I agree. I would also not have cut on the treble side of the bridge and probably not have the bottom cut that was intended for the Kubicki tuner access but that’s me. I am really interested in your impression of the tuner action once in a playable state.I got the tail end shaped. I think I may have to fill the straight corners of the bridge ”block” to a rounded corner. That would look better IMO.
Couple of hours per day and I get a lot of progress.Wow you work fast!
..but you're supposed to spend all winter working on them so the sun and salt can destroy them again the next summer, and the cycle goes on. So working on guitars is just stealing time you should be working on boats, innit?I share a shop with my brother next town over, so it’s just stolen weekend time for me, and only winters. Glacial progress. Pretty booked up all summer on weekends, when I remember I live on Cape Cod, where it’s all about the boats.
For this build I wanted tuners that are oriented like on Kubickis. They are Riviera tuner bridges from Italy.
I guess my vague recollection of how I thought Kubicki tuners worked ( I was shown one at the store that did my mandolin refret in the 1980's, but way more money that my "somewhat interested in bass broke student self could even consider at the time) must be incorrect. Perhaps I should try building what I thought they worked like.They have left handed threads on the knob screw. Steinberger tuners pull the string tight, these push the string.
There are wheels, turned by the tuner knobs, which can tension or loosen the strings. The wheels are shaped somewhat like a gear so that they can be tightened (by one's thumb/finger) to capture the slack quickly, while installing strings. There are also quick release levers that allow the tensioning wheels (gears) to turn free so that the string can slip out: Great design. P.K. was a sharp guy.I guess my vague recollection of how I thought Kubicki tuners worked ( I was shown one at the store that did my mandolin refret in the 1980's, but way more money that my "somewhat interested in bass broke student self could even consider at the time) must be incorrect. Perhaps I should try building what I thought they worked like.
Nice, neat work, Marko! You're getting good with those brass inserts.Headstock end pretty much done. I need to buy a new M5 bottom thread tap so I can thread the set screw threads all the way. I may be able to test assemble the bass tomorrow.
Thanks Bruce! Wish I had a small lathe and mill. I wouldn’t have to misuse my drill press and cross feed table. But with this limited space I have at home garage I have to use what fits there.Nice, neat work, Marko! You're getting good with those brass inserts.