Winter 2017 Build Off - Speak of the Devil

Re: Masking the fret slots

Get some 0.020" thick aluminum or brass or steel sheet stock from the hobby shop, or shim stock from a metal supplier. Cut some strips about 1/2" wide. You may even be able to get 1/2" x 0.020" brass strip stock at the hobby shop. Cut them into lengths maybe 3" long.

Have them ready as you start the pour. Pour the epoxy mix in and let it settle out. Then place the metal strips in the fret slots. Maybe set a board across the top of them to make sure they don't lift up. After the epoxy has cured, yank them out with pliers. You'll still need to run a saw through the slots to clean them up, but at least the slots will be there.

Yeah, it would have been better to cut the slots after pouring the inlays. That's how we did the Rockit fingerboards.

Yeah, next fretboard, I'll cut the inlay *before* the fret slots. I had hoped the think aluminum sheet I have from the hobby store would work, but it's just too thick to fit in the slot, and it was the thinnest they had. They carry brass sheets so I'm hoping they'll have something thinner.

Thanks for the tips about the epoxy pour. I should be able to get to it this weekend.

I know nothing about cutting fret slots but, couldn't you just re-cut the slots after the fill?

Yes, but it's easier to cut the slots when the fretboard is still a rectangle so it can be placed in the miter box to guide the fret saw. Doing it freehand, even with part of the fret slot already previously cut, is a bit more difficult.
 
Here's a crazy idea. What about using removable (bathroom) caulk just at the point where the fret slot and the inlay meet? That should hold back any filler (once the caulk has dried) and then be easy to remove. Maybe? You might even have a tube around the house that you could use to experiment with on some scrap wood.
 
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I think it would be pretty hard to get the caulk out of the slot once the epoxy cured. I like the metal strips the best so far. I'll see what the hobby store has.

In the mean time, I did a test pour of the epoxy on a test board. Pardon my freehand routing.

test1.jpg


I like the smaller strips where I just poured some clear, and used that nail to dip into the colored epoxy, and streaked it. The sparkle was disappointing. I think at least one more test is warranted.
 
I don't think there will be enough room for crinkly tinfoil inside the cavities we cut...
But some kind of base coat would be cool.
Would need to make sure whatever it is will be compatible with the epoxy you pour in after though.... so that you don't wind up creating a "cold joint" of sorts affecting the bond between the epoxy & the wood.
Maybe pour /paint in a thin layer of epoxy first with some pearl dust mixed in, then a top layer with the different shades of red?
I haven't used west systems epoxy though, can it be thinned so that a pearlescent powder additive doesn't turn it into a gloppy mess that wouldn't flow out flat...?
Just thinking out loud here...
Good luck with it.

That's what I was thinking, maybe a layer of epoxy or polyester casting resin with a high concentration of silver mica pearl. I made some pen blanks like that so I can take a photo when I get home so yall can get an idea of what it looks like. I might be home tomorrow, I've been staying with my parents while recovering from a minor surgery.
 
I think it would be pretty hard to get the caulk out of the slot once the epoxy cured. I like the metal strips the best so far. I'll see what the hobby store has.

In the mean time, I did a test pour of the epoxy on a test board. Pardon my freehand routing.

View attachment 1029238

I like the smaller strips where I just poured some clear, and used that nail to dip into the colored epoxy, and streaked it. The sparkle was disappointing. I think at least one more test is warranted.

You may consider a polyester casting resin in place of epoxy. I have found that it has less tendencies to get bubbles trapped, dries harder and shrinks less than the epoxies I have used.
 
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And a few more parts came in.

parts.jpg


Aluminum stiffening rods for the neck through, along with the bridge and jack plates.

That looks time consuming. I'd take that to a trophy shop and let them engrave it. You gonna paint it or leave it frosted?

Yes, over an hour. I can engrave it with the laser cutter. I think I'll leave it frosted, maybe even side light it with red LED's.
 
I took a break from the epoxy (or poly casting resin) pour and worked on this:

View attachment 1030045

Pickup cover, etched into clear plexi.

Watching this build with great interest, as with all your builds. As for the pickup cover -- my thought is, not to "over-egg the pudding", as the Brits say. You don't want too many different flashy design elements clamoring for attention. My 2 cents, etc. Regardless - fantastic build!
 
So I just got back from laser class. During the class, someone asked how to use a file they created. I offered to supply a file and a piece of wood for "demonstration" purposes.

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We did one normal, one reversed. I think I'll go with the etched pickup cover. Perhaps the etched and lit plexi was overdoing it. I think I'll use the "regular" side for the neck-thru pickup cover, unless the Delano pickup doesn't show up on time.
 
2nd pour test results:

2i1o6zq.jpg


fo3vxs.jpg


I poured the casting resin last night. It's still tacky this morning. I'm not sure if it's the mix I got wrong, or the cool temps, but I don't like that it hasn't fully cured. The color streaks, which I thought would emulate flames, coalesced into just a trans red. I guess the streaks just spread out as the resin cured. The mica powder with red tips looks ok, though the mica in the casting resin - the mica seems to settle a bit to the bottom, unlike the epoxy/mica mix which stays well mixed during the cure.

Casting resin mixed with both color and mica looks ok, but also seems to settle out during cure. I'm over the sparkles. It looks like a child's scrap book. It's not too bad under the epoxy mix with a dusting of mica - the right most bottom pic, but I think I'm going with either epoxy with both mica powder and color mixed in, or epoxy with mica powder and just color the tips of the flames red. The entire flame inlay all red may be too much for me. I'll think about it for a while.