Twelve String Club - 12 String Octave - Post em'

#82
12bass said:
Hey Michael,

Just downloaded the Grip Weeds sampler.... sounds good! If you don't mind, can you point out the tunes with 12-string bass?

Thanks!
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Thank YOU!

The song is called Mr. X...(it's not on the sampler). It was the LAST song we recorded on for the double album...and I got it a week before!.

Went through Marshall 1959 Super Lead 100w Head (1971) and 4x12 Cabinet. What a blast

But I know it's out there on the internet...somewhere!

Thanks again for downloading
 
#83
12bass said:
Hmmm.... post didn't seem to show up in my subscriptions....

Anyway, yes, the two truss rods are accessible underneath the cover on the headstock. I've found that adjusting them can be a bit of a "black art". On my B12L, the bass side rod provides the bulk of the tension while the treble side is just snug enough so that it doesn't rattle. It also appears that the bass side rod serves to reduce the bow on the treble side of the neck and vice versa, which is counter-intuitive. To start, I'd suggest simply tightening both evenly, just a little bit at a time, and see if that puts the relief where you want it. Might also help if you provide a bit of assistance by pushing the neck a little manually.
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thanks - that's kinda how i adjust my tobias - usually with a lil push and maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn each time and then play it. I never noticed the counter-intuitive results, but then again the tobias is level - so i adjust a few times a year for weather (too much relief, too little, different gauge strings, bass decides to be a jerk, etc....), and i adjust both the same.

edit: btw - the cat shipped it with the strings way detuned - i assume this was due to heat and fear of UPS skulduggery. (i saw the bass at the PA guitar show and played it so it wasn't sight unseen - but i was tortured enough to finally call him and buy it)! I've never seen a bass shipped quite that detuned - is this normal for a 12?
 
#86
the people at hamer tell me that This is the tool to use on Hamer basses to adjust the truss trods.

also, poking around I found one Setup guide by Jerzy Drozd which talks about parallel vs diagonal dual truss rod systems, and it's possible that the Hamer and some other 12 string basses might use the latter, in which case the treble side rod is the one carrying most of the tension - but I haven't gotten Hamer to confirm (if they even know any more) which type they use.

In any event, the new bass has been quite a workout, and my 4 string feels tiny when i pick it up.
 
#87
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That's it - doing some research i decided to give SIT strings a try as the strings on mine are pretty deal - i'm 99% sure the octaves are original 1998 and the primaries are pretty old and probably regular medium gauge. I've read good stuff about the SIT nickel, but now they offer steel as well and I was wondering if anyone had experience with them. In either event they're cheaper than the Hamer (now made by Adamas not Dadario), and cheaper than the actual Dadario strings which folk seem to prefer the SIT nickel to.
 
#88
just put on the SIT nickel and what an improvement! I found out why stringing a portion of an old string through all of the new ball ends is a very good idea - on those hamers the octaves go through the same hole and it can be daunting to get the ball ends all in line....

Setting intonation on the hamer is no easy task either as you must continually loosen the strings to be able to fit the allen wrench in!
 
#89
IvanMike said:
just put on the SIT nickel and what an improvement! I found out why stringing a portion of an old string through all of the new ball ends is a very good idea - on those hamers the octaves go through the same hole and it can be daunting to get the ball ends all in line....

Setting intonation on the hamer is no easy task either as you must continually loosen the strings to be able to fit the allen wrench in!
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On the bright side, the intonation shouldn't need much adjustment if you stick with one type of strings. I've found the Waterstone 12-string sets a little inconsistent from set to set.

BTW, what do the SITs sound like? I've been curious to try them. Generally, I prefer a roundwound piano-like tone. How about tension?
 
#90
12bass said:
On the bright side, the intonation shouldn't need much adjustment if you stick with one type of strings. I've found the Waterstone 12-string sets a little inconsistent from set to set.

BTW, what do the SITs sound like? I've been curious to try them. Generally, I prefer a roundwound piano-like tone. How about tension?
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they sound really good - they're a tad on the light side so the tension is a bit less, but they are still quite piano like. the somewhat smaller gauge makes it easier to play. A lot of cats on the 12 string website seem to dig them - if anything they seem to be the favorite strings on the site. I haven't tried the steels - that will be the next change (hopefully not for a while!). The tension isn't night and day however - a bit easier on the fretting hand, but not super loose (i abhor floppy tension - even to the point of hating to tune to Eb like i do on my 4 in my main band). The 18 octave strings on the G make the twang less annoying - a big improvement over the standard 20s. Just strings has the list of the gauges if you're interested. A cheap set too - really no different than buying a quality 4 string set when you buy then online as opposed to shelling out 25 in a store.

the ball ends are all standard BG size - which is also nice, and the strings come individually packaged with the gauges on them - even each octave is in its own envelope.
 
#91
Thanks for the detailed info, IvanMike. Will see if I can try a steel set. I switched to 0.018" G-strings years ago, as they sound/feel more balanced with the rest of the courses. Wound Gs worked on my short-scale B12S, but won't take the increased tension on 34" scale instruments. The wound G-strings blend better, IMO, as they sound more like the other strings. With the Waterstones sets, I've been using bass ball ends to keep the small octave ends in place.
 
#92
12bass said:
Thanks for the detailed info, IvanMike. Will see if I can try a steel set. I switched to 0.018" G-strings years ago, as they sound/feel more balanced with the rest of the courses. Wound Gs worked on my short-scale B12S, but won't take the increased tension on 34" scale instruments. The wound G-strings blend better, IMO, as they sound more like the other strings. With the Waterstones sets, I've been using bass ball ends to keep the small octave ends in place.
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the SIT 18 octaves are really cool - a big improvement over the 20s
 
#93
IvanMike said:
the SIT 18 octaves are really cool - a big improvement over the 20s
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Duh, I said that already.

Got a few chances to gig this thing out -very impressive on Piece of my heart, whole lotta love, rock & roll (LZ, not LR), and big huge wins on hey hey my my and badge (with the bass playing the end part rather than guitar - too sick for words)
 
#94
 
#97
Bassmunnky said:
I'm In...I love it. Waterstone TP12. Use it for 70% of the set..easier to play than I thought and certainly worth having for the shows. Going to the 5 string for the other songs feels 'naked'!
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I always loved the look of your Waterstone TP 12 string bass! Is that a cherry burst finish?

Mine is the green MOTS top, I love it!
 
#100
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I have a question...

I recently sold my CH-12, since my Waterstone TP-12 is doing all of the work for me now. The buyer asked about the preamp... Is there a way to cut the overall gain? I never noticed anything although I never ran any boost on the bass at all.

Oh, do I have to post a pic? Okay...

Gratuitous pose...

ImageUploadedByTalkBass1385830792.005449.jpg
 
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