that you only made around 85 D-Bird Standards. I would have thought the number of import D-Birds was much higher than that. "

To which Evan replied:


"I think we transitioned to the D-Roc pretty quickly after releasing the D-Bird (thanks to Gibson's lawyers lol).
You definitely have a unique piece of history; I would highly recommend never selling it!"




I hope you find this info as interesting as I did.
 
Afterburner owners, how comfortable is the upper bout against your forearm when playing finger style? I'm not very picky about basses in general, but something digging into my forearm is a no-go. I have a tough time with anything with a true slab side like bound Rickenbackers or a 51 P-bass. Classic Stingrays are fine however.

Looking at the pictures of an AB there appears to be a very soft step instead of of a true radiused forearm cut. I think it will be fine just looking for opinions.
 
Afterburner owners, how comfortable is the upper bout against your forearm when playing finger style? I'm not very picky about basses in general, but something digging into my forearm is a no-go. I have a tough time with anything with a true slab side like bound Rickenbackers or a 51 P-bass. Classic Stingrays are fine however.

Looking at the pictures of an AB there appears to be a very soft step instead of of a true radiused forearm cut. I think it will be fine just looking for opinions.

There’s no “slab” approach on the AB1 body - the forearm cut functions and feels like any you’d see on a Fender or MM body. The Dingwall cut is more gradually angular and not rounded off , if this makes any sense -very concise and purposeful design. It accomplishes the same goal as a rounded-off forearm cut, but there are defined lines and clear angles involved.

In terms of comfort and manageability playing any style, there’s no difference in comfort or feel between the Dingwall AB-1 design and anything else on the market that has a forearm cut, in my experience. I’ve never even thought about it until you’ve mentioned it here.

That said, the Z body has almost no forearm cut, and still remains amazingly comfortable and manageable. The edges of the Z body are fully rounded. I had to look and double check my own Z to make sure of this. The comfort level places the entire concern beneath the player’s notice. This is in contrast to a Fender slab style body - if you play one of those, you know it because you can feel it.

From my vantage point, it seems like both body styles are built for comfort and speed, and you should have no problems acclimating to the AB-1 body at all.
 
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Hello guys

Some time ago I asked about roasted ash necks and it was confirmed that neck diving does not occur in alder bodies, but it was not confirmed which neck is heavier?

So I contacted dingwall and received the following reply.


[Hi there,

The weights vary a bit, just based on the fact that every piece of wood is unique. I’ll list them in order of lightest to heaviest.

-Roasted Ash

-Maple

-Ovangkol

-Wenge

Hope this helps, let me know if you have anymore questions.

Thank you]

This confirms that the roasted ash neck is the lightest.
 
Hello guys

Some time ago I asked about roasted ash necks and it was confirmed that neck diving does not occur in alder bodies, but it was not confirmed which neck is heavier?

So I contacted dingwall and received the following reply.


[Hi there,

The weights vary a bit, just based on the fact that every piece of wood is unique. I’ll list them in order of lightest to heaviest.

-Roasted Ash

-Maple

-Ovangkol

-Wenge

Hope this helps, let me know if you have anymore questions.

Thank you]

This confirms that the roasted ash neck is the lightest.

That sounds/feels about right to me.
 
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