JIO vintage hybrid bass

[JIO]

Maple billet is 'in the house' -

Most likely the top side - it's a bit narrow so I need to determine if I'm going tp graft a length on the lower-side or design to the slab. At 12-1/4" it's 1/2"to 3/4" narrower than an average bass body. I'm envisioning the lower section to be a solid colour fading to a translucent at the figuring, about 1/2 way up. Sorta' like a landscape with the horizontals being 'land' and the figuring 'mountains' & 'sky'. More 'alluding to' than literal...

 

[JIO]

I decided to design to the slab. I revisited my original design used for my SuperB 5'r and Super SLX 4. I also made a commissioned variant which had similarities as it too was a bit narrower and made of flamed maple/mahogany. It's not exactly the same design, but close enough for familiar reference. I'll be using the Johnson neck, and may redefine the hs, or not.

When designing my own basses/bodies, ergonomics, weight and balance are the three 'must apply' physical needs. Also comfort when seated. This design checks all the boxes. Visuals of course are equally important, as Frank Lloyd Wright was quoted: "Form follows function - that has been misunderstood. Form and function should be one, joined in a spiritual union".

Just sunlight activating the figuring - it's going to be stunning -

SuperB - I & II

Super SLX (early stage)

one-off commission

 

[JIO]

I may just leave the hs as-is.., it actually alludes to the way I inset the hs face on my SuperB -

I could sculpt it narrower/more pointy, like the Fender Performer -

...or I could do some scalloping ala Epi 'batwing' hs -

 

[Indiedog]

Sweet!!!!

 

[JIO]

German made Sandberg bridge (shipped from France) I like the clean asymmetric form factor and it has shiftable/lockable saddles like a Hipshot A-style. In fact, it's similar to a Hipshot A-style but curvier. And unlike the A-style, it has a unique saddle locking system (no flat/sharp adjustment bolts). Saddles are unconnected and positioned by hand for proper intonation. Once successfully positioned, there's an internal side shaft that 'locks' it in place. Ok, I'll give it a go. It's about the same price as an A-style. Here's a YouTube tutorial on how it's adjusted -

Hipshot A-style ... I have one on my T2K Mk II

 

[Indiedog]

German made Sandberg bridge (shipped from France) I like the clean asymmetric form factor and it has shiftable/lockable saddles like a Hipshot A-style. In fact, it's similar to a Hipshot A-style but a bit curvier. And unlike the A-style, it has a unique saddle locking system (no flat/sharp adjustment bolts). Saddles are unconnected and positioned by hand for proper intonation. Once successfully positioned, there's an internal side shaft that 'locks' it in place. Ok, I'll give it a go. It's about the same price as an A-style. Here's a YouTube tutorial on how it's adjusted -



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Hipshot A-style ... I have one on my T2K Mk II
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I like the look of it. I look forward to when you have feedback.

 

[JIO]

I like the look of it. I look forward to when you have feedback.

Yah, the A-style is your basic chunk. The Sandberg is definitely more sculpted and I'm curious about the saddle-system.

 

[JIO]

 

[JIO]

I'm thinking of installing a set of the rare and sought-after discontinued Fender PV64 J pu's in this bass. (I have a set in waiting I've been saving for the right bass) But.., not in a standard '60s or '70s J position. Instead, following my Dano made '68 Coral Deluxe Bass & Silvertone Hornets - the N pu at 7-1/4" from the bridge saddles, and 2-1/4" from the B pu to bridge saddles. That way, it's not just a J clone in different guise - more North-South pu placement. (great sounding!) Also want to do some major chambering in the maple & mahogany. That and imbedding a tapped brass bridge plate in the mahogany w/machine bolts to anchor the Sandberg bridge. The neck will also be incorporating a body imbedded tapped brass plate w/machine bolts for an ultra-dynamic neck-body connection. Fun stuff ahead -

 

[JIO]

I routed the 'round-over' on the maple top and filed/sanded the sides. At this point, I'll wait to do more until I get a mahogany slab for the back. The same online company who provided the maple are going to find/plane a 1 piece slab of 1/2" Honduran mahogany.

And... the Chinese neck arrived. It's more or less what was expected. I'll need to do some fret-end work, and although there is a fb extension/ramp... I'll need to do some work on it - nothing I can't do. Also, my initial wanting to copy a hs shape I recently created has changed. I'm not able to replicate the shape on the (blank) paddle without modifying it so I decided to do a 2x2 since I have the vintage Ibanez 'heart-shaped' tuners.

Something along these lines...

 

[T_Bone_TL]

Darn near a star-fleet headstock.

 

[JIO]

Designed the offset/asymmetric hs shape. Wanted to drill the post holes, but the Ibanez ferrules are an uncommon 19/32" / 15mm. Local hardware stores only stock common sizes. Found one (Forstner bit) in the US on eBay - the only one. All others are from China. I don't want to wait forever so paid a bit more. I coated the maple with gun-stock oil to start the finishing process and seal the bare wood so it doesn't get stained by touching it while working on it.

 

[JIO]

The 15mm Forstner bit arrived today!! ~zowie, that was fast! - it was in NY! Drilled the hs post holes & will cut out the shape tomorrow.

 

[JIO]

Sooo..., best laid plans of mice & dealing w/China. The neck is not 32" scale - it's 34" scale. Doubt I'll attempt dealing with a Chinese maker again. Will do some refinement overall & sculpting on the upper bevel tomorrow.

Not going to waste time/energy dealing with the Chinese company anymore - I'll just roll with it as 34"... not the worst thing that could happen.

I like my redesign better - it's a good mix of vintage design cues from the '60s thru the '80s. Overall length 46" - very standard. (fits generic gig-bags/HSC's) Will chop the 24 fret to 21 frets and include a fb ramp. Upper horn at the 12th fret for proper balance. 'Butt'/base with off-set body incorporating my offset Dunlop Strap-Lok & strap balance design that keeps the bass upright w/o a stand leaning against your amp during a break. I don't know of any other maker who does this - a simple solution that gigging/rehearsing musicians appreciate. N-pu at 8-3/4" from the bridge, B-pu at 3.5"... dictated by the set vintage pg spacing requirements. Not common, so it'll either sound awesome... just ok, or like monkey poop. I'll guess it'll look & play awesome and sound like a bass!

 

[gtirard]

Sooo..., best laid plans of mice & dealing w/China. The neck is not 32" scale - it's 34" scale. Doubt I'll attempt dealing with a Chinese maker again. Will do some refinement overall & sculpting on the upper bevel tomorrow.

View attachment 7078918 View attachment 7078919
Not going to waste time/energy dealing with the Chinese company anymore - I'll just roll with it as 34"... not the worst thing that could happen.
View attachment 7078921
I like my redesign better - it's a good mix of vintage design cues from the '60s thru the '80s. Overall length 46" - very standard. (fits generic gig-bags/HSC's) Will chop the 24 fret to 21 frets and include a fb ramp. Upper horn at the 12th fret for proper balance. 'Butt'/base with off-set body incorporating my offset Dunlop Strap-Lok & strap balance design that keeps the bass upright w/o a stand leaning against your amp during a break. I don't know of any other maker who does this - a simple solution that gigging/rehearsing musicians appreciate. N-pu at 8-3/4" from the bridge, B-pu at 3.5"... dictated by the set vintage pg spacing requirements. Not common, so it'll either sound awesome... just ok, or like monkey poop. I'll guess it'll look & play awesome and sound like a bass!
View attachment 7079020

I love this design. The headstock reminds me of my Ovation Magnum II (I think yours look even better).
I love the heart-shaped tunners, where did you find them?
And everything else look really good, I'm glad I'm following this thread, it's super cool to follow the progress of your project.

'Butt'/base with off-set body incorporating my offset Dunlop Strap-Lok & strap balance design that keeps the bass upright w/o a stand leaning against your amp during a break.

Very smart. The G&L Asat bass has a slightly different solution, using 2 strap buttons. I've had a custom bass made with the same solution, it was super cool (I never bring a guitar stand to rehearsals, and often leave my bass standing upright against my amp, and I hate when it's unstable).

 

[JIO]

I love this design. The headstock reminds me of my Ovation Magnum II (I think yours look even better).
I love the heart-shaped tunners, where did you find them?
And everything else look really good, I'm glad I'm following this thread, it's super cool to follow the progress of your project.



Very smart. The G&L Asat bass has a slightly different solution, using 2 strap buttons. I've had a custom bass made with the same solution, it was super cool (I never bring a guitar stand to rehearsals, and often leave my bass standing upright against my amp, and I hate when it's unstable).

View attachment 7079192

Thanks for your kind words! Yes, I looked to the Ovation Magnum for inspiration. I made a custom bass using a Magnum neck. It was a hybrid of a Magnum and a late '60s Ampeg "Devil bass". I found the Ibanez 'heart-shaped' tuners on eBay. I've bought a few 4-inline sets over the years but this was the 1st 2+2 I bought. There are sellers who sell each tuner individually (for more) but every now and then a set will come up for under $100. And the no-guitar stand idea - I have a modded Fender '51 P RI that I incorporated the G&L two-strap-peg concept. Works great on a flat-bottom body. Your bass looks pretty cool - who made it?

I designed the body so it would stand upright on its own.

T2K Mk II (Tele 2000, second iteration)

 

[gtirard]

Your bass looks pretty cool - who made it?

Thank you. I designed it and a friend amateur luthier (my drummer) has built it for me - but unfortunately burglars have stole it since then, which drives me crazy because it had no financial value but a lot of sentimental value.

I love your work, congrats.

 

[JIO]

Thank you. I designed it and a friend amateur luthier (my drummer) has built it for me - but unfortunately burglars have stole it since then, which drives me crazy because it had no financial value but a lot of sentimental value.

I love your work, congrats.

I'm sorry to hear that. Many years ago ('78) I was the victim of an apartment break-in in which my '63 Thunderbird II was stollen. If on-line information is to be believed, only a few were sold in '63 - its 1st year. I didn't know this at the time but knew it was a '63 because I sent a letter to Gibson with its serial # and they sent a post card informing me it was made in 1963. (post-card went missing years ago~) I bought it from a pawn shop a few years earlier for $150 w/OHSC. Needless to say, it would be worth well over $10K today, if it's still in one piece. (hs's were know to break and many were parted-out)

I'd like to see a pic of the whole bass - what year was it stollen? I'll keep my eye's open as I scan eBay/Reverb and local shops a lot.

 

[JIO]

Neck surgery - I added a thin shim on the G-side heal side to allow the bandsaw blade to cut on the line (neck heels are generally tapered, as this one is) clamped the neck to my 90 degree bandsaw guide (too dark to see in this pic) This was to cut the neck to the fb overhang after I cut the three frets off. (sorry.., confusing) Once cut, I scored the fb with a snap-blade knife and it separated easily.

I cut three frets worth of neck real-estate skimming the bandsaw blade on the 22nd fret. Slice-o Neck-ick!

Cut right to the end of the tr which I scientifically planned (er... was lucky!)

Rounded the corners on both fb & heal - the pg opening corners were broader, so I filed them tighter to match the heal. So far so good.

From 24 to 21 - as easy as 1-2-3! Next... sculpt the bevel on the top of the hs -

 

[JIO]

Rasps, files, sandpaper, wipe-on satin poly - next step(for the neck) is to address the fret-ends, which I anticipated would not be dressed. (and they weren't - sharp cuts only) I'll also be adding aluminum side position markers and need to think about what type of fb markers I want. As it is 'retro' inspired, a blank fb seems too modern. Hummm... and I just realized I'll need to design and cut a tr cover.

I think I'll treat the hs face like I did with my Supersonic, which has a similar bevel -

Now that I have the neck/neck-pocket determined, I'll also start working on the body. 1st thing I do is rout the neck pocket, then cut out the body perimeter/shape. The Jelutong slab will hopefully be softer than maple (both the top of the other concurrent build of mine here, and this neck) as sculpting maple is a chore. I get why it is used for necks - it's a very dense/hard wood. As far as sculpting bodies go, basswood is really nice. Mahogany is good also, and alder. I made my Ex-Factorbird fretless body of old-growth Koa - that is a very dense/hard wood! Heavy also. But perfect for a fretless -

(currently strung BEAD - with the Ex-Factor capo off - low A)

Koa holds a shape like nobodies business - no 'finish' other than polish... only ebony would be harder but it's way more brittle.