help me navigate fearful cabs

#21
I just completed a 15/6/1, followed by a 12/6/1 Cube. I play them together in a stereo format. The 15/6/1 on the neck PU, and the 12/6/1 on the bridge PU. WOW it's a really nice setup! If I have to pick just one, it would be the 15/6/1. I have run mono through both, in my opinion the 15/6/1 is a rounder better sound that one would expect from the 15" driver. I don't think you could go wrong with either. I bought the complete kits from Leland, and man what a package he sends out. Everything was there, and it just fit PERFECT!!!! Highly recommend that option of you can.
Jon
 
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#23
LowDownHawkeye said:
I'm not after getting as loud as a 410, but it would be nice to replace my 210.
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Start with one 12/6.
It's probably as loud as you want or need. Don't plan for "if I need more" before you hear how loud one is.
Then again, keep your paint, just in case you *do* decide to build another.
 
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#24
The ultimate in modularity if your head can run in 8 or 4 ohms.
12/6 for coffee house/house gigs.
15/6 for small clubs/bars.
Stack 'em for large venues, or anytime want dual woofer mojo or need 4 ohms (like if you run an SVT).

I built a pair of 15/6 cubes, then later sold off one of them as I never took both. I also had a need for a smaller cab for easier transport on occasion, so I then built a 12/6. As mentioned, both are engineered to pair well together, but there is a slight difference in tone. The 15/6 is a bit rounder/fatter sounding.

YMMV
 
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#25
@LowDownHawkeye ... as many have said, a single 12/6 will perform way past what one may think a single 12" with a 6" mid could possibly do.
It'll very easily replace your 210 with more to spare, and not think about blinking .
I used to run a pair of David Eden D112xlt's... my one 12/6 completely destroyed them by a landslide.

I run my 12/6 with a mere 650 watts bridged , and it's stunningly loud, to me. Im planning to run my Crest Prolite 2.0 again , it's roughly 1200 watts bridged.
I also have a Fearless F210... it's probably one of very few 210's the 12/6 can't beat.

With that said, you definitely won't regret ordering up a 12/6 pack from @lelandcrooks ...
Good luck, and keep us posted
 
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#27
Handyman said:
The drivers in your Carvin 210 have a VERY small xmax compared other 10" drivers typically used in bass cabs.

A single 12/6 will bury your current cab in terms of volume no problem.

Another interesting option if you want to go pre-built
Hathor 1203
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This is very true. I have a Carvin MB210 with the 210MBE extension cab. I also have a Fearless F112 which is louder than both of the Carvins together. I expect that the 12/6 would be comparable to the F112 in loudness.
 
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#28
My $.02: Build a 12/6 cube with the alpha 6.

Biggest bang for the buck.

Once I built the 12/6 cube, the 15/6/1's gathered dust until
I sold the pair.

I built a second, mirror image cube, just because I got the itch to build. FEarful builds are addictive, really fun DIY projects.

The 12/6 cube paired with a 15/6/1 is massive. A pair of 15/6/1's is serious overkill.

The Carvin heads sound great with fEarfuls.

I wish I'd just built a 12/6 to start.
 
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#30
Yeah, that's a valid angle. I thought I would use the "small, medium and large" plan with my cabs. 12/6, 15/6, and both for outdoor big gigs.

Except every time I headed out the door I just grabbed the 12/6.

One thing about the two cab plan, it really lights up the amp. Dropping the ohms from eight to four gives you plenty of headroom.

Or you can leave a cab at practice.

My big takeaway was how big a bang for the buck the 12/6 with the alpha 6 mid was. The added expense of the 18 sound mid, horns, and more complex crossover and lpad in a 15/6/1 almost doubled the price of the build.

I had a ton of fun building the 15/6/1's. But it turned out that I didn't use them once the 12/6 was built. I can carry the 12/6 one handed for a fair distance.

Most any gig that required big volume had FOH PA.

I think the only time a took both 15/6/1's out, it was to a TB gtg. At least that crowd was impressed.

Just my $.02 on horns: at $40-50 for the driver and lens, plus the crossover headaches, if it's just bass guitar, I'd skip it. I ran mine off my GK 1001's high side @ 5k and up. Not a lot of sonic info up there, and that slot already has plenty of noise in a loud band setting.
 
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#34
Handyman said:
To the guys who have built a fEarful: Did you buy a kit, or do it from scratch?
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Scratch, sort of, & I've posted the build threads at GB Forum.

I think an addition question would be "why" a kit or scratch.

I have tools, access to BB ply, and shipping would be death for a flat pack. I did order Driver "kits" from Leland, & would continue doing that.

If I didn't have my tools, and lived closer to Kansas, Flatpacks are the way to go! Not sure if he makes a Cube version though; never checked.
 
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#35
I dont have one. I'm happy with my ampeg cabs for our full on electric gigs. I will say the two cabs I've seriously considered picking up for acoustic jams where I'm the only one playing electric are the greenboy f112 and the ampeg PN210hlf. The thing that both of these cabs have in common is they can both be used like a floor monitor. you can have it at the front of the stage and get that cleaner ampless look onstage
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#40
Handyman said:
To the guys who have built a fEarful: Did you buy a kit, or do it from scratch?
Click to expand...
I've done it both ways.

There were no kits when I built my first one. I bought the drivers and hardware from Speaker Hardware, but Leland didn't stock the coils and caps back then. I ordered those direct from Erse.

My second 12/6 was an early kit from Speaker Hardware. (A failed experiment with shipping precut Arauco plywood across the country.)
 
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