I get the concept, but I'm not sure what you're doing specifically. Could you take a pic of it, possibly, and post it in here? That would be awesome because although it's not a major hassle, it is a minor annoyance.
Something like this?
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RedSub Coliseum Fanned Fret 5-String Bass
- Thread starter Paul Leech
- Start date
I get the concept, but I'm not sure what you're doing specifically. Could you take a pic of it, possibly, and post it in here? That would be awesome because although it's not a major hassle, it is a minor annoyance.
Something like this?
I buy flourescent tape on a roll. It's available in different colours but I've found that cream/white works best for me. Here's my Human Base Roxy 5;
Some makers use ' glow ' side markers already. I think that Michael Kelly does.
Incidentally- I went for a Dingwall Combustion 5-string but I just couldn't find any multiscale -length flatwounds for it- so I cancelled. Dingwall don't make them and their 37" scale require a speaking-length of 38 1/2 inches.
Glad you like the bass but you should try some other five strings as well just for reference. There are many basses that have killer B strings at 34", and sometimes less.
Few months pass , £150 left the account last Thursday and I'm now the owner of a RedSub 
Having never played a multi scale before I'm surprised just how easy it is
First thing on the cards will be getting rid of those D'Addario strings.
Having never played a multi scale before I'm surprised just how easy it is
First thing on the cards will be getting rid of those D'Addario strings.
Yeah, I could see something like that working on the RedSub (since watching part of the Beatles documentary on Disney+ recently, I can't stop "Yellow Submarine" from playing in my head when I mention RedSub ¦-). It's definitely still an issue as I'm having constantly having issues keeping my bearings fret-wise. I don't know how much money it saves (if any) but it's by far one of the worst design ideas ever. I have an Ibanez guitar that uses it as well, which I don't like on there either, but it's easier to get my bearings on a guitar. Nevertheless, EPIC fail in any case...
Few months pass , £150 left the account last Thursday and I'm now the owner of a RedSub
Having never played a multi scale before I'm surprised just how easy it is
First thing on the cards will be getting rid of those D'Addario strings.
View attachment 4497324
Other than the strings, how do you like it? Still play mine all the time. It's a bit heavier than I like;I hate the dot positions on the frets & the pots are a bit rougher than they should be, but otherwise I'm very happy with mine...
@Paul Leech
I've still to change the strings but other than that it's fine. No issues with fret markers ,never been one to look at them.
Finish up end of this week so I'll spend some more time with it.
I've still to change the strings but other than that it's fine. No issues with fret markers ,never been one to look at them.
Finish up end of this week so I'll spend some more time with it.
A little surprised that there hasn't been more activity in this thread. They're on about a 7 month back-order now though...
they are back on the menu! got myself one
It can't hide it's $300 price tag: Nut wasn't glued on and had moved during shipping, it has a little dent on the headstock, frets are sharp, the battery holder seems to not make good contact. I took it to band practice and the strap screw jumped out after first song. It looks like the whole was drilled too wide and they had used a little metal scrap to help the screw hold in place. Had a few "cuts/scratch" in the sound when holding it upside down (probably battery moving, maybe bad soldering somewhere? kind felt like when a jack cable isn't 100% plugged in)
That's... quite some flaws. Otoh, necks feels amazing to play and I reaaaally like the sound of it. Since that's the reason I wanted that bass, I'll probably keep it and repair the flaws myself (shipping it back would probably cost me too much and I have no guarantee the next one will be better).
The sound cutting is the only thing I'm a bit scared about, have to find out why that happened. If anyone has an idea what to look for, I'd take it (I'll open the bass tonight)
It can't hide it's $300 price tag: Nut wasn't glued on and had moved during shipping, it has a little dent on the headstock, frets are sharp, the battery holder seems to not make good contact. I took it to band practice and the strap screw jumped out after first song. It looks like the whole was drilled too wide and they had used a little metal scrap to help the screw hold in place. Had a few "cuts/scratch" in the sound when holding it upside down (probably battery moving, maybe bad soldering somewhere? kind felt like when a jack cable isn't 100% plugged in)
That's... quite some flaws. Otoh, necks feels amazing to play and I reaaaally like the sound of it. Since that's the reason I wanted that bass, I'll probably keep it and repair the flaws myself (shipping it back would probably cost me too much and I have no guarantee the next one will be better).
The sound cutting is the only thing I'm a bit scared about, have to find out why that happened. If anyone has an idea what to look for, I'd take it (I'll open the bass tonight)
Sorry to hear about all of the flaws yours came with. Mine didn't have any of those problems, so I'm thinking it's due to them rushing them out to deal with the backlog. Mine is still going strong two years later and haven't had a single issue with it since my last post. I'm still totally blown away by how remarkably well it holds tune. Think I had to tune the G string up a quarter turn yesterday but that's the first time it was noticeably out–but just barely–in 6 months. I tune it any time I'm going to record something but as far as just picking it up and playing it and having to tune it cuz it was obviously out, I can't remember the last time that happened. Are you still happy with it 6 months later?
hi every one
I'm just giving my 2 cts because I bought this bass ( actually a G4M 972) , I hung around this thread to gather some feedback (and I thank you for that) and here it is, I just unboxed it 15 mn ago and I must say I am shocked
I mean I had dozens of bass guitars an guitars, I like to tinker it, I already bought several instruments that was damaged or unfinished to upgrade it, I have no problem with setting a neck, doing a fret job, etc...
But the thing I had in my hands feels so crappy that I did something I never did before ; I asked for a return like in the minute.
I was shocked by the sh£@$y finish at the back of the headstock, but we can survive this, I was not that surprised by the single bridges and their height .
I now that kind of aluminium cheapo stuff and it deserves either to be filed, or to be replaced)
but the thing is that the nut of the truss rod is F£%*ed up !
That means the bass has been already played and screwed by someone... and scratch is a thing, but a f=+*ed up truss is actually a pretty severe structural damage. How the heck dare they sold that
???
That's mystery to me.
The overall feel of the bass is very cheap and crappy, I have some buzz everywhere on the neck even with that incredibly high strings... I mean only punk rockers could have it play, and they would buy this kind of bass.
The pros are that the back of the neck feels indeed pretty decent and I find the balance and the ergonomic pretty cool... But does it worst the struggle ? Surely not....
I Paid it 279€ and... now I realize that it may have been on B Stock . But even in B stock you can't sell an instrument with a neck that you couldn't set up, that's nonsense to me.
I'm just giving my 2 cts because I bought this bass ( actually a G4M 972) , I hung around this thread to gather some feedback (and I thank you for that) and here it is, I just unboxed it 15 mn ago and I must say I am shocked
I mean I had dozens of bass guitars an guitars, I like to tinker it, I already bought several instruments that was damaged or unfinished to upgrade it, I have no problem with setting a neck, doing a fret job, etc...
But the thing I had in my hands feels so crappy that I did something I never did before ; I asked for a return like in the minute.
I was shocked by the sh£@$y finish at the back of the headstock, but we can survive this, I was not that surprised by the single bridges and their height .
I now that kind of aluminium cheapo stuff and it deserves either to be filed, or to be replaced)
but the thing is that the nut of the truss rod is F£%*ed up !
That means the bass has been already played and screwed by someone... and scratch is a thing, but a f=+*ed up truss is actually a pretty severe structural damage. How the heck dare they sold that
???That's mystery to me.
The overall feel of the bass is very cheap and crappy, I have some buzz everywhere on the neck even with that incredibly high strings... I mean only punk rockers could have it play, and they would buy this kind of bass.
The pros are that the back of the neck feels indeed pretty decent and I find the balance and the ergonomic pretty cool... But does it worst the struggle ? Surely not....
I Paid it 279€ and... now I realize that it may have been on B Stock . But even in B stock you can't sell an instrument with a neck that you couldn't set up, that's nonsense to me.
Glad I saved up for the Spector Dimension HP5 then.
It has a few small issues, but none I can't live with. It is gorgeous!
It has a few small issues, but none I can't live with. It is gorgeous!
I ´me back … a few weeks later.
After the shop returned me a brand new model.
And I actually changed my mind; I share it on here
Finally the unplayability ( strings height) was because of the neck now of the stock B model I returned.
The action is still a bit too high to be perfect , even if the bass came with every saddle set at his lowest . But it’s still better… not a all the same feeling.
The whole bass is flawless ( ok I have the neck screws a little bit scratched and a little bit of the black paint is missing but come on …)
On the recent G4M models we don’t have a matching headstock , but that cheap looking black and red paint.
I must say I don’t like the finish … Normally I love Buckeyed birl finish but here it’s really not highlighted… I even thought it was like a photo or something.
That green clown burst Halloween style is just horrible to me.
Also I had a lot of buzz on that fingerboard, I had to do a fret leveling by myself , if not I just loose the use of the 13th fret.
But honestly I’m considering about keeping it… that ergonomy, that feeling is just great ! That design is a total success ! And that’s pretty confusing that blend of cheap and gray feeling . It’s a beast to mod and upgrade, if not there’s no sense.
Even the electronic is not that bad . That sounds pretty good ! Basically I avoid active preamp etc, specially the cheap ones. But that one makes the job amazingly, on a feeling pretty heavy and brutal I guess.
It’s a good bass for the value
After the shop returned me a brand new model.
And I actually changed my mind; I share it on here
Finally the unplayability ( strings height) was because of the neck now of the stock B model I returned.
The action is still a bit too high to be perfect , even if the bass came with every saddle set at his lowest . But it’s still better… not a all the same feeling.
The whole bass is flawless ( ok I have the neck screws a little bit scratched and a little bit of the black paint is missing but come on …)
On the recent G4M models we don’t have a matching headstock , but that cheap looking black and red paint.
I must say I don’t like the finish … Normally I love Buckeyed birl finish but here it’s really not highlighted… I even thought it was like a photo or something.
That green clown burst Halloween style is just horrible to me.
Also I had a lot of buzz on that fingerboard, I had to do a fret leveling by myself , if not I just loose the use of the 13th fret.
But honestly I’m considering about keeping it… that ergonomy, that feeling is just great ! That design is a total success ! And that’s pretty confusing that blend of cheap and gray feeling . It’s a beast to mod and upgrade, if not there’s no sense.
Even the electronic is not that bad . That sounds pretty good ! Basically I avoid active preamp etc, specially the cheap ones. But that one makes the job amazingly, on a feeling pretty heavy and brutal I guess.
It’s a good bass for the value
@liquidsunshine I just got one. Here's my review. I like it a lot.
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/nbd-g4m-fanned-fret-5-string.1640729/
As we’re back in the topic I want to share you a picture of the neck pocket: as you can see the raw wood of the body and the top are visible.
So we can be sure that it is not a buckeyed birl top.
I mean a real top would be at least 5 mm thick . Here it’s very narrow
Like a leaf… I was even thinking it is a PICTURE
Indeed Buckeyed birl is pretty fragile and I don’t understand how they could work sutch a narrow piece without breaking it to pieces .
But putting a different picture for each model makes no sense and may be very expensive.
So I actually don’t now what it is.
I’m pretty attempted to sand it, because I actually like the feeling of that bass but that look sucks .
To be followed
So we can be sure that it is not a buckeyed birl top.
I mean a real top would be at least 5 mm thick . Here it’s very narrow
Like a leaf… I was even thinking it is a PICTURE
Indeed Buckeyed birl is pretty fragile and I don’t understand how they could work sutch a narrow piece without breaking it to pieces .
But putting a different picture for each model makes no sense and may be very expensive.
So I actually don’t now what it is.
I’m pretty attempted to sand it, because I actually like the feeling of that bass but that look sucks .
To be followed
Attachments
If it definitely is a wood then that veneer looks.5 mil thick or less. This appears to be possible if you read this website that says burl can be cut 0.15 to 0.25 mm. It makes reference to these veneers being made in China.As we’re back in the topic I want to share you a picture of the neck pocket: as you can see the raw wood of the body and the top are visible.
So we can be sure that it is not a buckeyed birl top.
I mean a real top would be at least 5 mm thick . Here it’s very narrow
Like a leaf… I was even thinking it is a PICTURE
Indeed Buckeyed birl is pretty fragile and I don’t understand how they could work sutch a narrow piece without breaking it to pieces .
But putting a different picture for each model makes no sense and may be very expensive.
So I actually don’t now what it is.
I’m pretty attempted to sand it, because I actually like the feeling of that bass but that look sucks .
To be followed
https://www.woodenave.com/product/paper-thin-wood-veneer/
If it's printed, then -I've been thinking about this - and wondering if they've had the pattern printed on to a large format medium like A0 size roll, with a large repeat pattern you may find on some wallpapers. Therefore when the print is cut for the body there is a low probability that you would get two patterns exactly the same over a sample of say 50 or 100 especially if you take random cuts and overlaps.
I quite like the finish actually but I'm not precious about it.
In my review I mentioned that I'm puzzled about the bunched up pickup positioning and @Sortarican replied that its possible they were thinking of it being a 3 pickup bass when they made it. That got the tiny cogs in my brain working and @kodiakblair has kindly offered to supply me another pickup and suggested that the blend pot is replaced with a multi position rotary switch that can be used to dial through the different pickups.
If I'm going to go ahead, then I'll probably sand the finish off like you. I may make a statement and finish it in Dayglo pink as all the rest of my basses are black, natural or fireglo. And we all like colours don't we.
It's veneer, very common in furniture and woodworking circles. I buy all of mine from here.
Natural Wood Veneers - Full Range - The Wood Veneer Hub
Printed grain is a similar process, normally just paper. Fender Japan coined the phrase "Foto Flame", it's a cheap yet effective way to hide plain looking timber like Alders and Basswood/Linden. Looks great under amber burst finishes.
Thicker material, though technically still veneer, are generally called caps or drop tops.
Purpose of all 3 is the same; cosmetic